Another Aquapanel query...

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YorkRich

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Hello people...

Maybe I should have done more research before hand, but having already boarded my ensuite walls in Knauf Aquapanel - I am now after your advice!

I am planning on tiling floor to ceiling within the shower cubicle, and up to window ledge height in the remainder of the room (1500mm x 2000mm overall). I am planning to paint where not tiled, so thought i'd get a plasterer in to skim all walls and ceiling (normal pb) before getting the father-in-law to come and do the tiling.

I have been reading up on this very insightful forum, but am still not 100% sure on the best course of action.

Before installing the boarding, I checked on the Knauf website and read:

Q. Which side of the plasterboard should I skim plaster finish?
The face of plasterboard suitable for skim plastering is the front face ( the face with no printing on, and no paper joins ). When plastering onto Knauf Moistureshield (moisture-resistant plasterboard), a coat of Knauf Betokontakt – a bonding agent – should be applied and allowed to dry prior to skimming.

and have installed as such, on the basis that I was going to get the whole room skimmed.

I now understand that it would have been better to mount the boards the 'correct' way round (smooth side showing) and tile directly onto the board...

I believe that I now have no option but to skim all boards - and I seek your guidance and expertise on the best approach regarding: taping/filling joints, pre-treatment and skimming material.

Any advice greatly appreciated - if you need any further info please ask.

I look forward to your help...

Rgds Richard
 
i am still not clear on what you have done in your ensuite.

on the aquapanel we scrim the joints and tile. you can use either side of cement board as they are the same material through out. just advert on smooth side.

on the areas we plaster we use plasterboard. ivory side, not the recycled paper on the reverse.
 
Hi Richard

Sorry, I am a bit confused.....

You have installed Aquapanel Interior to all the walls and then skimmed them all..... Now you are going to tile some areas and pant the rest? Is that right?

You should tile directly to the smooth face of the Aquapanel Interior first, then skimmed up to the tiles. (If Aquapanel Interior is installed backwards, it us not a big issue, just note the batch number)

Tiling onto a skim applied to the Aquapanel Interior, kind if defeats the object. The skim is Gypsum based and will soften as it gets damp / wet through the grout line.

Please advise what it is you gave done, to confirm.....

Cheers

Richard Lord
Knauf
0791876657
Rlord@knauf.co.uk
 
Gents - thank you for your responses - and apologies - I have obviously not been very clear...

All I have done at present is fix Aquapanel Interior to the walls (timber joists), smooth/print side to the joist.

I was planning on skimming the whole room prior to tiling (which is why i left the 'rough' side exposed) - before I read many posts on here advising not to (and now, after a bit more reading, I understand why). If both sides are effectively the same, and I can still tile to the 'rough' side, I don't feel quite so sick!

So all I have to do it tape and fill the joints, get the tiling done, and get a plasterer in to skim down to the tiles - is that right?
Do i need to seal the joints/screw heads to make them 'waterproof'?
Can you recommend which joint compound to use, and which tile adhesive works best with Aquapanel?
Is there anything I should/shouldn't treat the Aquapanel with before skimming?

Hope this makes a bit more sense now...

Thanks in advance for your responses (and patience)!

BR Richard
 
YorkRich said:
Gents - thank you for your responses - and apologies - I have obviously not been very clear...

All I have done at present is fix Aquapanel Interior to the walls (timber joists), smooth/print side to the joist.

I was planning on skimming the whole room prior to tiling (which is why i left the 'rough' side exposed) - before I read many posts on here advising not to (and now, after a bit more reading, I understand why). If both sides are effectively the same, and I can still tile to the 'rough' side, I don't feel quite so sick!

So all I have to do it tape and fill the joints, get the tiling done, and get a plasterer in to skim down to the tiles - is that right?
Do i need to seal the joints/screw heads to make them 'waterproof'?
Can you recommend which joint compound to use, and which tile adhesive works best with Aquapanel?
Is there anything I should/shouldn't treat the Aquapanel with before skimming?

Hope this makes a bit more sense now...

Thanks in advance for your responses (and patience)!

BR Richard
Click to expand...
Take them off turn them around so the tiling can be done, I wouldn't skim over it you better tile the lot, you can get jointing compound and scrim for it as well

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
 
YorkRich said:
Gents - thank you for your responses - and apologies - I have obviously not been very clear...

All I have done at present is fix Aquapanel Interior to the walls (timber joists), smooth/print side to the joist.

I was planning on skimming the whole room prior to tiling (which is why i left the 'rough' side exposed) - before I read many posts on here advising not to (and now, after a bit more reading, I understand why). If both sides are effectively the same, and I can still tile to the 'rough' side, I don't feel quite so sick!

So all I have to do it tape and fill the joints, get the tiling done, and get a plasterer in to skim down to the tiles - is that right?
Do i need to seal the joints/screw heads to make them 'waterproof'?
Can you recommend which joint compound to use, and which tile adhesive works best with Aquapanel?
Is there anything I should/shouldn't treat the Aquapanel with before skimming?

