I don't devil float , I use neat sharp , leaves a course open surface
You rub up earlier than me
I don't devil float , I use neat sharp , leaves a course open surface
I've done very little s/c for past 20 y , not a solo game unfortunately , been overskimming and dryliningdo you skim quicker then you float ?
I've done very little s/c for past 20 y , not a solo game unfortunately , been overskimming and drylining
Anyone who thinks that way Malc shows a serious lack of understanding of the trade and has served no time as an apprentice or even some form of learning from proper spreads .IMO............just sayingi always devil float mine, but a lot of plasterers now float up smooth they say that multi keys to plasterboard . therefore why do you want to put a load of lines which will slow your skimming down ?
we where sharing a site with a gang from Southend,who floated up smooth, we floated a lot quicker then them but they came back on the skimming. overall about the same areas and same time.
I loved floating s/c it's the mixing and lugging upstairs that's the drawback , working on refurbs it's not common to have a tip of sand outside the front door , dab simplifies thingsi find that i can float quicker then i can dot and dab.
Anyone who thinks that way Malc shows a serious lack of understanding of the trade and has served no time as an apprentice or even some form of learning from proper spreads .IMO............just saying
My dad devil floated but I don't think it's necessary on sharp , the surface is covered in plenty of pores , soft sand I can understand as the surface is smooth with no grab but I won't use iti know what you are saying .when i was an apprentice every wall was devil floated as it was needed for sirapite. they are saying that multi has better adhesion therefore no need to devil.
My dad devil floated but I don't think it's necessary on sharp , the surface is covered in plenty of pores , soft sand I can understand as the surface is smooth with no grab but I won't use it
I like a devil scratch. Run the float over and press the backing coat it in a bit, knock off any small high spots and get the key.
That’s weird isn’t it? Go to the effort of putting a float on it but not key the surface? Obviously they don’t like the scratch in the surface taking more plaster to skim over.they are still putting a float over the wall but no scratch.
then they are wrong but i will except i am wrong if @BritishGypsum would like to comment. who is at fault if the skim coat shells off,will bad plasterers just blame the muti and not there lack of knowledge and skill.i know what you are saying .when i was an apprentice every wall was devil floated as it was needed for sirapite. they are saying that multi has better adhesion therefore no need to devil.
then they are wrong but i will except i am wrong if @BritishGypsum would like to comment
they do if they recommend to use board finish on it . They class it as a low suction background.British gypsum don't recognise sand and cement as an acceptable backing coat. it needs to be the complete British gypsum system
You gotta get that dabbing game up to speed matei find that i can float quicker then i can dot and dab.
they do if they recommend to use board finish on it . They class it as a low suction background.
Both myself and several of the guys that worked for me did full houses f&s with s&c.I've done very little s/c for past 20 y , not a solo game unfortunately , been overskimming and drylining
It's just like the great mystery of skimming dry PVA lolSo hardly anyone gives a f**k about shrinkage/curing times, no one in the history of plastering has suffered any delamination, and yet there are hundreds, nay, thousands of houses out there with shelled skimming.
Something's not adding up.
Don’t you find that a lot of domestics where the top coat has blown is down to no key? We quite often do it seems the walls were devilled while wet which just closed it in and didnt scratch it, then later the top coat comes off. I was always taught to scour my floating welli always devil float mine, but a lot of plasterers now float up smooth they say that multi keys to plasterboard . therefore why do you want to put a load of lines which will slow your skimming down ?
we where sharing a site with a gang from Southend,who floated up smooth, we floated a lot quicker then them but they came back on the skimming. overall about the same areas and same time.
Rule off , the large grits scour the surface , no need to devil float as it just closed it all back up , leave till well firm and gentle float to just press high spot grains inDon’t you find that a lot of domestics where the top coat has blown is down to no key? We quite often do it seems the walls were devilled while wet which just closed it in and didnt scratch it, then later the top coat comes off. I was always taught to scour my floating well
We just give it a good scouring with a devil float not when it’s wet as that’s when it closes in plus we use screws and not thin arsed nails that push back out over time also use a plywood float rather than plasticRule off , the large grits scour the surface , no need to devil float as it just closed it all back up , leave till well firm and gentle float to just press high spot grains in
More all over surface grab IMO
I think it's the timing causing the issue ( coupled with too small and regular grit size ) , as you say , people are closing in the surface when wet and relying on the devil lines , the other areas between are not a good bond surfaceWe just give it a good scouring with a devil float not when it’s wet as that’s when it closes in plus we use screws and not thin arsed nails that push back out over time also use a plywood float rather than plastic
Very rare thing me disagreeing with you me old mate!Don’t you find that a lot of domestics where the top coat has blown is down to no key? We quite often do it seems the walls were devilled while wet which just closed it in and didnt scratch it, then later the top coat comes off. I was always taught to scour my floating well
We always use double washed but it doesn’t seem as good as it used to be leaves a lot more colour on your hand when you squeeze the sand than it used to. I was taught to scratch well on any floated surface, I guess it depends on who taught you and most importantly wether it works or not. I must say I know how young Jessica feels now with you disagreeingVery rare thing me disagreeing with you me old mate!
I've seen loads of shelled finish where there has been a really deep scratch. If the floating coat is still shrinking at the time it's skimmed it will be shelled to some degree or other. Personally I use a very, very light scratch.
Choosing sand is, IMO, the most important thing to do when floating with s&c. The more silt content, the more shrinkage you'll get. Even with a good sand you'll get 2-4mm of shrinkage at 16mm floating thickness.
Bloody ridiculous that I’ve heard of catching green suction before but that’s going well over the topI have seen posted on here that some skim sand and cement the same day ................The mind boggles.