Damp patch

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Hello

Sorry to burst your bubble.
I have a laboratory for sample analysis. Salt testing using dilute nitric acid, silver nitrate, dilute sulphuric acid, concentrate sulphuric acid and iron sulphate.

That's very impressive.
so can you post the results of the tests you carried out on the particular wall you posted a picture off rather than ask us to diagnose a problem when you have only given us part of the story.
I would be particularly interested in the type of salts you found to be in your samples and also where they were taken from because the picture you have posted does not show any evidence of a destructive survey having been carried out ?

Or are you just trying to impress us and you diagnosed rising damp without taking any samples contrary to your messiah Graham Colemans advice
 
Its a material that is used in the treatment of damp, but your relying on it melting and the porous mortar beds capillary action do the work of treating the area. I have worked with enough siloxane and silicone dpc's to know how to do it properly.

What makes me laugh is the people who think you can cure it with some cream mouse or sticks of stuff, I would still use spirit based but the stink of it is not right for the householder hence the move to acrylic.

The guarantee is not useless if the company is excellent, but they are like rocking horse shite.

I was a bit of a sceptic about the PCA but I can see now that they are at least helping raise the standards from the old days, what I don't believe in is the 2 days training and your an expert.

Personally I want to see chemical suppliers going back to how it was back in the day and only selling to the professional.
 
Its a material that is used in the treatment of damp, but your relying on it melting and the porous mortar beds capillary action do the work of treating the area. I have worked with enough siloxane and silicone dpc's to know how to do it properly.

What makes me laugh is the people who think you can cure it with some cream mouse or sticks of stuff, I would still use spirit based but the stink of it is not right for the householder hence the move to acrylic.

The guarantee is not useless if the company is excellent, but they are like rocking horse shite.

I was a bit of a sceptic about the PCA but I can see now that they are at least helping raise the standards from the old days, what I don't believe in is the 2 days training and your an expert.

Personally I want to see chemical suppliers going back to how it was back in the day and only selling to the professional.
thats the problem who are the professionals? And I don't mean bodey and Doyle :)
 
Well basically the beds are not able to resist moisture, hence the capillary action and the rising dampness/moisture.

Introducing a damp proofing material will stop the moisture from rising and then hopefully cure the problem.

What always makes me laugh is the people who say that tanking is not the answer, moisture is in the ground all the time, if it stopped raining you might stand a chance lol
 
No ray tanking can be used is quite a few different applications, I have even used tanking on a chimney stack.

Its a moisture barrier, I have used it for bridge cavity's before.
 
Wow you say it's rising damp how do you know the damp never came down? I have diagnosed this problem loads of times on my destructive surveys and the problem has always been the same, some prick has used a gypsum based plaster to float a wall that has had a problem with damp. The wall you show has had a damp issue before and an idiot has gone over the top and threw some bonding in for good measure. That's the problem it's nothing to do with rising damp I've seen this on the second and third floor of many houses and don't tell me that's rising. Rooms have condensation issues and the water goes somewhere and through the walls is one way, so if bonding or browning gets wet because the wall gets cold it will stay wet. It's that simple it's basic plastering, it's written on the bags what it's for and in this case it's been proven, forget rising damp on this one but I wish you good luck in your journey to find "the rising damp" :)
 
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You have to understand I done the survey and not you, otherwise it would be a leaking gutter in the middle of the house. The bonding didn't go full height, the house is in a marsh area, the other side of the wall is feature red brick, the rest of the walls inspected to digest 245 showed rising damp and salts.


Rooms have condensation issues and the water goes somewhere and through the walls is one way, so if bonding or browning gets wet because the wall gets cold it will stay wet. It's that simple it's basic plastering, it's written on the bags what it's for and in this case it's been proven, forget rising damp on this one but I wish you good luck in your journey to find "the rising damp"

Yes I done a condensation survey with a calibrated anemometer, there was no condensation problems, especially on an internal wall! Condensation going through walls, what are you on about? Are you on about vapour pressure?

