A GUIDE TO DOT & DABBING

kirk is right they used to teach you at bg to dot out they used a black pad you pushed into the dot and line them thru
 
grand wizard said:
kirk is right they used to teach you at bg to dot out they used a black pad you pushed into the dot and line them thru
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thank you grand ;) i did try to tell them that it was a slow old fashioned way but it was an easy way for a newbi to get a good result, but they wouldn't have it
 
firm we used to work for sent a load of lads on the bg training and thats how they taught em . i think they done it for a day, then started doin it the easy way.lol
 
so you put the spacers into the muck and you push back to 10mm ???? what the f uck happens when the wall is running out 30mm over 3 meters?????
 
you put a spacer in top left corner then one in top right then string line thru and place intermeadiate dots where needed then plumb bottom ones of these
 
could someone give me a guide price for 250 mtr of dot & dab please I know theres a differance in the country variants at the moment it purley for guidance
 
miloman1 said:
could someone give me a guide price for 250 mtr of dot & dab please I know theres a differance in the country variants at the moment it purley for guidance
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Sorry we do not discuss prices on the open forums any more.

It just causes arguments and also its not always good for the general public to read.

Danny
 
miloman1 said:
could someone give me a guide price for 250 mtr of dot & dab please I know theres a differance in the country variants at the moment it purley for guidance
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60 quid a sheet, or give them a mr jass price..... First name Hugh?
 
Most lads on here/and elsewhere get told what thier getting paid.(day/price).!!!!!

I dont understand why everyone doing there own thing (when they can)
Sorts their own price out ?

2015 prices are dire.
£200/£250 is an average wage or should be for a decent man willing to service his trade.
 
There's another version of the dots I've come across; put screws straight into the blockwork, no plugs.
You can move them in or out until they're right, and/or tie the chalk line to it to set the level of the rest. Came across this when some cowboys fixed fireline to a fireplace wall with expanded foam.

I confess - I also used this once, to guarantee the air gap that Andy mentioned, behind vermiculite boards inside a fireplace.
 
Brimstone said:
There's another version of the dots I've come across; put screws straight into the blockwork, no plugs.
You can move them in or out until they're right, and/or tie the chalk line to it to set the level of the rest. Came across this when some cowboys fixed fireline to a fireplace wall with expanded foam.

I confess - I also used this once, to guarantee the air gap that Andy mentioned, behind vermiculite boards inside a fireplace.
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Old thread mate , welcome new member when I read the op I thought I'd found someone madder than me buy you'll do if you can tell me about foam dabbing
 
Ah, no I meant I used the screw trick not f'ckn foam - in my case I used 1300C high temp mastic.

But yes, there are some foamers out there, mainly bodging builders/board subbies. Couple of big screws or nails right thru' to stop it pushing the board off until its set, then get some skim over it. Saw a Building Control guy actually requesting it on one site "so that smoke and fire does not get thru" unquote.
 
Brimstone said:
Ah, no I meant I used the screw trick not f'ckn foam - in my case I used 1300C high temp mastic.

But yes, there are some foamers out there, mainly bodging builders/board subbies. Couple of big screws or nails right thru' to stop it pushing the board off until its set, then get some skim over it. Saw a Building Control guy actually requesting it on one site "so that smoke and fire does not get thru" unquote.
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Did a house in wales Addy DND BC came and I asked how many fire fixings ( got my own method ) , he looked at me puzzled , unsure of what I was talking about and replied " oh yeah, sounds OK to me " , only 5 years ago , another world in them valley's
 
I remember those black pads that @Gibbo mentioned they had small holes in them so you could bed them into the adhesive. Did a course back in 1989 and that was BG spec.
 
A GUIDE TO DOT & DABBING
Customer wanted solid boarded wall .close as he was getting.
 
Danny said:
Tut tut no continuous bead around tops and bottoms and round boxes... thought you would know better
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When I rocked up on job bloke had a tiling trowel and wanted to to put dot on solid like I was tiling .
As for sockets it bust round em any way so I had to fill so it is solid lol
 
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