Best materials/way of protecting stone?

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DannyMac

DannyMac

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Is there any good tape that will stick to it?

Last time I tried only that foil ducting tape worked but it didn't pull off well. Gaffa tape failed, not due to dust or lack of stickiness, think the stone was too cold or something. This was inside.

I've a mono job coming up soon and will be using parex, does it stain stone badly?

Anyway here are a few pics;

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DannyMac said:
Is there any good tape that will stick to it?

Last time I tried only that foil ducting tape worked but it didn't pull off well. Gaffa tape failed, not due to dust or lack of stickiness, think the stone was too cold or something. This was inside.

I've a mono job coming up soon and will be using parex, does it stain stone badly?

Anyway here are a few pics;

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Warrior mentioned somthing available from pics for protecting stonework??? It was only a few weeks ago? Can't find the thread now:RpS_unsure:Sorry DM
 
We do the Orange Brick Tape. It's made exactly for this. Let me know if you need some, won't be on here tonight as I'm doing the good boyfriend thing, but give me a call tomorrow

Ryan
 
Fatarm said:
Warrior mentioned somthing available from pics for protecting stonework??? It was only a few weeks ago? Can't find the thread now:RpS_unsure:Sorry DM
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Mate what are you doing pissing on the wall ,thats why the tape don,t stick :rolleyes)
 
is that orange tape called jaffa tape?
thats the stuff we use or seal the stone prior as suggested.
 
Thanks all, so orange tape it is.:RpS_thumbup:

What's good to use with it, to cover the quoins with? I was thinking protection grade polythene, but it'd be a ballache cutting into sizes i need.

And what should it be sealed with? Is this only for if you're plastering near it or is it done anyway on all builds?
 
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is it york stone that?
id be carefull if it is,its very porus is york stone and like any other render parex monorex is acidic so it will stain the stone if it gets on, all so its very week so will chink for fun. we use the above, plus the pull down tape used on windows. A job like this you want to be adding 20% on top of your metreage price to allow for it.
 
Danny can you not drop a foot wide bit of poly from top to bottom and around the corner that would mask 50% of it. Then you'd just have to cu a few squares for a couple stone left uncovered
 
probably recon stone mate it wont be pure york.

the cheapest gaffer I find the stickiest the smooth surface gaffer is sh1te. we pay less than 2£ a roll in box quants and you can see the mesh cloth showing through strong in the shiny side but the smooth stuff is shizer
 
owls said:
is it york stone that?
id be carefull if it is,its very porus is york stone and like any other render parex monorex is acidic so it will stain the stone if it gets on, all so its very week so will chink for fun. we use the above, plus the pull down tape used on windows. A job like this you want to be adding 20% on top of your metreage price to allow for it.
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Not sure what stone it is, it did look porous though. I'll try to get them to seal it first if thats whats normally done.

We added a day for two guys for the covering up.

Would you pull off the tape on day one and tidy up/replace any mono that gets disturbed or wait till it's fully hard and cut it off with a stanley?
 
johniosaif said:
the stones should of been sealed I think
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What with John?

keithuk said:
Mate what are you doing pissing on the wall ,thats why the tape don,t stick :rolleyes)
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Haha just noticed that. It's my mate not me.

beddy said:
Danny can you not drop a foot wide bit of poly from top to bottom and around the corner that would mask 50% of it. Then you'd just have to cu a few squares for a couple stone left uncovered
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Good idea cheers. Ryan sells some 550 wide stuff, will measure up and see if that will do.

warriorupnorth said:
Ye pics do a paste you brush on, it stops the staining, but you still have to clean it down then jet wash off
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Where is pics, have you got a link to the website please mate? Have you used it before?
 
If the stones are dry just use masking tape mate and pull it off straight after u spray and run it in with a pointer always works for us nice and cheap aswell
 
Had another look at the job yesterday and they've not stepped out the mullions around some of the openings far enough. Some are only 10mm proud.

What depth is the minimum you can finish monorex at, before the blocks start grinning though?

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Hi did one exactly like this and used Microgobetis on the blockwork. It stopped the ghosting effect as we only had 10mm depth to play with.
 
Andy M said:
Hi did one exactly like this and used Microgobetis on the blockwork. It stopped the ghosting effect as we only had 10mm depth to play with.
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Cheers I'll do that then. Did you hand apply in one coat, and leave flush to the mullions?
 
No mate, we sprayed it, but no reason why you couldnt hand apply in two passes with a very tight first coat.We taped everything up and applied a little heavier than the mullions then scraped back flush.
 
I'm scared of scraping back to the scratch coat so I'll try and put one fat coat on i think.

How do you think the micro stopped the ghosting?
 
You could fix a 15mm stop bead around the mullions to ensure you get the thickness. We done that before and trap a thin gauge polythene behind the beads . Sheets mullions and windows a treat
 
You will be fine with Parex in one good pass. The rep came out to the job with me and speccied it. I reckon it seals (partly anyway) the block and the joints stopping the old ghosting. To be fair though Danny,you can get a first pass on pretty thin.
 
More stupid and short of work.

I bought one of these......Link Removed ....and nailed it to the wall getting the most weather. It read dropped to 2 celcius last night when the forecast said it was -1. I'm hoping it wasn't a one off, and when i look at it in the morning it doesn't say that it dropped to -2.
 
Yeah, I-barred it this morning and scratched it this aft.

Fu'cked up a bit though by not taking off the tape yesterday but then figured a real good way of getting it off, even when 10mm of it is under the finished work.

I pushed the edge of a trowel on the wall and pulled the tape out while the mono was being forced to stay in position. (does that make sense?)

The tiny gap left by the tape can be rubbed in with a finger.

It only dropped to 0.7 degrees.
 
Went ok apart from a small amount of bleeding in one spot.

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Ooooops

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