Artex everywhere! Thick on the walls - Brown under the paint. Is it Artex? Asbestos?

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Is this Artex - Potential to have asbestos

  • Yes

    Votes: 2 40.0%

  • No

    Votes: 2 40.0%

  • Couldnt say

    Votes: 1 20.0%
  • Total voters
    5
norman moss said:
have u ever had a fail with bonding or do u use magic mix
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No not even with no pva . But if we have a lot well pva every where mix extra skim and just use that to pack next hit out . You be surprised how much artex a hand board of skim can pack out
 
Another thing we do @norman moss . Is if it's a large room and ceilings artex. We.ll pva room but do all walls useing bit extra skim to pack ceiling. Of course some patterns need a scrape . But works well on that fan pattern
 
John j said:
No not even with no pva . But if we have a lot well pva every where mix extra skim and just use that to pack next hit out . You be surprised how much artex a hand board of skim can pack out
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No p.v.a????
4988BEE3-11DA-44AA-A34D-A2856267E474.gif
 
John j said:
Another thing we do @norman moss . Is if it's a large room and ceilings artex. We.ll pva room but do all walls useing bit extra skim to pack ceiling. Of course some patterns need a scrape . But works well on that fan pattern
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only lost 2 both in same house thank god only small landing and entrance put it down to a bad paint job re did it ok that was many jobs ago years infact but even now always walk in to where ive just done and look up to see if any cracks
 
Did a job a while back. Went that week big crack down ceiling. I said that's bad . Customer said it prob cause he.s been banging about it loft. I said yeah normally case. . ......But don't ye think bed will be better over other side of room
 
Damsel in distress said:
Hi All,

Really hope you can help, I've been getting different opinions everywhere. Looking to plaster over the artex, one plasterer came round and noticed under the white paint the textured stuff is actually brown/ orangey brown. Would this be gypsum rather than "Artex" am I safe to scrap it back and prep it for the plasterer? What precautions should I take? Mask (will the cheap ones work? OR worth spending the money) overall, googles?
1 - If its brown is it highly unlikely to contain asbestos?
2. Any other ways I can tell without getting it tested? Crumbly? Soluble?
3. Any hits and tips for the best ways?
4. Do I need to take the carpet up because of the dust/asbestos?
5. Should I spray it continually with water?
6. If I use X Tex remover do the walls need to be washed down before they can PVA and plaster?
Any and all advise welcomed.
Thanks ever so much
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thats skim for sure
 
John j said:
No not even with no pva . But if we have a lot well pva every where mix extra skim and just use that to pack next hit out . You be surprised how much artex a hand board of skim can pack out
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I did a house full on the last refurb, it was everywhere, walls and ceilings ans it looked like it had been there a ling time so I didn't want to disturb it in case of asbestos.

So blue grit, magic mix and two coats of skim it was, hard work but it looked great in the end.
 
What's blue grit?

Griff097 said:
I did a house full on the last refurb, it was everywhere, walls and ceilings ans it looked like it had been there a ling time so I didn't want to disturb it in case of asbestos.

So blue grit, magic mix and two coats of skim it was, hard work but it looked great in the end.
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Ignore steve he’s a painter.

Blue grit is horrible to apply. Horrible shite.

It’s best used when there is no suction like vinyl paint. It provides a ‘new surface’ along with a mechanical key, and plenty of work time.

It’s very gritty and can feel like you’re skimming artex.

Suction is your friend. Just keep it controlled with pva
 
Don't you talk to me about suction control you spread beast! The last batch wouldn't set for 3 hours! (put too much retarder in)

In terms of PVA, is there a real different in brands? The local big orange merchant is selling plastering bostik pva (?) for a fiver (5ltrs) on clearance (I'm currently using selco own brand)

lurpak said:
Ignore steve he’s a painter.

Blue grit is horrible to apply. Horrible shite.

It’s best used when there is no suction like vinyl paint. It provides a ‘new surface’ along with a mechanical key, and plenty of work time.

It’s very gritty and can feel like you’re skimming artex.

Suction is your friend. Just keep it controlled with pva
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LarryTheLag said:
Don't you talk to me about suction control you spread beast! The last batch wouldn't set for 3 hours! (put too much retarder in)

In terms of PVA, is there a real different in brands? The local big orange merchant is selling plastering bostik pva (?) for a fiver (5ltrs) on clearance (I'm currently using selco own brand)
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Some thickos will assure you pva is pva. I beg to differ.

Cheaper pva takes longer to dry. Which can lead to you skimming on wet pva which can lead to issues.

I’d recommend unibond super pva
 
LarryTheLag said:
Don't you talk to me about suction control you spread beast! The last batch wouldn't set for 3 hours! (put too much retarder in)

In terms of PVA, is there a real different in brands? The local big orange merchant is selling plastering bostik pva (?) for a fiver (5ltrs) on clearance (I'm currently using selco own brand)
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You only do one wall at a time, you error of creation. What the f**k do you want with retarder?
 
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