A GUIDE TO DOT & DABBING

beader said:
Why didn't you just float the walls.?
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Exactly what I said . Builder said it's to be boarded even though customer wanted solid walls. We did do one wall . The one that joined the house as the blocks were in line with the f**k**g plaster. Crazy
 
John j said:
Exactly what I said . Builder said it's to be boarded even though customer wanted solid walls. We did do one wall . The one that joined the house as the blocks were in line with the fkg plaster. Crazy
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Could of recommended Habito boards which are more dense and less flexible than standard boards . Would of saved on all that adhesive.
 
its just a guide for newbies andy, and all you have to do is bring the dots in about 6'' and do you solid dab around them, oh and this 10mm gap is virtually impossible because nearly every block wall i have dabbed is out at least 20mm so if you practice this 10mm shyte then your walls will be all over the show.
 
Look Up Raising Arizona GIF
 
spiceagent11 said:
its just a guide for newbies andy, and all you have to do is bring the dots in about 6'' and do you solid dab around them, oh and this 10mm gap is virtually impossible because nearly every block wall i have dabbed is out at least 20mm so if you practice this 10mm shyte then your walls will be all over the show....
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No reply?
 
kirk johnstone said:
Although allot of plasterers still use the term 'dot & dabbing' this method of plaster boarding is nearly extinct. on building sites across the country nearly every plasterer will be just dabbing without the use of dots because it is much, much faster and an experienced plasterer will also be able to get a wall perfect without dots.
now for a beginner dots will help allot. all they basically are is little bits of plasterboard or wood cut at 2" squares, these a set on the wall with plaster, in line with each other and level. they are set about 1ft apart from each other and once the dots are set you will put dabs of plaster in between them and then put your plasterboard in place and push it back so that the board makes contact with all the dots behind it leaving you with a straight level wall.

now to set the dots it is quite simple, the easiest way is to snap a line across the ceiling with a chalk line about 2" away from the brick/block work. mix some adhesive and put a row of dabs about 1ft apart just under the ceiling line, then take your ready made dots and push them into the adhesive, push them all back until they are in line with the chalkline. be sure the dots sit flat and no adhesive is bulging around them as it will stop the board from touching the dot once set.
now let all the dots set then put a dab of adhesive below each dot at the bottom of the wall. sit the dots in the adhesive and with the use of a long spirit level, sit one end of the level on the top dot and push the bottom dot back until it is level, do this with every dot in the row. you should now have a row of dots at the top and bottom of the wall that are all straight and level with each other. let the bottom dots set and then put some dabs of adhesive in between the top and bottom dots, space your dabs about 1ft apart, place the dots in the adhesive and use your level to push them back until your level touches the top and bottom dots. now once complete you should have a wall covered in little dots all about 1ft apart, let these all set then all you have to do now is put a dab of adhesive in between each dot and put your plasterboards in place pushing them back to the dots. if you have taken your time your wall will be spot on.

a few extra things to remember are to pack your boards off the floor and also make sure no dots or dabs are touching the floor as this can cause problems with damp, make sure all your boards are white side out and make sure you have sufficient dots cut and your plaster boards cut before mixing the adhesive.

have fun ;)
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I beleive this to be correct.

A good mate I worked with from 1977 and 1988 (he`s now 83yrs.) told me, nearly every time we rendered a wall, that the old timers would `dot` the walls with small pieces of batton, top to bottom bedded on to blobs of mortar and leveled across all points, when these were set enough they would render the wall, then using a streight edge skim off the high spot`s and make up the low ones until the wall was flat all over, remove the wooden blocks and fill the holes, finishing the render using a board and plaster skim the next day.
A perfect wall every time.
 
kirk johnstone said:
Although allot of plasterers still use the term 'dot & dabbing' this method of plaster boarding is nearly extinct. on building sites across the country nearly every plasterer will be just dabbing without the use of dots because it is much, much faster and an experienced plasterer will also be able to get a wall perfect without dots.
now for a beginner dots will help allot. all they basically are is little bits of plasterboard or wood cut at 2" squares, these a set on the wall with plaster, in line with each other and level. they are set about 1ft apart from each other and once the dots are set you will put dabs of plaster in between them and then put your plasterboard in place and push it back so that the board makes contact with all the dots behind it leaving you with a straight level wall.

