Wood Worm in Wickes Firedoors

JessThePlasterer said:
@imago
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Can you get one where the roof meets the back wall of the house?

It's a shallow pitch, so the lead should be two bricks above the point the roof meets the wall. If I've got my bearings right then the damp patch on the ceiling is on the opposite side to the back door at the furthest end from the house. If water's getting in at the joint between the house and the extension then that's where it would run to. It looks like the gutter joint just to your side of the soil stack vent is gobbed up with sealant or mastic, if that's leaking or overflowing then it'll put loads of water down at that point when it rains.

Does the soil stack run down through the extension roof? If so, have a look at the collar and joint where it goes into the roof.
 
Builderboi said:
They pitch looks way too shallow to me
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I thought that at first, but I think it's the photo. It rises 8 courses and is 19 courses long as far as I can see. So that's 640 mm lift along a 4,560 mm run (imperial bricks so 85 mm by 240 mm inc a 10 mm joint) which is 23 degrees or there abouts.
 
imago said:
Can you get one where the roof meets the back wall of the house?

It's a shallow pitch, so the lead should be two bricks above the point the roof meets the wall. If I've got my bearings right then the damp patch on the ceiling is on the opposite side to the back door at the furthest end from the house. If water's getting in at the joint between the house and the extension then that's where it would run to. It looks like the gutter joint just to your side of the soil stack vent is gobbed up with sealant or mastic, if that's leaking or overflowing then it'll put loads of water down at that point when it rains.

Does the soil stack run down through the extension roof? If so, have a look at the collar and joint where it goes into the roof.
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I'll take a pic when I'm home. The overhang of the tiles is ok now, it was all wrong on the old roof. That's interesting g though about the lead being two bricks up, I can't remember off the top of my head. Thanks a lot I really appreciate that
 
It happens on furniture to. As I understand they fly off and that's it. Gone. You can fill holes or replace. No reasonable way to test wood coming from the 4 corners of the world. It's wood. It happens. It's nature. They should swap though if that's what you want but not really anyone's fault.
 
imago said:
I thought that at first, but I think it's the photo. It rises 8 courses and is 19 courses long as far as I can see. So that's 640 mm lift along a 4,560 mm run (imperial bricks so 85 mm by 240 mm inc a 10 mm joint) which is 23 degrees or there abouts.
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And that My dear Watson is elementary!
 

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JessThePlasterer said:
@imago
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The lead is a brick too low, and the pointing is fcuked around the two bricks below the overflow outlet. Any water near that will go over the lead, into the pointing gaps and down into the roof.

Sort the pointing out, and replace the lead with a wider run. (y)
 
:numberone:
imago said:
The lead is a brick too low, and the pointing is fcuked around the two bricks below the overflow outlet. Any water near that will go over the lead, into the pointing gaps and down into the roof.

Sort the pointing out, and replace the lead with a wider run. (y)
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Cheers bud I will give that a go, been driving me insane!! Thanks for your time :numberone:
 
Right ok so at some point on Sunday if weather good I'll be back up on the roof with ladders to gutter and re pointing. Si is definitely making me a roast! And hopefully that'll be the end of it! If I'm not sat on my arse, brew in hand, reading my book the following weekend I'm gonna have a nose bleed!
 
JessThePlasterer said:
@imago
Click to expand...
JessThePlasterer said:
@imago
Click to expand...
JessThePlasterer said:
@imago
Click to expand...

When flashing was set at top of roof did you point it in or use leadmate? Either way if pointed did you make sure compo went all the way to back of joint ditto for leadmate, if not rake out and redo also the shoolower the pitch of your roof the more lead you need covering the top slate 150mm is a minimum. does the lead on that gulley go back up to and over the first lathe ? If not it wold be better if it did. T.here also seems to be very little pitch on the roof so the gauge of the riles could be too small and allowing driving rain up and over tiles.. To give you an idea of what I mean look at your neighbours roof directly opposite and look how many rows of slates there are.
 
raggles said:
When flashing was set at top of roof did you point it in or use leadmate? Either way if pointed did you make sure compo went all the way to back of joint ditto for leadmate, if not rake out and redo also the shoolower the pitch of your roof the more lead you need covering the top slate 150mm is a minimum. does the lead on that gulley go back up to and over the first lathe ? If not it wold be better if it did. T.here also seems to be very little pitch on the roof so the gauge of the riles could be too small and allowing driving rain up and over tiles.. To give you an idea of what I mean look at your neighbours roof directly opposite and look how many rows of slates there are.
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Hey, the flashing at top is lead mate pushed in. Lead at the bottom does go to the first lath. That's originally where we thought the problem lay because the gulley was pretty much flat to the roof and water was filling the gulley and spilling straight in. so we raised the lath all the way up and re leaded it. Think there's was a couple of problems and we've fixed one but I'll def check the mortar and gutter. The overhang was also crap but we adjusted it :)
 
If the architrave @stuart23 is oak....the trouble might be a tiny little oak weevil prevalent in European oak. With all timber eating bugs the secret to get rid is to have dry stable timber / atmosphere. They cannot survive in or digest dry timber. Our homes are full of bugs and spores but they need the absolute best condition to thrive. E.g. Dry rot need moist / damp conditions to work, but spores are in the atmosphere all around us.
Any chemical treatment placed upon the timber surface only work when the bug, that can live up to 5 years inside the timber, emerges as an adult. It ingests the chemical and dies thus breaking the cycle of life. As the bug reaches adult it needs to get out of the timber it's in, and find some more, we use that need to kill it, but, you might still see holes appearing as the bugs mature.
 
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