Brick outline showing through external render. Normal?

theclemo said:
View attachment 33774
They are 15mm beads dabbed on so should be around 20mm there where it come trough. Job was done in February. They only showed up this month.
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U can see the block where the 15mm stopbeads and Conner beads are. So there is around 20mm of render there as the beads are dab on. Look at the plinth u cant see them. There is around 8mm of render on the plinth. It's not to do with depth. It's a suction problem on the joints. U can see it in the photo.
 
theclemo said:
U can see the block where the 15mm stopbeads and Conner beads are. So there is around 20mm of render there as the beads are dab on. Look at the plinth u cant see them. There is around 8mm of render on the plinth. It's not to do with depth. It's a suction problem on the joints. U can see it in the photo.
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Is it meshed???
 
theclemo said:
U can see the block where the 15mm stopbeads and Conner beads are. So there is around 20mm of render there as the beads are dab on. Look at the plinth u cant see them. There is around 8mm of render on the plinth. It's not to do with depth. It's a suction problem on the joints. U can see it in the photo.
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So what you saying pal ? Drying out on joints slower ?
 
Same as a diagonal scratch with weaker top coat , not to say clemo hasn't made an excellent diagnosis
 
Bear in mind I don't do none of your modern muck ,,, sharp cem lime for me , never 1 coat
 
Havagojo said:
Same as a diagonal scratch with weaker top coat , not to say clemo hasn't made an excellent diagnosis
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The original pic shows blocks and joints so struggling with the joint issue causing the problem ! Would say heavey rain period and it’s drying out
 
Lox said:
Don’t think that’s a possibility
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Water would travel along the contact between mesh and render at a different rate so the mesh would wick and so diffuse to some extent , slown down I can't type that fast lol
 
Lox said:
The original pic shows blocks and joints so struggling with the joint issue causing the problem ! Would say heavey rain period and it’s drying out
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Agree to that I was interested in clemos point and asking zombie about his mesh comment , b,gger me your typing too quick lol I'm trying to catch up , have a spliff and slow down
 
I would say no dude the mesh is between coats couldn’t move the moisture or it would be seen and the render around it is much more porous so the water comes out
 
Havagojo said:
Agree to that I was interested in clemos point and asking zombie about his mesh comment , b,gger me your typing too quick lol I'm trying to catch up , have a spliff and slow down
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Mesh makes no difference in this issue bud
 
Lox said:
Applying modern renders in one pass or coat is not a issue 15mm thickness not a problem
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My render is usually 20/25/30 final thickness but different days ,2 coat top coat weaker and never got any problem like that , as you never know what someone else has done and how its a mystery always assumed render too thin or no waterproof
 
Educate me then , mesh between coats , sc I use metal modern you use polywhatever
 
Lox said:
I would say no dude the mesh is between coats couldn’t move the moisture or it would be seen and the render around it is much more porous so the water comes out
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Can't do the blue tag
 
Havagojo said:
My render is usually 20/25/30 final thickness but different days ,2 coat top coat weaker and never got any problem like that , as you never know what someone else has done and how its a mystery always assumed render too thin or no waterproof
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Your traditional render will normally be painted so can’t compare and will contain a waterproofer
 
Lox said:
Mesh is glass fibre ! It’s used for stress areas windows doors ect ! And it’s put on with the product your using on the job
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That's what I assumed , but do you lay on a coat , trowel on mesh and straight on with more muck , metal I put on stress areas but in some cases the whole wall , more necessary on sunny side , its fixed with the odd screw or clout and first coat forced on top , scratch , then top coat another day
 
Havagojo said:
That's what I assumed , but do you lay on a coat , trowel on mesh and straight on with more muck , metal I put on stress areas but in some cases the whole wall , more necessary on sunny side , its fixed with the odd screw or clout and first coat forced on top , scratch , then top coat another day
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First pass mesh around stress areas and then second pass is one method other ways available too ! Your welcome to the metal and traditional render mate
 
Stopped render full time 20 years ago lol , only do it occasionally and usually its for Tyrolean which is one coat , but the main reason is its cheap , do a lot of work for farmers , most of them don't even paint it ( plain render ) lol , don't get me wrong its pukka quality just my customer base , bit of a waste when they don't give a shxt but I enjoy it , weather conditions made me turn to internal as I work on my own ( use to mix me own, no lab )
If you skim a board taped joint , when dry wet up you see the tape because the mesh effects the moisture travelling , can't see it being any different for outside render slower or faster it'll still diffuse surely
 
Havagojo said:
Stopped render full time 20 years ago lol , only do it occasionally and usually its for Tyrolean which is one coat , but the main reason is its cheap , do a lot of work for farmers , most of them don't even paint it ( plain render ) lol , don't get me wrong its pukka quality just my customer base , bit of a waste when they don't give a shxt but I enjoy it , weather conditions made me turn to internal as I work on my own ( use to mix me own, no lab )
If you skim a board taped joint , when dry wet up you see the tape because the mesh effects the moisture travelling , can't see it being any different for outside render slower or faster it'll still diffuse surely
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Ffs how do I do the blue tag , you'll have to scroll up and read
 
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