Tyrolean Render Repair

Share this page

Status
Not open for further replies.
N

noodles

New Member
Hi,

Calling out to any experienced tyroleaners out there!

I have some extensive repairs to be done to the walls of my house, I am competent at plastering and have used S&C with great results before but have not dealt with external rendering/ tyrolean repairs before.

The house appears to have 2 coat S&C render with a tyrolean finish. I dont know if the tyrolean is just S&C flicked on or a prebagged mix, I believe it was done in the 20's but may be wrong. It has had many windows blocked up and new windows cut out because of a layout change inside, there are a few thin cracks and a couple of places where the render sounds hollow and will be removed.

I do not have the funds to remove all the render and start again, also half of the house is hundreds of years old and the brickwork is very poor and removing the render really damages the bricks underneath. Therefore I would like to patch and leave any sound render on the wall.

I have a plan that I would like you to cast your eyes over and some questions:

1. Remove any unsound render.
2. Remove any render that is curving out too high, eg at edges where old windows were.
3. Power wash all old render and apply masony biocide to remove lichen etc.
4. Cut out any cracks back to brickwork to about 30mm wide
5. Render all areas removed and patched to 5mm below existing tyrolean surface (scratch coat 4-1 with waterproofer, top coat 5-1 no waterproofer)
6. Tyrolean patched areas level with existing tyrolean (existing tyrolean masked off)
7. Tyrolean over the whole walls
8. Paint

Questions

1. Could this be achieved by one person with a tower and cherrypicker or do you think it will be too much???
2. Do i need to render the patches to 5mm below existing and tyrolean them flush or can it work just as well rendering flush as the whole aspect will be tyroleaned anyway. My thinking is if the 'base' that the tyrolean is to be sprayed onto is similar the more likely you will not be able to see where the patches were, correct me if I am wrong.
3. The only tyrolean guns that the hire shops seem to do are the hand operated ones, ive seen guns with a hopper and compressor that I think would be far more suitable for someone working on their own, can these be hired or do i need to buy the gun (refina etc) and just hire the compressor, can anyone recommend a decent gun?
4. This is quite important: can tyrolean (or a s&c mix) be fired onto existing tyrolean or does it need the tyrolean 'voids' filling first maybe with a roller dipped in the mix (or will this just fall off?) or can you just fire it straight onto existing tyrolean (would the voids then be filled?)
5. Is there a technique to rebuilding the reveals where the wall has been cut for a new window, obviously you cannot use angle beads. I had difficulty last time trying to shape them, I assume there is a trick that is known but I dont know it!!
6. I have one patch needing approx 2" deep render, how do I takle this? Do i screw mesh to the wall, render, allow to harden, screw mesh and render again?
7. Do i need to use stainless steel mesh for this purpose as I believe the waterprooofer attacks galvanised mesh. Same for the bellcast beads.
8. I am used to building up screeds and levelling off those with a straight edge when plastering internally but that is not done externally, how do you level off? with a derby or straight edge? at different angles, fill gaps etc, then when its going off rub up with a float (devil?, cant see point but asking anyway)? I assume that surface once dry is ready for the tyrolean and a sponge rub is not required?
9. Can you knock up your own tyrolean mix as I see cullamix is damn expensive, if so what mix is best?

To anyone who replies thanks in advance, it is really appreciated


Link Removed Link Removed Link Removed Link Removed Link Removed
Link Removed
Link Removed


​
​
 
tyrolean blends in to exsisting work well.
tyrolean first appeared in uk in the early 60s. you need the hand held machine for this type of work. why not get a quote from a plasterer who knows what he is doing it would be cheaper in the long run .
the questions you ask sounds like you need a step by step guide.
there is bound to be someone on here that works in your area that can help you.
 
Thankyou for the replies

Right ok, I dont have the funds to totally redo the house from scratch, if I did of course that would be the way forward, my post was long, I just wanted to know exactly what to do. Anyway if I ask a couple of quick questions to get me on my way I would be very grateful for some help.

1. Can tyrolean be applied directly onto a previously tyroleaned surface that has been fully cleaned?
2. If I was to use a through colour render onto the previously tyroleaned surface do you roller it on first (to get a depth of colour) then use the machine?
3. How do you provide a key on smooth brick before rendering?
4. Is a sand and cement mix for tyrolean a no no?

Many Thanks
 
It's not an easy surface to patch or replicate because of the original application i.e. "flicker gun"
If you've never done a tyrolean job before try and get a guy in who has, it'll save you a load of messing about and you can see how it's done? :-)
 
noodles said:
Thankyou for the replies

Right ok, I dont have the funds to totally redo the house from scratch, if I did of course that would be the way forward, my post was long, I just wanted to know exactly what to do. Anyway if I ask a couple of quick questions to get me on my way I would be very grateful for some help.

