How you closing yours off. RSJ. Pics

hail hail

hail hail

Private Member
Need to fill this out for plastering over but there's no pre holed holes to bolt into.

Someone I know recommend just wedging some 3x1 into it, cut slightly bigger and hammer into place, screw play then expanded metal then plaster.

What I'm thinking about this method, surely the timber will shrink over time and could cause cracks.

Thought I'd run this by yous to see how you do it.
How you closing yours off. RSJ. Pics
 
Interior is just wedge then plasterboard and skim. Exterior I just done mine and wedged timber in then screwed cement board to it
 
hail hail said:
Just wedge in, no fixings?

What about the underside of it. How'd you attach the board to the rsj.

Any pics?
Click to expand...

Loads of options

An easy way is wedge noggins in flush then screw slate lat length ways at top and bottom to the nogging then can screw both cheak and headers.

Alternative screw boards to noggins screw cheeks let overhang then screw sideways to a lengths of slate lat then screw header to that and trim cheeks back after.

Or dab it all.
 
hail hail said:
Need to fill this out for plastering over but there's no pre holed holes to bolt into.

Someone I know recommend just wedging some 3x1 into it, cut slightly bigger and hammer into place, screw play then expanded metal then plaster.

What I'm thinking about this method, surely the timber will shrink over time and could cause cracks.

Thought I'd run this by yous to see how you do it.View attachment 34582
Click to expand...
I’d put felt between the ply and mesh.
 
  • Agree
Reactions: Djr
zombie said:
Loads of options

An easy way is wedge noggins in flush then screw slate lat length ways at top and bottom to the nogging then can screw both cheak and headers.

Alternative screw boards to noggins screw cheeks let overhang then screw sideways to a lengths of slate lat then screw header to that and trim cheeks back after.

Or dab it all.
Click to expand...



Surely that'll throw it out even more than needed then a second scratch coat needed.
Maybe not but that's what I have in my head
 
How you closing yours off. RSJ. Pics

This is the gear - holds & fixes anything. I had to stick some pb 40mm off something, this did the job. I had a tube of that ‘Sticks like s**t’ gear and tried doing it with that and four hours later it was still wet and loose.
 

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What about this?
 
I've done a few of these, 6mm hardibacker, sbr it, instastick, base coat with mesh embedded.
 
Lastlaff said:
View attachment 34586
This is the gear - holds & fixes anything. I had to stick some pb 40mm off something, this did the job. I had a tube of that ‘Sticks like s**t’ gear and tried doing it with that and four hours later it was still wet and loose.
Click to expand...
40mm?! You just stick a few holes in the tube and wedge it behind the board?
 
zombie said:
Loads of options

An easy way is wedge noggins in flush then screw slate lat length ways at top and bottom to the nogging then can screw both cheak and headers.

Alternative screw boards to noggins screw cheeks let overhang then screw sideways to a lengths of slate lat then screw header to that and trim cheeks back after.

Or dab it all.
Click to expand...
I always dot mine internally.( @essexandy will give me a slap on wrist ). Gets rid of a few off cuts as well lol
 
No matter what way u do it. U still have a good chance of getting a hairline crack tbh. I'd use cementboard and fiber mesh. But timber felt and mesh will do the Same job.
 
theclemo said:
No matter what way u do it. U still have a good chance of getting a hairline crack tbh. I'd use cementboard and fiber mesh. But timber felt and mesh will do the Same job.
Click to expand...


Have never used fiber mesh on sand and cement or even seen it used. Only skim or EWI. Is it the same stuff or a different type used for sand and cement
 
hail hail said:
If 3x2 noggins sitting out like this, surely it'll need another scratch if it's sitting out 1/2 inch plus the timber or cement board that's screwd onto the timber.
Click to expand...

Sticks out just enough to screw and stick timber underneath. I cement board and lath the ext then sbr slurry, scratch ext. and plaster board int. Or just board all faces iff internal beam.Works for me.
 
Was thinking of this thread today so took few pics as do fair few of these. I cut noggins and wedge in. Mark rsj. Board sides n purposely over cut board to trim after as sometimes ceilings off. Mark over hanged board where noggins are. Screws lid in. Cut excess flush. Double board or fireboard.

Ballache hate doing em but shouldn’t take more than 30 mins
How you closing yours off. RSJ. Pics
How you closing yours off. RSJ. Pics
How you closing yours off. RSJ. Pics
How you closing yours off. RSJ. Pics
How you closing yours off. RSJ. Pics
 
lurpak said:
Was thinking of this thread today so took few pics as do fair few of these. I cut noggins and wedge in. Mark rsj. Board sides n purposely over cut board to trim after as sometimes ceilings off. Mark over hanged board where noggins are. Screws lid in. Cut excess flush. Double board or fireboard.

Ballache hate doing em but shouldn’t take more than 30 mins
View attachment 35134View attachment 35135View attachment 35136View attachment 35137View attachment 35138
Click to expand...


Cheers for the pics however it's an external rsj. What I did was run 2x1 battens along the bottom and top inside with ct1 spread on it. Wedged them with 3x2 noggings. Once set, I covered 12mm wbp ply in breathable felt and screwed into the noggings and 2x1. Covered the face in expanded metal. Underside I used ct1 and tech7 and acros to keep the pressure on when setting. Also screwd the sides to the battens that where sitting out abit. The felt that was hanging down, I covered the wbp play then nailed the expanded metal on.

All looks ok however I've now got the 12mm ply sitting proud. I'll have float another scratch coat to build out plus on my reveal, it'll be 12mm out more. I suppose it's just how it is. I was thinking of keeping it flush However I wouldn't have have the battens to screw into that was sitting out for screwing the underside.

Pics to follow soon for future reference for others.
 
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