Float and skim vs board and skim
- Thread starter JBlimework
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johniosaif
Private Member
High suction browning was brought in for high suction blocks ,it was more expensive than the normal browning, drying I think was not any faster butihave not used it since early nineties.
raggles
Private Member
I can remember being taught a d&d system in 81 and it was a nightmare dots of adhesive with a plastic pad about 75mm square set to them and u had to use levels and lines to set all the dabs and then the boards were fitted mechanically with screws or nails i can't remember which. but it was a nightmare and the only time we ever used it was the day we were given the training on it !!!!!!!
at easter i have been plastering for 50 years the only job i have ever had.
high suction browning,was a carlite plaster it was better then browning . but at that time there was a lot of low suction blocks, leca and leca fine.
there was also thistle browning and thistle fibre browning that you had to put through a cement mixer and add sand. then clean the mixer out every hour.
superspread
Well-Known Member
Remember eml plaster for .......eml:RpS_laugh:
there was a time when on first class plastering you stuck pieces of wood ,dots, on the wall , level them all up and rule the floating off them the next day. that idea went out the window the day piece work started.
we also used to dot floor screeds. it was quite nice to screed off dots
carlite metal lathing? they tell you to use thistle bonding now
superspread
Well-Known Member
Well done Malc couldn't remember the name ,thought that was gonna bug me all night:RpS_thumbup:
when your young bangin on 40 or so mtrs of float n set a day on ya tod isnt a problem but as u get older u realy feel it
iv gone over to dot n dab when i can now and is much easier on the old bod imo
plus with the paccy trowel is even better plus im goin to get an eze spat and handle to make it even easier in the future.......:RpS_thumbup:
iv gone over to dot n dab when i can now and is much easier on the old bod imo
plus with the paccy trowel is even better plus im goin to get an eze spat and handle to make it even easier in the future.......:RpS_thumbup:
JVplastering
Active Member
Easier to get a better finish on float and skim and somehow doesn't feel hollow. Oh that's cos it isn't!
is this not also called plumb and dot? you then screed of the dots when they had set , i have done this b4 was told i was on price after the first house , not likely dont get me wrong looked well but never going to do this on price!!
Jace
Well-Known Member
yeah we did this a few years ago on some massive house out brookmans park way, fack knows why it was like that but thats the job sheet we was given for it and it was browning downstairs to float with.
see a nice big pallett of browning at wickes the other day, diddnt think they sold it??
JBlimework
New Member
How long do you guys leave the float (cement) until you skim. Pva day before or hour or two before?I'm more used to working with lime but have a house to do and it's up to me so I'm going for f + s in cement and multi
xyzplasterer
New Member
Board and skim. Because its cleaner, quicker IMO, and because the majority of properties I work on are solid walled so allows me to insulate external, dab internals. Much better job imo. No end of problems if you have solid finish internal and external on solid walls.
Minh
Member
raggles
Private Member
The dottng of floor screeds was how i was first taught to do them and the method your talking about for the walls i had to use on a circular room about 2 years ago then run a screed top and bottom and float it the next day ! happy days :RpS_lol:
JBlimework
New Member
Because of breathing problems???
JBlimework
New Member
kebab king
Private Member
If it was my prefrence and doing a whole house id start at the the top and float all the way through with sand and cement, then drop back and skim when its cured proper, if its just a day job Harwall and set all day long.
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xyzplasterer
New Member
Yes.
Dr.B
Active Member
Thats how the developer wanted it done.
Leave it a few days some walls take longer than others, depends on the blocks. I was always told to test it my scratching it with a nail when you think its ready, if it leaves a white scrape go for it if not leave it.(hope that make sense) Def dont pva it, only ashing for problems, just make sure its well keyed from the devil floating. Some times you need to dampen the sand and cement other times not just depends on the drying.
lizard821000
New Member
float and set is messier(hardwall) but nicer finish imo as is s/c , my fav, nicest to use,cleans up a treat , more solid than dot n dab, your house dont sound hollow and horrible like cheap new build.
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Technically a solid wall has more benefits and advantages than a plasterboard wall (if done properly substrate prep to the finish). With regards price, dot n dab will always be the solution for low budget systems and plasterers who want to turn around jobs quick. Personnaly i prefer float and set. Either way u should be able to give the customer the option of cheap n cheerfull or long lasting and durable. No plasterer should be qualified unless they can float and set to 3ml tolerance over 1m. Sticking boards on walls is not skilled work and skimming 'to board' is not really something i regard as skilled either.
JBlimework
New Member
Any one else got any thoughts on the house breathing if you float and set in cement and cement render the outside....would this cause damp. Can't see how plasterboard would be any better as your still putting gypsum on top
lizard821000
New Member
cavity sorts that.
spunky
Private Member
Skimmings very skilled done properly and dabbing boards isn't easy most dry liners can't dab same as edging a wall
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