 
You have to understand I done the survey and not you, otherwise it would be a leaking gutter in the middle of the house. The bonding didn't go full height, the house is in a marsh area, the other side of the wall is feature red brick, the rest of the walls inspected to digest 245 showed rising damp and salts.


Rooms have condensation issues and the water goes somewhere and through the walls is one way, so if bonding or browning gets wet because the wall gets cold it will stay wet. It's that simple it's basic plastering, it's written on the bags what it's for and in this case it's been proven, forget rising damp on this one but I wish you good luck in your journey to find "the rising damp"

Yes I done a condensation survey with a calibrated anemometer, there was no condensation problems, especially on an internal wall! Condensation going through walls, what are you on about? Are you on about vapour pressure?

Are you saying the bonding coat is not causing the problem? What has been happening in that room since that job was done you won't ever know because you don't live there. It is not rising damp coz you say so it is the bonding that is holding the moisture it's that simple I've seen it loads of times.
 
Also looking at the job they have covered up a damp wall with a stud wall to hide it, they haven't fixed the problem so the damp problem gets worse. You have a void between the problem wall and the DPM which is fixed at the back off the stud wall. so what you have is a damp and cold space which will make that bonding coat cold, which will give you the impression from looking at the wall that it's damp, and not rising just damp, problem solved.
 
Also looking at the job they have covered up a damp wall with a stud wall to hide it, they haven't fixed the problem so the damp problem gets worse. You have a void between the problem wall and the DPM which is fixed at the back off the stud wall. so what you have is a damp and cold space which will make that bonding coat cold, which will give you the impression from looking at the wall that it's damp, and not rising just damp, problem solved.


It's a 4" red brick internal dividing wall between a dining room and kitchen. The stud is where the door lining was so it hasn't been used to hide it. Have a look at the profile its not cold its damp. Go and get Digest 245, its only £15 you will enjoy it.
 
I doubt the house was built that way it's an obvious alteration and to go to that much trouble I would say there was a problem with damp. The part that is damp is where the bonding is coz the picture shows it is the damp patch. Now let's just imagine that one patch is bonding that is holding the moisture so it will constantly hold the moisture to the point the weight of the moisture will start heading down coz that's what water does. Is the bonding causing any damp issues in your opinion?
 
A very interesting thread. What the forum is all about. If it's rising damp why does it appear in a patch like that? I mean, why does it travel that far up the wall to emerge at that particular point? Was everywhere else tanked? What would you do in that scenario @D4mp? Would the whole wall and adjacent walls need to be treated or could that little bit just be patched with some renovating plaster?
 
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A very interesting thread. What the forum is all about. If it's rising damp why does it appear in a patch like that? I mean, why does it travel that far up the wall to emerge at that particular point? Was everywhere else tanked? What would you do in that scenario @D4mp? Would the whole wall and adjacent walls need to be treated or could that little bit just be patched with some renovating plaster?

Hello Jurek

Excellent question.
It appears at that height only because that is where the tanking stopped, the adjacent walls have been tanked full height. Perhaps you could patch just that area for a cheap fix, but all the walls had rising damp. This marsh area is so wet along with poor surface drainage it was always going to happen. The builder installed aco drains and land drains around the property, internally desiccant dehumidifiers were used to dry it down after the render was removed. Sounds drastic, but you have to remember it has been done before badly and they wanted a long term solution.
 
Looking at the pics does that damp patch start just where the bonding starts? You should of hacked off around that patch and we could see if that was all bonding just in that patch coz that's how it looks.
 
Got to agree with you there D4mp, lost count of the jobs I have looked at where the plasterer as used bonding on the walls instead of S&C and its caused problems with wrong diagnosis.
Its only experience that usually can see the issue.

Bonding is designed to do a specific job, usually too go on areas that are internal and not on external walls. The stuff acts like a bloody sponge and holds the moisture.
Currently working on a job at the moment that has these issues, also has a fair bit of salt damp which I am finding in areas.

