Floating

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superspread

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If you have a wall to float,say 30ft long by 10 ft high how do you guys approach it ,I do box screeds just wondered what you lot do , do you do sections as long as your straightedge is.
 
I just bang on the scratch and rule it flat as I go, depends if you work on your own or a two and one as I do,depends also on the wall's plumbness , best to get the scratch coat nice and level and then the work is eased, if the scrtach has a waterproofer in it , you should have plenty of time when you put on the second coat a week later.Bang it on ,rule and float, collect the money,..
 
on sand/cement i always put waterproofer to give me time and i dnt have to box screed, but for hardwall and the likes i box screed
 
I just bang on the scratch and rule it flat as I go, depends if you work on your own or a two and one as I do,depends also on the wall's plumbness , best to get the scratch coat nice and level and then the work is eased, if the scrtach has a waterproofer in it , you should have plenty of time when you put on the second coat a week later.Bang it on ,rule and float, collect the money,..

I dont think box sreeding takes a lot longer but i reckon more accurate,i plumb up my two screeds or as near as damm it (depending on job).
 
John no one mentioned two coating it.
Personally I use box screeds but usually work sections of about 4m between them.
And that's with either S&C or Hardwall
 
on sand/cement i always put waterproofer to give me time and i dnt have to box screed, but for hardwall and the likes i box screed

I box screed jr whatever I'm floating,I do put waterproofer in sand/cement to hold back suction for setting,whether I'm on the ground floor or 50 floors up.
 
John no one mentioned two coating it.
Personally I use box screeds but usually work sections of about 4m between them.
And that's with either S&C or Hardwall
Each to their own I expect, its not something I have ever done(using box creeds that is) I always assume two coats for floating if no one states its one coat. For hardwall , i bang it on ,rule it off ,check for plumbness, when its right and ready I devil float it, no need to complicate it IMO..
 
i dnt think it complicates it just makes it easier plumb up the screeds and fill in the middles, then you know its bob on (depending on severity of walls and what the job requires)
 
But why assume two coat not one John? Just curious as I hardly ever have to two coat anything more than the odd wall.
 
But why assume two coat not one John? Just curious as I hardly ever have to two coat anything more than the odd wall.
probably just used to refurbs in period properties Andy,the are nearly always bad enough, and in answering at the beginning, my mind was on external rendering so forgive my monday head...
 
i just lay -on then rule-off ,we used to be taught to put-up screeds at collage ,i couldn't see the point if you can rule level !!
 
wheni was taught i was shown how to use the box screeds and it worked quite well for us when i was bumped to improver i would just go around makeing the screeds up and the spread would fill in the middles, i was also shown dot and screed method but thats too much fark arseing about for my liking.
if its only a little wall ill jusr rule it up without check it and adjust accordingly
 
i just lay -on then rule-off ,we used to be taught to put-up screeds at collage ,i couldn't see the point if you can rule level !!

It's different on a 8x7 college wall gooner, to a wall that's 30/40ft long x10/12 high,but I do appreciate its horses for courses .
 
I stole this off an old thread in 2009 as written by essexAndy, hope he does not mind..
This is the way I use screeds Richard, when rendering I work right to left (I'm right handed).
Firstly I put a level on the wall near the internal to see if I need to the screed on thicker at the top or bottom to get it plumb, then I put a vertical screed about 300mm wide down the internal and rule it off, then I check it with the level and make any adjustments needed. Now I'm not saying that I make sure that they're all bang on plumb but if not they're always close.
I then do the same at the other end of the wall. The thickness of the screeds may vary taking into account of anything that needs getting over ( a poorly fixed lecy box or an obvious bow in the wall). If the blockwork is good and there aren't any other problems then I aim to have the screeds about 11mm thick. I don't leave the screeds to pull in or float them over, I just put on across the top of the wall from right to left coming down the wall about 400mm and then rule of from one screed to the other. Once I'm happy that I've got it straight I drop down the wall another 400mm and repeat the process until the wall is finished. This all sounds very long winded but is a very efficient way of rendering, your always ruling off fresh muck which can go straight back on the board and be reused. And I've worked alongside and employed enough spreads to know that I'm not slow. Anyway that's enough bla bla bla ;)
 
I do screeds at each internal ,horizontal screed at eye level ,another screed along the skirting line and then fill it all in,probably takes a little longer if at all IMO.
 
I still believe I can do it as I go, do not read this if you do not agree he he, I will still bang on a scratch, then bang on a second, check for plumbness, correct if necessary , rule, devil float, next please.. There is merit in what everyone else is saying and I have been wrong before so who really knows..If it suits you it suits you..
 
I liken it to putting up angle beads ,once it's all set out its a simple case of ruling off,the bit of time you lose setting the screeds up you claw back filling in.
 
i worked with someone before christmas who doesnt put his beads up before skimming just measures and cuts them and leaves them in the window or door gap then skimms the wall out and pushes the beads into the skim then has to go back repairing where hes pushed them into his skim coat:RpS_thumbsup::RpS_scared:
 
i worked with someone before christmas who doesnt put his beads up before skimming just measures and cuts them and leaves them in the window or door gap then skimms the wall out and pushes the beads into the skim then has to go back repairing where hes pushed them into his skim coat:RpS_thumbsup::RpS_scared:

you couldnt make it up :RpS_confused:
 
The only time I would use screeds is on old walls other then that I can rule any block, brick wall plumb I do like useing a darby when working this way.
 
i must admit even if its new block and its plumb i sometimes still use screeds just to break it up so to speak like youve got an margin to aim for makes it seem quicker even though its not.

@ctp, haha reckon i should have tried it just to prove thats a wank way of doin it, actually thats a lie i have tried it once on a little bathroom job i knocked up more than i thought i had and had enough to stick the last wall on and be out in half a day, and i had already cut the beads which i usually do anyway then put them on between trowels, so i thought id try it just this once, it did work but was a pain trying to keep them straight and lined up till the gear had set enough.
this was the way he did his beads though.......all the time:RpS_unsure:
 
two of us would be on this wall. we would put an area on, one would keep putting on the first coat, the other would fall back giving it a tight second coat and start to rule off. the first coat kills the suction the second allows you to rule off then rule in. i may rule in screeds, i may rule a box section, i would make my mind up when i saw the wall.
 
Dont think Ive ever seen spreads use screeds on site. Always just bish bash bosh.

Get it on, rule it off and plumb it up.
Rinse and repeat until done. 3 x 3 wall or 30 x 3 makes no difference....just bang on the metres....
 
i worked with someone before christmas who doesnt put his beads up before skimming just measures and cuts them and leaves them in the window or door gap then skimms the wall out and pushes the beads into the skim then has to go back repairing where hes pushed them into his skim coat:RpS_thumbsup::RpS_scared:

I knew an old boy called Ron Barker(RIP) who used to do that with his beads when floating, he would also join all the little (and I mean little) bits of bead up. He was without a doubt the roughest spread I've ever meet.

Dont think Ive ever seen spreads use screeds on site. Always just bish bash bosh.

Get it on, rule it off and plumb it up.
Rinse and repeat until done. 3 x 3 wall or 30 x 3 makes no difference....just bang on the metres....

Thing is mate I'd use that method no matter what pace I wanted or needed to work at. It's just as quick.
 
i just get the labourer to get everything filled up and ready ...then i prepare myself ,t-shirt off sweatbands on and go for it !
 
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