Dot and dab advice

For a strong wall studding was done in 4" timber but if you use 2"x2" and fix 18mm osb to it. You still get a good strong wall and the osb will cost you about £23.00. So if your wall is 12 foot then all it will cost you extra is £69.00. Some people say over the top but you could hang anything on it.
 
satan said:
Well can I ask why you are thinking of doing other interior walls which arent cold?
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Was never thinking of interior walls anyways was just going to dot an dab them. It just a question that I asked that I won't need to do this on interior (internal) walls just the external ones.
 
satan said:
For a strong wall studding was done in 4" timber but if you use 2"x2" and fix 18mm osb to it. You still get a good strong wall and the osb will cost you about £23.00. So if your wall is 12 foot then all it will cost you extra is £69.00. Some people say over the top but you could hang anything on it.
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I got one full external wall and one half a wall, the other external walls have big windows so will be making a stud wall around them. The upstair bedrooms are velux window rooms, it's a bungalow style house so will be making a stud wall under the rafters which is also a small area. So maybe it's not worth making stud walls on all the external walls just the one full and half wall and use thermal plaster board on the other what you suggest.
 
chief_67 said:
I got one full external wall and one half a wall, the other external walls have big windows so will be making a stud wall around them. The upstair bedrooms are velux window rooms, it's a bungalow style house so will be making a stud wall under the rafters which is also a small area. So maybe it's not worth making stud walls on all the external walls just the one full and half wall and use thermal plaster board on the other what you suggest.
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Its your house. If a jobs worth doing is worth over doing. It all depends what your plans are? Only you can answer that question.
 
Firstly ,chemical injection for damp is a racquet .
Those damp meters are designed for wood and not worth a carrot .
I would strap walls with metal stud and board with insulated plaster board ,I wouldn’t dab to external walls ,you can get cold spots .
 
rodas said:
Firstly ,chemical injection for damp is a racquet .
Those damp meters are designed for wood and not worth a carrot .
I would strap walls with metal stud and board with insulated plaster board ,I wouldn’t dab to external walls ,you can get cold spots .
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Yes that what I was thinking aswell mate. Put insulated plaster board on the external walls. I've put thread up for which thermal boards are recommended and what mm, I know the thicker the better but what would be good enough. Also the way the plasterer was going to fit them was dot and dab the thermal plaster board then screw them in for added insurance using the plasterbaord fixings I think they called, what you think of this procedure.

Also what you think of the batten method, damp membrane on wall, the 2x2 stud wall, 50mm insulation boards in between the stud wall then plaster board and skim on top, or you think thermal plasterbaoed is good enough and does the job.

Thanks
 
chief_67 said:
I dont have any issues with cold spots it just that I'm a stress freak and I read that people who dot and dab have had cold spot issues circles around the adhesive spots. And coz I'm dot and dabbing I think it might happen to me so want to take precautions. I know what you thinking I'm going OTT lol.
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Not if its insulation board as damp wont come through foam . But could make dot come away from wall . Mines been on about 5 years and still solid though . Though like you said you could use fixing foam as well as dots . I.ve seen a kid use just fixing foam and he said it was a nightmare on bad walls
 
chief_67 said:
Yes that what I was thinking aswell mate. Put insulated plaster board on the external walls. I've put thread up for which thermal boards are recommended and what mm, I know the thicker the better but what would be good enough. Also the way the plasterer was going to fit them was dot and dab the thermal plaster board then screw them in for added insurance using the plasterbaord fixings I think they called, what you think of this procedure.

Also what you think of the batten method, damp membrane on wall, the 2x2 stud wall, 50mm insulation boards in between the stud wall then plaster board and skim on top, or you think thermal plasterbaoed is good enough and does the job.

Thanks
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It’s your call,the method is correct dabbing then fixing ,I’m just not sure I would personally do it ,I would be inclined to stud walls,I don’t think a membrane s necessary,you don’t want walls getting condensation behind cos of some sheets of plastic.
If the boards aren’t contacting the wall directly I think you will be ok .
But I’m no expert
 
John j said:
Not if its insulation board as damp wont come through foam . But could make dot come away from wall . Mines been on about 5 years and still solid though . Though like you said you could use fixing foam as well as dots . I.ve seen a kid use just fixing foam and he said it was a nightmare on bad walls
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What method did you use to fix your insulation boards. When you say fixing foam I presume the plaster board fixings that you drill through the thermal board into the wall. What boards did you use and what mm, were they brick walls you used them on. Still shopping around for which ones u want to buy.
 
chief_67 said:
Also the way the plasterer was going to fit them was dot and dab the thermal plaster board then screw them in for added insurance using the plasterboard fixings I think they called, what you think of this procedure.


Thanks
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Dot and dab then screw them to the wall? Are you afraid of them falling off or the wall falling down?

I think you have asked every single question about every possible procedure...............and you still dont know.
 
rodas said:
It’s your call,the method is correct dabbing then fixing ,I’m just not sure I would personally do it ,I would be inclined to stud walls,I don’t think a membrane s necessary,you don’t want walls getting condensation behind cos of some sheets of plastic.
If the boards aren’t contacting the wall directly I think you will be ok .
But I’m no expert
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Why do you say you would stud the walls.

