Hardwall or Bonding

[bobbybilly]

Good Evening Gentlemen

Just got around to doing the Hall Stairs and landing.
!937 built house.

Knocked of all the old plaster and have now got a dilemma.

Can't Dab it as the existing door frames and stairs have not got enough space.

There are the original wooden lintels above door frames etc. so these will have to be boarded.

Was going to float it with Hardwall but it appears that Hardwall doesn't like plasterboard.

If I use Bonding what ratio of PVA should I seal the brickwork with.

I am slower than rising damp so the float coat will be dryer than Gandi's flipflop.

I will be using SBR and Green Grit on the existing boarded parts ( didn't know they had plasterboard in 1937)

Is it ok to SBR and Grit the Bonding.

Cheers Rob

 

[malc]

This is NOT a D I Y project. You have no idea. Phone a plastering contractor.

 

[Monkey Boy]

9mm board and foam maybees?

 

[bobbybilly]

This is NOT a D I Y project. You have no idea. Phone a plastering contractor.

Thanks for the help mate

From some of the jobs I've had to put right from so called Contactors I wouldn't -pay them with washers.

I'm not a plasterer but I can plaster including floating.

Just wanted some advice

 

[bobbybilly]

9mm board and foam maybees?

Haven't got the room. I've got about 9mm along the stair stringer.

The wall is out of plumb by about 15mm at the top of the stair wall.

I've floated walls with Bonding before so I'll give it a go.

 

[spread95]

I would put a tight coat of bonding, scratch it then hardwall over top as its more user friendly.

 

[Steve Brown]

If you're boarding it properly finished thickness would be 25mm ish, I would not use 9mm board for dabbing staircase walls.

If you're doing it yourself then use hardwall.
Shouldn't need to dub out much over board on lintels and if so use bonding for that.
Personally I'd make them bigger then dab them on to correct depth when floating tac into lintels when it's gon off for belt and braces.

It'll be bone dry before you finish so wait till it's dry, SBR (diluted not neat) it first then let that dry the PVA and finish. No need for grit.

 

[Steve Brown]

By the way hardwall or bonding coat alone should be 8-10mm then finish on to of that so you might need to build out your stringer.

 

[FreeD]

Pop the architraves off and get a chippy out to extend the door frames. You can do the same with the string. Then dab it all.

Hardwall is utter shite.

 

[Salfordspread]

Good Evening Gentlemen

Just got around to doing the Hall Stairs and landing.
!937 built house.

Knocked of all the old plaster and have now got a dilemma.

Can't Dab it as the existing door frames and stairs have not got enough space.

There are the original wooden lintels above door frames etc. so these will have to be boarded.

Was going to float it with Hardwall but it appears that Hardwall doesn't like plasterboard.

If I use Bonding what ratio of PVA should I seal the brickwork with.

I am slower than rising damp so the float coat will be dryer than Gandi's flipflop.

I will be using SBR and Green Grit on the existing boarded parts ( didn't know they had plasterboard in 1937)

Is it ok to SBR and Grit the Bonding.

Cheers Rob

The original lintels want eml on then floating out . I'd grease bonding over the eml then float the rest in hardwall . Make sure you give that lintel a good soaking of water aswell or it'll crack its b*ll***s off . If not do as @FreeD said make life simpler for your self