Recent content by rt88

That’s the way we normally do over insulation. Although over mineral wool we find leaving the first coat overnight is better

With some systems we do like krend and weatherby etc where the basecoat gets floated. This one is a sto system which just gets finished with a spat. We’ve found the thinner the last pass is the easier it is to achieve this. To be honest being up in Scotland sto suits us better as you can be...

Definitely I’m not moaning in the slightest, I was just more curious to know what the projects we where on are worth etc, didn’t realise there was as much money involved if they could nearly double a rate instantly over a phone call. At only 28 you never know what the future holds and knowing...

Been doing thin coat systems predominantly for the better part of 2 years now and when on pricework we have always been happy and earned well. Especially being books in and have a van fuel card holidays etc. Normally when we go onto block work it’s 10mm of basecoat in 2 passes is the spec. We...

We had one of the polish squads in our work do a dryvit job, think the topcoat is 0.8 someone mentioned. It looks horrendous, every single bit where the basecoat wasn’t perfectly flat looked like a bald spot/miss

We left it overnight to scratch back in the morning, think the wind got to it, so can’t really give a fair review on it as we had the ibars screaming at us but got there in the end

Heck ED the topcoat was wetherby supplied. If it’s on top of their k+a adhesive base coat they say you don’t have to prime. Our boss can be over the top in terms of primers, bonding agents, stress patches etc when they are not specified. So he also got the primer, older boy that works with us...

Although we did do an Aldi with heck/wetherby with their additive and it was still not fully gone after 2 days

We have been using the sto qs topcoat on our sites since early October and have only had 1 wash off, think the gear is pricey though

For sure, that's 80 percent of the work we do. It's the clients preference for this job. Looking on webers site this is exactly what this product is designed for and can also be used for dry dash, ashlar and a roughcast finish.

Has anyone got any experience using this monocuche on mineral wool? The boarding we are going over isn't the best and we have been told by our boss to bed the mesh In the first pass, leave it overnight then go back next day and carry on as normal. Every weber spec I've seen says to do the 2...

Yes thats what I mean quotes are for labour + materials, so price of materials doesn't come into it as its the customer who pays for them. I also only ever used bagged wet dash and found the job not so bad. Then went to give an older plasterer a hand one weekend and he had 2 cement mixers doing...

I've been plastering 8/9 years now and up here in Scotland we still dry dash loads. I've never used anything but a bagged dashed reciever, mostly white or buff colour. Some of the cheaper brands are only £6 a bag and you can cover 2m2 with them. Customer pays for materials anyway.

When going over blockwork we leave a gap for mastic, when going over insulation we use a bead from sto that acts as the mastic line. Sure they are called perfect seal beads. The ones you attach the window protection to then they snap off

The company we work for always want the reveals with a stop bead against the window. We don't mind it as it doubles the linear metre price for beading each window.