If i used thermal boards and fixed by the dot and dab way they would be contacting the wall so I don't understand what you mean by if they aren't contacting the wall directly it would be ok.
 
chief_67 said:
Yes that what I was thinking aswell mate. Put insulated plaster board on the external walls. I've put thread up for which thermal boards are recommended and what mm, I know the thicker the better but what would be good enough. Also the way the plasterer was going to fit them was dot and dab the thermal plaster board then screw them in for added insurance using the plasterbaord fixings I think they called, what you think of this procedure.

Also what you think of the batten method, damp membrane on wall, the 2x2 stud wall, 50mm insulation boards in between the stud wall then plaster board and skim on top, or you think thermal plasterbaoed is good enough and does the job.

Thanks
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If you stud wall with timber /metal track you get it nice and straight/plumb then cut your boards and fix ,no mess .
If you dab it you will need to pva walls if it’s old brick otherwise dabs will roll of due to dust ,you grease the back of the board with dab ,dab wall ,then stick board and straighten then with a straight edge ,once set you fix it again mechanicals with plugs into masonry ,I t might be cheaper but it’s messy
 
satan said:
Dot and dab then screw them to the wall? Are you afraid of them falling off or the wall falling down?

I think you have asked every single question about every possible procedure...............and you still dont know.
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Lol Satan,

I know I'm going to use thermal board on the external walls but not sure what procedure to fit them with. There so many ways to do it but you say dot and dab and screw them to the wall. I'm afraid of getting it wrong that's what you guys are for.

Anyways need your help again. What thermal board and mm would you recommend. I know the thicker the better but what would be good enough for brick walls in an old style house.

Thanks satan
 
rodas said:
If you stud wall with timber /metal track you get it nice and straight/plumb then cut your boards and fix ,no mess .
If you dab it you will need to pva walls if it’s old brick otherwise dabs will roll of due to dust ,you grease the back of the board with dab ,dab wall ,then stick board and straighten then with a straight edge ,once set you fix it again mechanicals with plugs into masonry ,I t might be cheaper but it’s messy
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Thanks mate. That explained in lemans term for me.
 
chief_67 said:
Why do you say you would stud the walls.

If i used thermal boards and fixed by the dot and dab way they would be contacting the wall so I don't understand what you mean by if they aren't contacting the wall directly it would be ok.
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The cold spots are caused by bridging from masonry through dab to board ,but if your using insulated back boards this should not happen,
 
Your not meant to use pva when dotting (learnt that of hear)
And I.ve never used the screws . Someone on here said there only to hold boards up in a fire so they don't fall on firemen . So to be fair if that's the reason by time house is that hot your either out or dead
 
John j said:
Your not meant to use pva when dotting (learnt that of hear)
And I.ve never used the screws . Someone on here said there only to hold boards up in a fire so they don't fall on firemen . So to be fair if that's the reason by time house is that hot your either out or dead
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i just pva to seal dust ,otherwise dabs won’t stick ,,I trust that bond over not glueing wall
 
chief_67 said:
Lol Satan,



Anyways need your help again. What thermal board and mm would you recommend. I know the thicker the better but what would be good enough for brick walls in an old style house.

Thanks satan
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And the answer is...........................Thicker the better. :D:D
 
John j said:
Your not meant to use pva when dotting (learnt that of hear)
And I.ve never used the screws . Someone on here said there only to hold boards up in a fire so they don't fall on firemen . So to be fair if that's the reason by time house is that hot your either out or dead
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I’ve never seen them used either,this guy just wants bib and brace job
 
Rossi46 said:
If you dab onto thermalite or old dusty brick/block without giving it the necessary prior treatment then the bond between dab and wall won’t be as strong.
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Got it mate, basically pva or wet the wall so the wall not dusty and a good bond is between the dab and wall. Thanks
 
Hi lads need your comments on something, The plasterboarding is all going well ceilings have been boarded aswell as the walls. I want to ask my walls are 8.5 ft high and I'm using 6x3 12.5mm boards, the plasterer has put the boards on vertically from the top (ceiling) as the walls are big another sheet is needed underneath but the plasterer has put another sheet under the vertical sheet horizontally, is this ok is what I want to know. The plasterer said it will be fine, nothing to worry about.
 
chief_67 said:
Hi lads need your comments on something, The plasterboarding is all going well ceilings have been boarded aswell as the walls. I want to ask my walls are 8.5 ft high and I'm using 6x3 12.5mm boards, the plasterer has put the boards on vertically from the top (ceiling) as the walls are big another sheet is needed underneath but the plasterer has put another sheet under the vertical sheet horizontally, is this ok is what I want to know. The plasterer said it will be fine, nothing to worry about.
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Ffs! You obviously don’t trust you’re plasterer then? Pfft!
 
chief_67 said:
Hi lads need your comments on something, The plasterboarding is all going well ceilings have been boarded aswell as the walls. I want to ask my walls are 8.5 ft high and I'm using 6x3 12.5mm boards, the plasterer has put the boards on vertically from the top (ceiling) as the walls are big another sheet is needed underneath but the plasterer has put another sheet under the vertical sheet horizontally, is this ok is what I want to know. The plasterer said it will be fine, nothing to worry about.
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Your taking the piss.
 
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