I guess I have to thank these uneducated builder/plasterers for creating me a pay packet lol

Again lack of education seems to be the main problem when your dealing with problems in property
 
Got to agree with you there D4mp, lost count of the jobs I have looked at where the plasterer as used bonding on the walls instead of S&C and its caused problems with wrong diagnosis.
Its only experience that usually can see the issue.

Bonding is designed to do a specific job, usually too go on areas that are internal and not on external walls. The stuff acts like a bloody sponge and holds the moisture.
Currently working on a job at the moment that has these issues, also has a fair bit of salt damp which I am finding in areas.

I guess I have to thank these uneducated builder/plasterers for creating me a pay packet lol

Again lack of education seems to be the main problem when your dealing with problems in property

would you you say the job your on is suffering from so called rising damp or is the problem the wrong plaster used?
 
Hello

Sorry I thought I posted a link to this ages ago, just shows how good bonding is at sucking the damp up the wall.

How high can rising damp rise? | Welcome to Complete Preservations blog

Hello again

i don't want to waste too much time on this reply because the Leprachaun at the bottom of my garden is making the foxes howl.

On another rubbish thread you posted some time ago, again using your destructive survey technique, you discovered more rising damp. I pointed out to you that this was a very simple, any fool would know case of a bridged damp course. You didn't bother wasting everyone's time trying to justify your misdiagnosis luckily.

The next bit is not difficult. Bonding is like a sponge, it will draw any moisture out of the wall to the surface and vice versa.

Your smart arsed point about the vertical physical dpm fixed to the upright stud " at least they got something right ! " -- you're saying this will help cure the rising damp lol.
In fact, the upright dpm if anything, will slightly help with dampness from the brickwork PENETRATING ( that's right PENETRATING) into the stud work

"Screedy cement mix" ? , I give up.
 
The job I am doing at the moment is penetrating damp and issues with poor workmanship in the past.

Yeah the main issues are wrong materials used but also the wrong exterior paint causing the moisture to get trapped in the wall and making the whole house damp.
Lets just say its a list of poor workmanship that has caused 80% of the issues. the easy bit was stopping the water coming in lol

Landlord has paid out thousands over the years and seems like they have been fleeced by amateurs with little knowledge of building maintenance.

I have seen plasterers putting on bonding years ago as a way of getting the job done fast, a couple of years later the bonding starts to cause issues.
Looked at a few jobs where the competition have stated DPC injection when all it needed was bonding removed and rendered to spec.
I guess these salesmen need to keep the boys in work, just doing a bit of job creation
 
Every man and his dog are giving damp proofing a go,we get leaflets through the door on a regular basis saying;
-tarmac
-block paving
-building work
-DAMP PROOFING!
all these companies do is suggest a dpc injection method as the customer knows little about it and as there are 'chemicals' involved they can make out they are super expensive along with them making out it's a specialist job is a recipe for disaster and leave the customer open to being ripped off!
 
Water will push its way through thick concrete.
injecting bricks with glue is a load of bulbacack.

thats my theoretical analaysis of the bespoke logistic chat.
 
@D4mp so you diagnosed rising damp what is your solution to fix it? Are you doing the work yourself or don't you get involved in that side of the black magic?
 
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@D4mp so you diagnosed rising damp what is your solution to fix it? Are you doing the work yourself or don't you get involved in that side of the black magic?


Didnt you you read it ? Some idiot injected the bricks, not the mortar beds :RpS_biggrin:

When Safegaurd &co first discovered the rising damp industry potential they insisted that only the bricks where to be injected, not the mortar beds. That's becauce the moisture will rise up the capillaries in the bricks, capillary action. ( I'd love to see a pic of these capillaries :RpS_lol:)

Now Safegaurd & co have insisted that the water rises through the mortar beds, not the bricks, because injecting the bricks would be a stupid thing to do, derr.

Make your own minds up :RpS_confused:
 
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