Damp patch

Status
Not open for further replies.
irish_spread said:
Didnt you you read it ? Some idiot injected the bricks, not the mortar beds :RpS_biggrin:

When Safegaurd &co first discovered the rising damp industry potential they insisted that only the bricks where to be injected, not the mortar beds. That's becauce the moisture will rise up the capillaries in the bricks, capillary action. ( I'd love to see a pic of these capillaries :RpS_lol:)

Now Safegaurd & co have insisted that the water rises through the mortar beds, not the bricks, because injecting the bricks would be a stupid thing to do, derr.

Make your own minds up :RpS_confused:
Click to expand...
I read it then laughed then read it again and laughed a bit more, so @D4mp you have gave your findings is that it? You just go in, wreck the place, tell them a fairy tale and **** off? Do you tell them how to fix it or even fix it your self?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Yeah I am afraid the remedial sector had turned into a joke and it is purely down to the chemical companies opening the door to tom, dick and paddy :RpS_thumbdn:
Injecting the brick is pointless, its less porous than the mortar and if its engineering brick you might have to wait a while to get it to take up the fluid :RpS_confused:

Horses for courses I am afraid, not one type of treatment will do everything, I always say if in doubt tank it, and not with that plastic sh*t lol

I am all in favour of people earning a crust, we have to live after all but ever since these greedy chemical companies started selling it to the masses we have had more and more people let down by these uneducated trades people who think its as easy as drilling a hole and injecting a silicone based fluid.

The blame in my eyes rests at the arseholes who sell it.
 
adapt said:
Yeah I am afraid the remedial sector had turned into a joke and it is purely down to the chemical companies opening the door to tom, dick and paddy :RpS_thumbdn:
Injecting the brick is pointless, its less porous than the mortar and if its engineering brick you might have to wait a while to get it to take up the fluid :RpS_confused:

Horses for courses I am afraid, not one type of treatment will do everything, I always say if in doubt tank it, and not with that plastic sh*t lol

I am all in favour of people earning a crust, we have to live after all but ever since these greedy chemical companies started selling it to the masses we have had more and more people let down by these uneducated trades people who think its as easy as drilling a hole and injecting a silicone based fluid.

The blame in my eyes rests at the arseholes who sell it.
Click to expand...

Agreed, but not Tom Dick and Paddy, Tom Dick and Harry. Paddys not stupid, he uses sand and cement plus waterproofer. To be sure, to be sure :RpS_thumbup:
 
Adapt is quite honest and knows what he is talking about (except for the Paddy bit :RpS_thumbsup:) and we will agree to differ on some points. Slimey Steve ? I liked him and he argued a good but flawed case, saying that very knowledgeable, but taken in by marketing and BRE 245 etc. D4mp comes out with stupid case studies, posts a load of irrelevant figures and claims he is a specialist damp company. Then asks which is the best speedskim to use ?.
Despite D4mp being the source of all knowledge on dampness and posting meaningless graphs, when his answers to causes of damp on here are rubbished, even the clown chuckles, he never bothers to reply. I have checked, d4mp does log in and check replies to his rubbish posts :RpS_tongue:
 
irish_spread said:
Agreed, but not Tom Dick and Paddy, Tom Dick and Harry. Paddys not stupid, he uses sand and cement plus waterproofer. To be sure, to be sure :RpS_thumbup:
Click to expand...
I actually go a little further I spray it with an acid, but no ordinary acid I use patio cleaner, a tenner from B&Q for 5lt, bang it in a spray bottle and give it a coat and if I have put too much in the spray bottle I will give it another coat coz I'm good like that :) then sand and cement with a good waterproofer. Cut the bottom few inches off, leave to dry then skim, job sorted and sorry to burst anyone's bubble surrounding this industry x
 
flynnyman said:
I actually go a little further I spray it with an acid, but no ordinary acid I use patio cleaner, a tenner from B&Q for 5lt, bang it in a spray bottle and give it a coat and if I have put too much in the spray bottle I will give it another coat coz I'm good like that :) then sand and cement with a good waterproofer. Cut the bottom few inches off, leave to dry then skim, job sorted and sorry to burst anyone's bubble surrounding this industry x
Click to expand...

You forgot the air bricks flynnymarra......................:RpS_wink:
 
No point using blue brick as the damp rises through capillaries in the mortar beds ;-)
 
Haha well the paddy bit was just to get you biting lol, I know a fair few irish boys and they do take pride in their work and they are good crack on the beer too :RpS_love:

Spraying with acid is a great way to open the pores up of a substrate, helps with adhesion of new coats onto old surfaces, done it myself on some concrete walls we were tanking in a car park.

Every day is a school day boys, and I enjoy getting proved wrong from time to time, means your open minded.

