theclemo
Private Member
Yes I do that to. I just find that hardwall don't rule as flat as sand and cement. And floating the hardwall I find the float just glides over it.
A GUIDE TO FLOATING WALLS
- Thread starter kirk johnstone
- Start date
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if high suction we 2 coat hardwall, first coat kills suction, lay on 2nd coat and rule in, we use a featheredge rule, a lot of plasterers use a darby.
if low suction, may put the room on before i start to rule, then check to make sure it has not slumped.
we leave the hardwall pull in, then with a light spray of water devil up with a diamond float.
Cornelius
Well-Known Member
What size darby? Surely not a standard 1.2, I've got a 1.8, 2.0 and a 2.4 for floating and normal 1.2 for external rendering.
H sections are popular, some use Darby's. we use a lightweight featheredge.
Dynamite-Kid
Member
A very well described guide on dot / screed. For what it's worth I still use this method to this day when the walls have to be within the millimetre.
For accurate work this method when done right can not be beaten. I don't often use it these days due to time constraints but for high class work I believe this method can not be beaten.
And fair play to the poster for an accurate description, proper text book.
For accurate work this method when done right can not be beaten. I don't often use it these days due to time constraints but for high class work I believe this method can not be beaten.
And fair play to the poster for an accurate description, proper text book.
I still use the same old fashioned method when I was an apprentice the box screed method i put my vertical and horizontal screeds on first level them off then fill in the middle and level that off job done wait for it to pull in a bit and give it a float up ready for skimming
