Hardwall or Bonding

B

bobbybilly

New Member
Good Evening Gentlemen

Just got around to doing the Hall Stairs and landing.
!937 built house.

Knocked of all the old plaster and have now got a dilemma.

Can't Dab it as the existing door frames and stairs have not got enough space.

There are the original wooden lintels above door frames etc. so these will have to be boarded.

Was going to float it with Hardwall but it appears that Hardwall doesn't like plasterboard.

If I use Bonding what ratio of PVA should I seal the brickwork with.

I am slower than rising damp so the float coat will be dryer than Gandi's flipflop.

I will be using SBR and Green Grit on the existing boarded parts ( didn't know they had plasterboard in 1937)

Is it ok to SBR and Grit the Bonding.

Cheers Rob
 
If you're boarding it properly finished thickness would be 25mm ish, I would not use 9mm board for dabbing staircase walls.

If you're doing it yourself then use hardwall.
Shouldn't need to dub out much over board on lintels and if so use bonding for that.
Personally I'd make them bigger then dab them on to correct depth when floating tac into lintels when it's gon off for belt and braces.

It'll be bone dry before you finish so wait till it's dry, SBR (diluted not neat) it first then let that dry the PVA and finish. No need for grit.
 
By the way hardwall or bonding coat alone should be 8-10mm then finish on to of that so you might need to build out your stringer.
 
Pop the architraves off and get a chippy out to extend the door frames. You can do the same with the string. Then dab it all.

Hardwall is utter shite.
 
bobbybilly said:
Good Evening Gentlemen

Just got around to doing the Hall Stairs and landing.
!937 built house.

Knocked of all the old plaster and have now got a dilemma.

Can't Dab it as the existing door frames and stairs have not got enough space.

There are the original wooden lintels above door frames etc. so these will have to be boarded.

Was going to float it with Hardwall but it appears that Hardwall doesn't like plasterboard.

If I use Bonding what ratio of PVA should I seal the brickwork with.

I am slower than rising damp so the float coat will be dryer than Gandi's flipflop.

I will be using SBR and Green Grit on the existing boarded parts ( didn't know they had plasterboard in 1937)

Is it ok to SBR and Grit the Bonding.

Cheers Rob
Click to expand...
The original lintels want eml on then floating out . I'd grease bonding over the eml then float the rest in hardwall . Make sure you give that lintel a good soaking of water aswell or it'll crack its b*ll***s off . If not do as @FreeD said make life simpler for your self
 
essexandy said:
I'm pretty sure if he's willing to f**k up the plastering, he won't be paying a chippy for such a basic task.
Click to expand...
Sorry mate can't help taking the p--s.

I won't f--k up the plastering. Ok I'm a DIY but I have done quite a bit.
And yes I wouldn't trust a chippy to build me a dog kennel.
Our dog is very particular about his house.

I have done some plastering a long time ago.

I was a plasterers labourer back in the early 80's. Fooking hardest job I have ever done.
Spend all day shoveling sand, cement and lime into the mixer and then shoveling back onto the spot.

Finish hahaha none of this namby pamby electric whisk s**t. It was a blunger and a stick.

Get any lumps in it and you got a right bo--ing.
 
bobbybilly said:
Sorry mate can't help taking the p--s.

I won't f--k up the plastering. Ok I'm a DIY but I have done quite a bit.
And yes I wouldn't trust a chippy to build me a dog kennel.
Our dog is very particular about his house.

I have done some plastering a long time ago.

I was a plasterers labourer back in the early 80's. Fooking hardest job I have ever done.
Spend all day shoveling sand, cement and lime into the mixer and then shoveling back onto the spot.

Finish hahaha none of this namby pamby electric whisk s**t. It was a blunger and a stick.

Get any lumps in it and you got a right bo--ing.
Click to expand...

Good luck Bob - Rob not going to talk you out of it because the more f**k ups there are out there the more work there is to go around (and it costs more to put right)
 
Hardwall float and set

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bobbybilly said:
Sorry mate can't help taking the p--s.

I won't f--k up the plastering. Ok I'm a DIY but I have done quite a bit.
And yes I wouldn't trust a chippy to build me a dog kennel.
Our dog is very particular about his house.

I have done some plastering a long time ago.

I was a plasterers labourer back in the early 80's. Fooking hardest job I have ever done.
Spend all day shoveling sand, cement and lime into the mixer and then shoveling back onto the spot.

Finish hahaha none of this namby pamby electric whisk s**t. It was a blunger and a stick.