1. Can tyrolean be applied directly onto a previously tyroleaned surface that has been fully cleaned?
2. If I was to use a through colour render onto the previously tyroleaned surface do you roller it on first (to get a depth of colour) then use the machine?
3. How do you provide a key on smooth brick before rendering?
4. Is a sand and cement mix for tyrolean a no no?

Many Thanks
Click to expand...

1, yes, it is better if the render has high suction for tyrolean, spray a coat on to the render if it hangs wet leave it for a while to dry then spray another coat , leave and spray again till you match the existing pattern.,
2, from your photo, your tyrolean is dirty and you will never match the colour. there are different companys producing cullamix therefore different colours. yours tyrolean looks an early example therefore i would guess it was made by blue circle.
3, apply a coat of sbr to the brickwork, apply scratchcoat before the sbr dries out. it is better to put extra lime into your render coat to produce the high suction. we spray the same day that we render, but everyone works differently.
4,a sand, cement and lime, mixed very wet, is your best bet, you are never going to match the original colour, so the whole exterior will need to be decorated.
 
Get a few old bits of ply and a tyrolean gun and practice until you've found a texture you're happy with. You'll need to find the right thickness for your mix, as well as the distance and angle/s you hold the tyrolean gun from the wall :RpS_thumbup:
 
Hi

This is where I am at now, power washed and will have a biocide applied.
Tyrolean Render Repair
[/IMG]
Tyrolean Render Repair
[/IMG]
Tyrolean Render Repair
[/IMG]
Taking for example the gable end wall, it has a crack in the render a blown area and some blockwork that needs patching. Is this basically correct.

1. Cut crack back to brickwork approx 30mm wide and remove blown render
2. Render removed areas and blockwork
3. Tyrolean entire gable end directly over existing tyrolean and repairs

Questions:

1. Do you render cracks in the normal way or do you need some kind of resin?
2. Would you just render the repairs flush with the existing tyrolean surface or render to approx 5mm below, mask off and tyrolean the repair then tyrolean over everything again (My thinking is that if this was not done the repair would be seen as there would be two different bases that the final tyrolean would be applied to?

Thanks in advance
 
Hi

Cheers for helping me, after cleaning I can see the whole house has a coloured tyrolean that is a mustard colour. I want it to have a cream colour finish. Could say cream cullamix just be fired straight over the mustard tyrolean with the flicker gun? I read somewhere (dont know where) about rollering the mix on then using the flicker gun, is this right or does it just go straight on? Im thinking it makes sense as you would get a nice even deep colour??? What would you do in this situation?

Also can you achieve similar textures with cullamix and s&c with the flicker gun? I did the chimney after repairing it with a s&c mix and the flicker gun but just couldnt get a very fine texture like whats on the walls already?

Cheers again
 
on the front of the property there are a lot of straight joints these will crack through you finished coat. the bell drip has a jump in it. this work needs to be done by a contractor to give your house a quality finish
to do a crack repair cut off render 6" either side of crack, cut out crack in brickwork to about half the thickness of the brick, fill crack with fischer resin using a resin gun fit em lath to the area that you have cut off with screws and washers, render and spray area.
just tryolean your repairs not the whole wall, then paint the whole building to colour that you require.
the sand and cement that you sprayed on your chimney was mixed to thick .add more water the mix it does need to be very wet.
 
Hi

Right ok, the front aspect needs taking back to brick and redoing, I am still going to have to tackle this on my own with just one labourer tho. The brickwork below is very old and will be a right state when the render is removed. Can I run this by you:

1. Remove render.
2. Dub out using s&c (4-1?)
3. Apply rend aid to whole aspect and bed in render mesh (or just do where there a change of materials? (blockwork to brick etc, at corners?)
4. Scratch coat 4-1 with water proofer
5. Top coat 4-1-1 with lime or should it be 5-1-1
6. Tyrolean when the render has dried.

Does that sound right? I know a whole aspect should be rendered in one go, now what if you cant, will the render crack along the line of where you finished the one day and started the next? is there a technique you can use to get around this problem? I really apologise for asking so many questions just want to get it right, I think I am really close to knowing what to do!!!!

Thanks again
 
Jbeesy718 said:
Looks like you've had the pro's is for the roof why not the render?
Click to expand...

Thats put a smile on my face! I did the roof having never done one before either with no help, at one point all you could see from our kitchen and dining room downstairs were the stars above, very therapeutic, but quite chilly in the winter I found!!:RpS_laugh:
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top