blocking up doorways

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Someone wants me to block a couple of doorways with studding, everytime I see one thats been done a while its always cracked, any tips on the best way to stop cacks coming around the edges.
 
Take the door standards out and build your frame back enough to fit your boards flush and butted up against the existing plaster.
Then your not plastering over the timber then grttin a crack all round the old opening..(y)..
 
Fatarm said:
Take the door standards out and build your frame back enough to fit your boards flush and butted up against the existing plaster.
Then your not plastering over the timber then grttin a crack all round the old opening..(y)..
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Thats definitely how I would do it, would never skim over the timber but presumed they were cracking anyway just becuase the studding expands and contracts a bit with heat etc and the solid wall doesnt
 
jet said:
Best way if you timber partition!
Screw your pb
To timber as usual, go past opening with board , that edge is fastened with adhesive onto solid wall
Click to expand...
That makes sense(y)
 
Lodan said:
Someone wants me to block a couple of doorways with studding, everytime I see one thats been done a while its always cracked, any tips on the best way to stop cacks coming around the edges.
Click to expand...
Just stud them. Stick paper tape around the frame wth PVA and then skim. f**k me.
 
Pva edge of plasterboard before you scrim up will work a treat I think I have posted this tip before for ceilings
 
Thanks for the replies lads going to go with @jet's idea as seems to make good sense(y)
 
I've actually a job like this after xmass. Just a few days taking stud wall down and blocking up 2 doorways. All I'll be doing is stud where doors are, new plasterboard, uni old plaster and tape the joints then bond and skim.
 
As blackdog said I would paper tape the join and if the walls are not too big or awkward skim the whole lot, they will never know a door ever existed. Must admit I've been impressed with the BG fiba tape with tight weave it seems strong.
 
jamesthefirst said:
As blackdog said I would paper tape the join and if the walls are not too big or awkward skim the whole lot, they will never know a door ever existed. Must admit I've been impressed with the BG fiba tape with tight weave it seems strong.
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Yes will be skimming the whole walls so not an issue on that front
 
The reason they crack is that the timbers shrinks when it dries out. Timber will contain moisture until it's in a room/house with central heating. By the time the plaster dries, and the timber dries, it'll shrink enough to cause cracks.

A whole stud wall shrinks as one, a patched in doorway will shrink but the already dry stud or brick/block around it doesn't.

Board past the joint as already mentioned, and bond the board to the new stud using a grip adhesive. That way the timber can move and the adhesive will flex without shifting the board.

Alternatively, warn the customer that a crack will appear, explain why and give it a flick of filler and it won't reappear.
 
theclemo said:
Metal stud is a great job. Just uk and Ireland that still using timber studs:rolleyes:
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I have never seen metal stud used to block a doorway. Just one of those things done or not done from habit I suppose?
 
Canal top /bottom studs cut and put between slide into position level and fix either screw or crimp .
Super quick.
Same on ceilings threaded brass plug threaded bar and toggle, flat stud clips to toggles strong as fuk.
 
jet said:
Best way if you timber partition!
Screw your pb
To timber as usual, go past opening with board , that edge is fastened with adhesive onto solid wall
Click to expand...
That's what I do. Scrim round edges only will nearly always crack. No shortcuts.
 
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