now to set the dots it is quite simple, the easiest way is to snap a line across the ceiling with a chalk line about 2" away from the brick/block work. mix some adhesive and put a row of dabs about 1ft apart just under the ceiling line, then take your ready made dots and push them into the adhesive, push them all back until they are in line with the chalkline. be sure the dots sit flat and no adhesive is bulging around them as it will stop the board from touching the dot once set.
now let all the dots set then put a dab of adhesive below each dot at the bottom of the wall. sit the dots in the adhesive and with the use of a long spirit level, sit one end of the level on the top dot and push the bottom dot back until it is level, do this with every dot in the row. you should now have a row of dots at the top and bottom of the wall that are all straight and level with each other. let the bottom dots set and then put some dabs of adhesive in between the top and bottom dots, space your dabs about 1ft apart, place the dots in the adhesive and use your level to push them back until your level touches the top and bottom dots. now once complete you should have a wall covered in little dots all about 1ft apart, let these all set then all you have to do now is put a dab of adhesive in between each dot and put your plasterboards in place pushing them back to the dots. if you have taken your time your wall will be spot on.

a few extra things to remember are to pack your boards off the floor and also make sure no dots or dabs are touching the floor as this can cause problems with damp, make sure all your boards are white side out and make sure you have sufficient dots cut and your plaster boards cut before mixing the adhesive.

have fun ;)
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Thanks for letting us know.

@essexandy benefit greatly from this post
 
Mendit said:
I beleive this to be correct.

A good mate I worked with from 1977 and 1988 (he`s now 83yrs.) told me, nearly every time we rendered a wall, that the old timers would `dot` the walls with small pieces of batton, top to bottom bedded on to blobs of mortar and leveled across all points, when these were set enough they would render the wall, then using a streight edge skim off the high spot`s and make up the low ones until the wall was flat all over, remove the wooden blocks and fill the holes, finishing the render using a board and plaster skim the next day.
A perfect wall every time.
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Used to call the wood battens ‘grounds’
 
Mendit said:
I beleive this to be correct.

A good mate I worked with from 1977 and 1988 (he`s now 83yrs.) told me, nearly every time we rendered a wall, that the old timers would `dot` the walls with small pieces of batton, top to bottom bedded on to blobs of mortar and leveled across all points, when these were set enough they would render the wall, then using a streight edge skim off the high spot`s and make up the low ones until the wall was flat all over, remove the wooden blocks and fill the holes, finishing the render using a board and plaster skim the next day.
A perfect wall every time.
Click to expand...
Never seen it done but I believe you are correct. I have old plastering books where this is described. (y)
 
A guide to dot and dabbing provides invaluable insights into a popular painting technique. Whether exploring art or cosmetics, mastering the art of controlled application enhances precision and creativity. This comprehensive guide ensures both novices and enthusiasts can achieve stunning results in various creative endeavors with confidence.
 
tyler92 said:
A guide to dot and dabbing provides invaluable insights into a popular painting technique. Whether exploring art or cosmetics, mastering the art of controlled application enhances precision and creativity. This comprehensive guide ensures both novices and enthusiasts can achieve stunning results in various creative endeavors with confidence.
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Sold !!! Where do I sign ? :)
 
tyler92 said:
A guide to dot and dabbing provides invaluable insights into a popular painting technique. Whether exploring art or cosmetics, mastering the art of controlled application enhances precision and creativity. This comprehensive guide ensures both novices and enthusiasts can achieve stunning results in various creative endeavors with confidence.
Click to expand...


Crack?
 
spiceagent11 said:
its just a guide for newbies andy, and all you have to do is bring the dots in about 6'' and do you solid dab around them, oh and this 10mm gap is virtually impossible because nearly every block wall i have dabbed is out at least 20mm so if you practice this 10mm shyte then your walls will be all over the show.
Click to expand...
No reply??
 
tyler92 said:
A guide to dot and dabbing provides invaluable insights into a popular painting technique. Whether exploring art or cosmetics, mastering the art of controlled application enhances precision and creativity. This comprehensive guide ensures both novices and enthusiasts can achieve stunning results in various creative endeavors with confidence.
Click to expand...
A GUIDE TO DOT & DABBING
 
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