keithuk
Private Member
That will help
dampness???
- Thread starter Daviebhoy
- Start date
- Status
Not externally I have internally
Good lad you went off and read somethingKnock it all off and start again
After the windows have been opened for a while
zolco
Private Member
He is the sensible oneGood lad you went off and read something
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
So are u creating problems If you do? I know u luv ur damp threads and ur the damp guru..well u and @hail hail lol
Vincey
Private Member
Looks to me like a Victorian neglected crap hole where there has been no ventilation for years and the windows have been glued shut for donkers and the fires on chimneys were probably blocked up in the early 90s all resulting in ...time to smash off dry out and start again.
keithuk
Private Member
Your good !!just from that picture as well !,respect
Say the damp came back?
Vincey
Private Member
Thanks Keith
vfr12
MOTORC*NT
Explain your self sir! Internal render with waterproof top coat?
The way I was taught makes so much sense ie waterproofer in the scratch and not in the top. You don't want to completely waterproof a building it needs to get wet then dry and so on.
Vincey
Private Member
That's not damp it's just mouldy un ventilated Victorian room
Probably was red brick that shouldn't of had a dash on in first place..
I wait till he posts more pictures now
I said my piece
(I might be wrong)
Keep up vince we have established its mould and we know the walls have been rendered then re-rendered but it wasn't there before.That's not damp it's just mouldy un ventilated Victorian room
View attachment 10900
Probably was red brick that shouldn't of had a dash on in first place..
I wait till he posts more pictures now
I said my piece
(I might be wrong)
vfr12
MOTORC*NT
That should answer it then! For a minute I thought you flipped
Jgreenplastering
Private Member
But isn't water proofer meant to allow a building to breathe hence allowing moisture to evaporate while not absorbing mass
Amounts?
If you have no waterproofer in top coat this means the wall will absorb a lot more moisture than having a waterproof top coat allowing only a small amount of moisture in which will in turn dry out quicker?
Surely in winter when we see cracks appearing in people's render because water has creeped in this would be the same with no waterproofed top coat?
The moisture content will hold in the render longer due to no waterproofer the top coat which when it freezes and thaws will cause cracking?
I'm curious flynny.
Water proof never means water proof but the more moisture allowed to soak into a wall the longer it would take to dry out?
I no the Scrath will stop this but then wouldn't the top coat become ineffective and pointless while being prone to fail?
I was never taught things like this have just had to pick things up as I go so I'm simply asking.
It is done in certain circumstances ie if there is a finish ie key stones and a proper ashlar finish or if you were on the coast with driving rain.
Fatarm
Trainee mod
...
Jgreenplastering
Private Member
Isn't a top coat with no waterproofer more likely to fail in the winter when it will absorb more moisture though?
When you say it will dry out quicker because it isn't holding the moisture in?? Won't this mean the waterproofer isn't doing its job then as it shouldn't be allowing as much moisture in in the first place and is supposed to allow the structure to breathe so it should allow moisture to evaporate?
Why would a water proof top coat hold more moisture than a non waterproofed top coat isn't that the whole point of the waterproofer being used?
If it works as you say why does the scratch coat with waterproofer not act in the same way as the top coat? Although the rain is direct onto the top coat moisture will still find a way through If not properly waterproof wouldn't it?
Vincey
Private Member
So you have a wall, a waterproof scratch coat, a top coat without. Driving rain will soak through the top coat and not pass through the waterproof scratch coz it's not driving and will drop down and dry out. If it was in the top coat driving rain will pass through it but not be able to dry out as quick because the waterproofer will be better because it's nit driving through it. Just look at it in basic science and how water works
Jgreenplastering
Private Member
So you have a wall, a waterproof scratch coat, a top coat without. Driving rain will soak through the top coat and not pass through the waterproof scratch coz it's not driving and will drop down and dry out. If it was in the top coat driving rain will pass through it but not be able to dry out as quick because the waterproofer will be better because it's nit driving through it. Just look at it in basic science and how water works
I get what your saying but if the waterproofer isn't allowing as much to pass through because it has waterproofer in then it wouldn't need as long to dry out as it doesn't have as much as a non waterproofed top coat In?
So with a waterproofer in both coats it doesn't allow as much moisture in so doesn't need to dry out as much keeping water absorption to a minimum and allowing it to still breathe no?
I think a wall with non would dry quicker
Fatarm
Trainee mod
In simpler times when I was younger...freeflo in both coats for dry dash was the rule?..so thats what ive always done....didnt really understand the science behind it tbh. Didn't care to much.( sorry flynnster)
But I cant remember any instances of major problems caused internally.or externally...damp, cold walls, mould.etc?
And its erm.. pretty wet round my way quite a lot of times
...
but this thread may turn into an education?.
or a good laff
But I cant remember any instances of major problems caused internally.or externally...damp, cold walls, mould.etc?
And its erm.. pretty wet round my way quite a lot of times
...but this thread may turn into an education?.
or a good laff
I always use waterproofer in both coats. And problems like this arise from air movement (lack of),houses now have air tight windows and central heating but the houses was designed with Windows that let a gale through and air vents all over the place, now the slightest draft and air vents are removed, and no air movement,ending up with mould on cold walls, common problem now, I doubt it very much comes from outside dashing, I may be wrong but in my experience it's lack of airflow
Unless something else has changed I would investigate the render first.
It's a good job everybody is different because problems would never get sorted, all relying on one method
Or ignoring the problem and create another
Danny
-
- Status