ceiling cracked every joint

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billcarphead

New Member
hello all
having a bit of a problem with a newly plastered ceiling, every joint has opened up hairlines down the board's length and some wider ones on the width joints.
The ceiling screwed up tight (no popped heads) fibre taped every joint tapered edge boards 2 coats of multi 2 separate mixes. 3.4 w x 5 ish .
clearly shrunk in my opinion client saying no heat was put on, but its the room with the only sky tv.
Boards came from Wickes to the job in 10 min no rain. (possibly Knauf sending out boards with maybe higher than normal moisture content ??(in these lean times money to be saved there) but is anything sounding familiar here?
The leccy turned up as we were finished and clearing up to pull lighting cables to the 2 ceiling lights (apparently did this without needing to enter the room above the ceiling.
I've been to easifil it once now she wants it done again
does anything sound familiar, or seeing anything similar out there cause it's not making much sense to me.
Thanks for any replies
 
What size screws did you use?? How far apart were they how many screws per row. Theres no way that would crack like that unless there wernt enough screws in ive had customers have the heating on full wack its been dry the next day and never done that.
 
@billcarphead
What is above the room you've done?
Chalet style properties can be more prone to cracking due to timber movement.
I've plastered over some pretty crappy tacking in my time, boards with nowhere near enough nails/screws and not experienced problems with cracking.
 
f**k all to do with amount of screws or suction imo

It's either from movement as in sparks have walked above or damp timbers.
 
billcarphead said:
...every joint has opened up hairlines down the board's length and some wider ones on the width joints....
Click to expand...

Only joint cracks I've ever had in a ceiling were from movement, but that was over months from clay heave in the building.
Serious joist movement should pop some screwheads, are they crappy 3x2 joists and has someone been bouncing around on them?
Damp boards won't matter a jot, they get damp when you plaster them. Heating won't affect a skim.

Was the plaster still stuck on joints or had it delaminated? Finally, why does she want it filled again? Does it keep cracking?

Summary: On current info, I'm with @zombie... fat electrician.
 
Never had a come back on a ceiling after a board and set well not to my memory anyway I’d blame the sparks or bite bullet pva scrim cracks and skim again it’s a mornings work depends how much you value the customer and where you know them from if it’s a review site you gotta go back
 
Pagey said:
Never had a come back on a ceiling after a board and set well not to my memory anyway I’d blame the sparks or bite bullet pva scrim cracks and skim again it’s a mornings work depends how much you value the customer and where you know them from if it’s a review site you gotta go back
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I.d rather skim again then fill n sand. As mad as it sounds are you really sure you.ve skrimed it
 
John j said:
I.d rather skim again then fill n sand. As mad as it sounds are you really sure you.ve skrimed it
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I’m the worst for rubbing down I can’t stand it mate I did a bit of taping and jointing once I thought it was ok but the bloke on job went who done that I went why he went cos it’s rough as fcuk I went I dunno mate so for me it’s a reskim all day long
 
Had this happen once turned out chap doing the insulation in attic was roll was working between joists how he dident come through ceiling I will never know must have been well screwed
 
We have all had that one customer who makes a song and dance last one I had was about 4 years ago I knew I shouldn’t of took job on but did she kept texting me afterwards saying this is wrong that’s wrong and could I give her money back lucky for me I knew the window fitters and couple of other trades on job they said she done it to them as well
 
If you're going to do it again for Christ's sake put paper tape up rather than scrim, at least then if it cracks again you've done everything you can.
 
essexandy said:
If you're going to do it again for Christ's sake put paper tape up rather than scrim, at least then if it cracks again you've done everything you can.
Click to expand...

Why is it some plasterers try and tell other experienced, knowledgeable builders or proper plasterers, that the paper jointing tape is "a waste of time" or "that the out of date way of doing it", or " scrim/pro-tape mesh is far stronger and better"?

Why do companies such as BG spend thousands £££ developing a product, and state in their guidelines:

"MORE RESISTANT TO CRACKING THAN FIBRE TAPES"
or "FOR SUPERIOR CRACK RESISTANCE USE PAPER TAPE",
"A PAPER TAPE ALTERNATIVE FOR REINFORCING JOINTS, WITH A GREATER OVERALL CRACKING RESISTANCE"

Why wouldn't you take the manufacturers advice? It's because "plasterers" either don't know how to use it, or the main reason is they can't be bothered because it takes longer.

These companies have technical departments with testing equipment, training departments, scientists etc. etc. and are there to help and advise how get the best out of their products.

I rest my case.
 
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I know a plasterer who like to leaves a tiny gap between his boards . Says it give some mesh for skim to actually sit in to . Made sense but no chance I was f**k**g bout doing it. Also noticed boards dont seem to but up loke they used to leaving a mm or 2 mm gap . Might be why
 
Robert The Bruce said:
Why is it some plasterers try and tell other experienced, knowledgeable builders or proper plasterers, that the paper jointing tape is "a waste of time" or "that the out of date way of doing it", or " scrim/pro-tape mesh is far stronger and better"?

Why do companies such as BG spend thousands £££ developing a product, and state in their guidelines:

"MORE RESISTANT TO CRACKING THAN FIBRE TAPES"
or "FOR SUPERIOR CRACK RESISTANCE USE PAPER TAPE",
"A PAPER TAPE ALTERNATIVE FOR REINFORCING JOINTS, WITH A GREATER OVERALL CRACKING RESISTANCE"

Why wouldn't you take the manufacturers advice? It's because "plasterers" either don't know how to use it, or the main reason is they can't be bothered because it takes longer.

These companies have technical departments with testing equipment, training departments, scientists etc. etc. and are there to help and advise how get the best out of their products.

I rest my case.
Click to expand...

I genuinely thought scrim was better than paper... until I was shown something at @knauf with @Vincey and @theclemo @scottie5 @zolco then I am looking at papertape in a whole new light
 
Here is a question for the knowledgeable plasterers
Which boards will move and crack more- the once with smal gap between or the once without gap, tide as f**k?

General practice is to fix the boards to the existing ceiling lath .
 
vfr12 said:
Here is a question for the knowledgeable plasterers
Which boards will move and crack more- the once with smal gap between or the once without gap, tide as f**k?

General practice is to fix the boards to the existing ceiling lath .
Click to expand...
Non if there fixed right lol I.ll take a stab in dark and say the ones butted tight as the gap compensate for any movement
 
Bg recommend both scrim and tape but obviously it comes down to cost of using paper tape for most
 
John j said:
I know a plasterer who like to leaves a tiny gap between his boards . Says it give some mesh for skim to actually sit in to . Made sense but no chance I was f**k**g bout doing it. Also noticed boards dont seem to but up loke they used to leaving a mm or 2 mm gap . Might be why
Click to expand...
Tbh mate you should leave a gap that’s correct
 
I had similar happened to me before, wet rafters and wet timber studwork was to blame and lack of noggins, timber is a biatch
 
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