Dot and screed System

alfred eibenstock

alfred eibenstock

New Member
Hi guys looking for some advice .When using the dot and screed to prepare a wall with browning or bonding should a scratch coat go before putting the screeds on or is it done in on coat after the screeds or on.
 
if you are going to be using dots which we have not used for years, i would set the dots up first, then it depends on the suction of the wall and the thickness that you want to apply. medium to high suction i would 2 coat the browning.
i would only use bonding if the wall is shuttered fair face concrete.
 
Use a 4ft darby.then an 8ft feather edge to rule it .That's always worked for me
 
Take it your new to plastering or have a wall that needs to be bang on? I learnt plumb dot and screed at college but haven't used it since we used to do it in sand and lime and hack it all off once we were finished for it to be reused, personally if your putting up rails or dot and dabbing a bit of plasterboard to level you want then filling in would probably be easier than trying to do the way your thinking of doing it if your asking questions on how to do it and how to put hardwall/browning on your over thinking it and making it complicated
 
Forget Browning,it's crap. If it's medium /High suction ,tight coat of Hardwall,or Tuff Coat ,then straight back on it with box screed, get ceiling line and skirting line straight ,then rule off them
 
dsdave said:
Forget Browning,it's crap. If it's medium /High suction ,tight coat of Hardwall,or Tuff Coat ,then straight back on it with box screed, get ceiling line and skirting line straight ,then rule off them
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Don't you think thats gonna take a while for a beginner? If they are a beginner that is,it's ok if you know what your doing
 
Can always set thin Strips of levelled up plasterboard every 600m and set ceiling & skirting lines.

Once there set up backfill and rule off with your backing coat will give you A1 perfect job.
 
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zombie said:
Can always set thin Strip of levelled up plasterboard every 600m and set ceiling & skirting lines.

Once there set up backfill and rule off with your backing coat will give you A1 perfect job.
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Plumb dot and screed will take to long
 
I am doing one of my properties up at the moment and have taken a chimney breast out of the bathroom. Really bad brick work and 18mm out of plumb in 2.5m.

I was talking to my apprentice today about dot and dab and what the dots are (perforated bitumem covered card board ex BG). We want this bad wall bang straight and plumb so I am going to dot it with him to show him how it is done. Not sure yet if it is going to be dot and dab plaster board or dot and screed sand and cement.

Last time was about 1999. Long wonky kitchen wall and a fussy customer who wanted the wall bang straight for his bang straight work top.
 
Rigsby said:
I am doing one of my properties up at the moment and have taken a chimney breast out of the bathroom. Really bad brick work and 18mm out of plumb in 2.5m.

I was talking to my apprentice today about dot and dab and what the dots are (perforated bitumem covered card board ex BG). We want this bad wall bang straight and plumb so I am going to dot it with him to show him how it is done. Not sure yet if it is going to be dot and dab plaster board or dot and screed sand and cement.

Last time was about 1999. Long wonky kitchen wall and a fussy customer who wanted the wall bang straight for his bang straight work top.
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i would dot and dab plasterboard to stop any soot from bleeding through.
 
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