It is funny when you can tie up chartered surveyors in knots lol, what are they learning in uni apart from the difference between lager and babycham ? lol
 
I think it's just a sign of the times, in the 80/90s if you left a house empty squatters would move in and wreck the place but now it's rising damp and this can cause more problems and cost a hell of a lot more to fix, but even more to find and track down. Even the banks won't let you buy the house until these bastards are tracked down and killed and in some cases they have moved into the next door property with them living there grrrrrrrr and we thought squatters were bad ;)
 
Well its nearly as bad as stoneworm. I have not seen that as yet but it was covered on the last of the summer wine years ago lol

Similar to woodworm but in stone work :RpS_blink:
 
Why not use a moisture blocker. Have had great success in the case of OPC and heritage bonded masonry.
Regards, Prof Denis A Chamberlain
 
Okay, any type of mortar is predictably much more water transmitting than any brick. However, brick materials are capable of transmitting moisture to varying degrees (even if imperceptible), but normally over a very long period of constant exposure to water. Using a suitably prepared specimen, it is possible to use the ISAT method to prove this. At the same time, the occurrence of frost damage, with loss of brick mass, confirms that water can be held within a brick, not just the mortar (otherwise we should only ever witness mortar deterioration due to frost). Past use of low vapour permeable hydrophobic treatments and the associated damage also supports this statement (locked in moisture problem). However, this does not apply to correctly formulated fluoropolymer treatments (used for their oleophobic and hydrophobic characterises) which have negligible effect on gas and vapour permeability. I use them because I do not like the effort in removing atmospheric dirt, moss and repointing my mid 1600's natural cement bedded stone cottage.
Regards, Prof Denis A.Chamberlain
 
snowcempaint said:
Okay, any type of mortar is predictably much more water transmitting than any brick. However, brick materials are capable of transmitting moisture to varying degrees (even if imperceptible), but normally over a very long period of constant exposure to water. Using a suitably prepared specimen, it is possible to use the ISAT method to prove this. At the same time, the occurrence of frost damage, with loss of brick mass, confirms that water can be held within a brick, not just the mortar (otherwise we should only ever witness mortar deterioration due to frost). Past use of low vapour permeable hydrophobic treatments and the associated damage also supports this statement (locked in moisture problem). However, this does not apply to correctly formulated fluoropolymer treatments (used for their oleophobic and hydrophobic characterises) which have negligible effect on gas and vapour permeability. I use them because I do not like the effort in removing atmospheric dirt, moss and repointing my mid 1600's natural cement bedded stone cottage.
Regards, Prof Denis A.Chamberlain
Click to expand...

i was gonna say that, oh and welcome to the forum :) before you start to passing your products Onto the forum please read the rules because if you don't sponsor, you can't sell it's that simple xx
 
Last edited:
The problem these days is the older houses were not built to modern standards i.e DPC's and frost resistant bricks etc.

So bringing old housing stock up to modern standards is basically trying to polish a turd at times but with the correct design and specification of materials I think you can make an older property preform nearly as good, just takes more ££££

I specify more towards the tanking side of things these days, I still carry out the occasional DPC injection with "fluid" and saturate the mortar beds un like the guys who use the cream method.

Personally I find insulation of the inside of a older property as one of the most important changes you can make to a home.
 
snowcempaint said:
Okay, any type of mortar is predictably much more water transmitting than any brick. However, brick materials are capable of transmitting moisture to varying degrees (even if imperceptible), but normally over a very long period of constant exposure to water. Using a suitably prepared specimen, it is possible to use the ISAT method to prove this. At the same time, the occurrence of frost damage, with loss of brick mass, confirms that water can be held within a brick, not just the mortar (otherwise we should only ever witness mortar deterioration due to frost). Past use of low vapour permeable hydrophobic treatments and the associated damage also supports this statement (locked in moisture problem). However, this does not apply to correctly formulated fluoropolymer treatments (used for their oleophobic and hydrophobic characterises) which have negligible effect on gas and vapour permeability. I use them because I do not like the effort in removing atmospheric dirt, moss and repointing my mid 1600's natural cement bedded stone cottage.
Regards, Prof Denis A.Chamberlain
Click to expand...
Nice bit of 'connecting with your audience' there :RpS_thumbup:
 
flynnyman said:
I do hope @D4mp comes back with his latest findings lol
Click to expand...


Hes probably taking pics of his next damp anomaly as we speak.
I bet the customer will have had loads of idiots saying it's not rising damp and then d4mp makes some holes in it and finds it is. I hope he makes some more graphs showing the water content of the bricks. Customers love graphs and %'ages
 
flynnyman said:
I do hope @D4mp comes back with his latest findings lol
Click to expand...

Me too, it's entertaining stuff. I especially liked the part where he used a device for measuring wind speed as part of a damp survey.

D4mp said:
Yes I done a condensation survey with a calibrated anemometer, there was no condensation problems, especially on an internal wall!
Click to expand...
 
Lab? Pah! I've got a bat cave (@Nisus has seen it) and inspite of a river running under it the damp doesn't rise. :RpS_lol:
 
I've checked his profile, he has a look at the forum every day. Maybe he's too flat out analysing his data and chasing the dragon to come back online
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Share this page

Back
Top