Get any lumps in it and you got a right bo--ing.
Click to expand...
So you was a plasterers labourer in the 80s which was the hardest job you’ve ever done now some what 30 years later you want to labourer again aswell as float a Hsl at the same time,not disputing your good at diy but floating a hsl it won’t end well,but as your adamant I would say use bonding,your going to be to slow to use hardwall
 
Stewie03 said:
So you was a plasterers labourer in the 80s which was the hardest job you’ve ever done now some what 30 years later you want to labourer again aswell as float a Hsl at the same time,not disputing your good at diy but floating a hsl it won’t end well,but as your adamant I would say use bonding,your going to be to slow to use hardwall
Click to expand...

A ball breaker
 
essexandy said:
To be fair if Chrispy can do it, anyone can do it.
Click to expand...
Wouldn’t want to do it too often Mr B. Knackering on your own. Was lucky as well as I picked up about 20 odd bags of in date hardwall locally off a contractor for a few shekels. The lord provided at the right time!
 
The Apprentice said:
High suction such as brick or blockwork it should be Hardwall. Bits that are boarded you can put some EML on it and Hardwall straight over.
Click to expand...

I removed the klinker blocks above the bedroom doorways as not load bearing and were falling to bits anyway. Studded with 2x2 and boarded and bonded off cuts of pb in to the cavity to make it denser. Render meshed and bonding blended in to the hardwall. No cracks to date.
 
ChrispyUK said:
I removed the klinker blocks above the bedroom doorways as not load bearing and were falling to bits anyway. Studded with 2x2 and boarded and bonded off cuts of pb in to the cavity to make it denser. Render meshed and bonding blended in to the hardwall. No cracks to date.
Click to expand...
What page of the diary is this gem of information on mate?
 
ChrispyUK said:
It’s in the stud wall over a door section Mr B…page 20037.
Click to expand...
Ah excellent. It is getting a little difficult to see the page numbers on my 'reading' copy and I really don't want to open my leather bound collectors edition. Probably should just pay the extra for a pdf copy as well.
 
essexandy said:
Ah excellent. It is getting a little difficult to see the page numbers on my 'reading' copy and I really don't want to open my leather bound collectors edition. Probably should just pay the extra for a pdf copy as well.
Click to expand...
Yes, the leather bound addition should be pride of place in the bookshelf for every good tradesman. In fact, my local BCO came to inspect a job the other day with a copy under his arm. I was going to offer to sign it for him, but he didn’t ask as I guess he was a bit too starstruck. I found it later as he’d placed it on top of the skip so I might find it and signed it for when he next visits.
 
ChrispyUK said:
Yes, the leather bound addition should be pride of place in the bookshelf for every good tradesman. In fact, my local BCO came to inspect a job the other day with a copy under his arm. I was going to offer to sign it for him, but he didn’t ask as I guess he was a bit too starstruck. I found it later as he’d placed it on top of the skip so I might find it and signed it for when he next visits.
Click to expand...
What colour crayon did you choose to sign it with?
 
Hi Lads
Not had chance to do anything as the Wife tripped over a dodgy pavement and in the words of the Consultant in A&E destroyed her ankle with 3 breaks.
Anyway. The wooden lintels and wall plate are about 10mm from the brick face.

So can I fix plasterboard to the wood and then float the wall. If I use hardwall can I EML the plasterboard and then float or do I need to use Bonding.

I would prefer to float it as Dot and dab will be a ball ache as 'll have to build out the door frames and Stair Stringer.

Thanks :)
 
bobbybilly said:
Hi Lads
Not had chance to do anything as the Wife tripped over a dodgy pavement and in the words of the Consultant in A&E destroyed her ankle with 3 breaks.
Anyway. The wooden lintels and wall plate are about 10mm from the brick face.

So can I fix plasterboard to the wood and then float the wall. If I use hardwall can I EML the plasterboard and then float or do I need to use Bonding.

I would prefer to float it as Dot and dab will be a ball ache as 'll have to build out the door frames and Stair Stringer.

Thanks :)
Click to expand...

Sh*t sorry to hear about wife...will she get compo?
 
Not sure whether we can claim off the Council. If they had not left the pavement in such a state then she wouldn't have fell.

Going back to my floating query. I have found a sheet of cement board in the shed. Can I screw this to the wooden lintels and float over with Hardwall?
 
bobbybilly said:
Not sure whether we can claim off the Council. If they had not left the pavement in such a state then she wouldn't have fell.

Going back to my floating query. I have found a sheet of cement board in the shed. Can I screw this to the wooden lintels and float over with Hardwall?
Click to expand...
Building paper on the lintels and EML on top of it. Old plaster bags with the plastic left in does the same job as building paper
 
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