Hope this makes a bit more sense now...

Thanks in advance for your responses (and patience)!

BR Richard
Click to expand...

Hi Richard

I think between us you have answered all your own questions....

Use any 'quality branded' tile adhesive, or as recommended by the tile supplier

Use the tile adhesive as the joint filler with the Aquapanel Interior Tape

If you have used Aquapanel Screws there is no need to protect them (they have the Aquapanel branding on the screw head still visible), if you have used drywall screws (usually black screws) they may rust in time and this will come through the skim.

Be guided by your plasterer ref prep for the board before skimming. There is no real need to prime, but it will suck hard and dry quickly. Depends on the plasterers experience.....

Good luck
 
zolco said:
Take them off turn them around so the tiling can be done, I wouldn't skim over it you better tile the lot, you can get jointing compound and scrim for it as well

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Zolco is right.....

Take it all down, buy it all again and do it properly!

I have a budget to hit!

Lol
 
No expert myself at all on bathrooms ...but always thought it's best to open the window when I have a shower.
 
Thanks for your input gents - much appreciated...

Just another couple of Q's - and then i'll leave you be!

1) Referring to the Knauf literature it states: 'Permanently flexible sealant should be used at corners, at wall to floor connections, around penetrations, and at interfaces with baths
and shower trays, in combination with sealing tape in wet areas.'

Am i right in thinking that a good quality silicone sealant will do this job? Would you not tape and fill the corner with flexible grout adhesive?

2) Is it necessary/good practice to seal joints after re-enforcing or will taping and filling suffice?
 
Interesting topic bathrooms over say the last 10 years cement boards or moisture boards,normal standard plasterboards have all been used in bathrooms..i was told by a tiler that moisture getting behind tiles was always down to the wrong adhesive and grout also the way baths and trays are fitted either upto or cut into the wall or board...absolute mine field bathrooms think most of time alot of people spend alot of additional funds on trying to not get the blame for a leak but at the end of the day think nothing lasts for ever and just lately 5 years is a long time for no problem's in a bathroom installation
 
Ur rite plasterMan ive boarded plenty of bathrooms in plain board (doing so now) and fully skimmed then there are getting fully tiled..ive used aqua panel boards and not skimmed and I've used moisture boards with skimmed and not skimmed..my assessment is its a load of s**t lol..theres a reason all these new ways and materials come out so company's make more dosh..i used plain board in my new bathroom 3 years ago and some tiles on in there and I even patched in some areas in BONDING and guess wat there's f**k all wrong in there
 
Kitchy said:
Ur rite plasterMan ive boarded plenty of bathrooms in plain board (doing so now) and fully skimmed then there are getting fully tiled..ive used aqua panel boards and not skimmed and I've used moisture boards with skimmed and not skimmed..my assessment is its a load of s**t lol..theres a reason all these new ways and materials come out so company's make more dosh..i used plain board in my new bathroom 3 years ago and some tiles on in there and I even patched in some areas in BONDING and guess wat there's f**k all wrong in there
Click to expand...
I think there must be some sense in the different types of boards some how.
Always see all the different ways on jobs and think it's down to who ever is in charge of job to decide what's best way but always comes down to blame if there is a leak or stain and at the end of the day all bathrooms get a battering and nearly all the shower and bath and trays and doors are crap nowadays.
It's got to be the adhesive and grout where the protection of the wall is ..it's got to be waterproof.
That's the plumber and tillers job.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
theplasterman said:
I think there must be some sense in the different types of boards some how.
Always see all the different ways on jobs and think it's down to who ever is in charge of job to decide what's best way but always comes down to blame if there is a leak or stain and at the end of the day all bathrooms get a battery and nearly all the shower and bath and trays and doors are crap nowadays.
It's got to be the adhesive and grout where the protection of the wall is ..it's got to be waterproof.
That's the plumber and tillers job.
Click to expand...
Ye agreed if tilers use a gud quality grout and adesive its not getting thru to whichever board is used
 
Tile adhesives are not waterproof..... businesses such as Schluter, who do water proof and flexible membranes for tiling, would not exist if it was.... also various tanking systems for full wet rooms would not be needed....
 
s61 said:
Is tile adhesive not waterproof
Click to expand...
Danny said:
hmmmm good question....
Click to expand...
Text my tiler dude today he says most good quality grouts and adhesives are waterproof , just the cheap shitty brands aren't.

The mystery of a good bathroom job thickens
Glad I'm just a plasterer and just do what I'm told.

:birra:

Where there's a blame there's a claim :hola:
 
Runswithscissors said:
Tile adhesives are not waterproof..... businesses such as Schluter, who do water proof and flexible membranes for tiling, would not exist if it was.... also various tanking systems for full wet rooms would not be needed....
Click to expand...
What do they tile swimming pools with
 
Same stuff but swimming pool structures are solid cement or waterproof fabric....

There is a guy on here who only does pools.... cannot remember his name? He will know.....
 
Picture taken for different purposes , but if you look close at the left corner over the tub you will see answer to one of your questions;)
 

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