IWI on 9" solid wall

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Completed a job to spec from recticel in August 2012 did some plastering early December 2015 for same customer, no problems, our work looked fine

Possibly still got the email from recticel telling me to pin direct to solid with 9-12 wall pins.
 
Mac you did right. These are big companies with scientific research behind them and they're giving out specs so go with what they say (y)
 
mac_plastering said:
Completed a job to spec from recticel in August 2012 did some plastering early December 2015 for same customer, no problems, our work looked fine

Possibly still got the email from recticel telling me to pin direct to solid with 9-12 wall pins.
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This is why I was asking if anyone had problems after in stall it's such a big subject lets say you use bg boards they have a guide knauff have another way and both there specs if I am correct have changed with time chuck in the mix some valid points from peeps on here and possibly and ewi guys view on iwi and the poor plasterer on a job is left thinking am I doing the right thing never mind a customer even getting anywhere close to understanding.
 
If it looks right on paper, must be right. The big companies are putting big money's in every project and it will cost them if repair has to be done. Therefore minimising the risk is crutual . Many times I was thinking what a bs, but at the end of the day is the spec and they are right and I have to follow the spec , which allows me to leave the job without worries .
 
Looking into thesmallest details and going trough the feedbacks , with all this years of experience and info , the spec is a must I have concluded .
 
vfr12 said:
Looking into thesmallest details and going trough the feedbacks , with all this years of experience and info , the spec is a must I have concluded .
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Who's spec though?

Mine is a private job, in my experience at least, specs change from one to another, I'm more interested in hands on people's opinions.
I think it also matters on how much & how the house is going to be heated.
Just so many variables!


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BigK said:
Who's spec though?

Mine is a private job, in my experience at least, specs change from one to another, I'm more interested in hands on people's opinions.
I think it also matters on how much & how the house is going to be heated.
Just so many variables!


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Yes , you are right there. Every job is assessed and issued with method statement and specs. The spec I was talking about is on site job not private, where you have no other option but to follow .
 
Just looked on you tube and there is a canny variety of ways of installing IWI................so which is the correct fewkin way??..................i know, its all down to the manufacturers spec, but surely there must be some common ground for all systems...........................:endesacuerdo:
 
I like dabbing the metal stud on instead of battens. Can fly through it


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Arti said:
Just looked on you tube and there is a canny variety of ways of installing IWI................so which is the correct fewkin way??..................i know, its all down to the manufacturers spec, but surely there must be some common ground for all systems...........................:endesacuerdo:
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Right I start then anyone disagree or want to add points then fine.On vapour check bg or knauff.
I thought there should be a constant ribbon of dab across the top of and down furthest left board and furthest right board and across the width of the bottom of all the boards on that wall with addition dabs to support each board.The 2 or 3 plugs are for support of the board while drywall drys and also in case of fire.i have never used the plugs though that's just being honest I don't think they are necessary.
Just lately I have seen that most manufacturers say dab as normal standard boards which if is ok probably I thinking because the vapour check is in built on the better boards now that there is no worries about moisture because it will dissapate and not damage or come through the board.
 
Just a thought but i wouldnt have thought you could dab foil backed boards as they wouldnt stick the same way you wouldnt dab duplex. I assumed only foam/poly backed boards would stick. I always solid seal when im dabbing.
 
theplasterman said:
Right I start then anyone disagree or want to add points then fine.On vapour check bg or knauff.
I thought there should be a constant ribbon of dab across the top of and down furthest left board and furthest right board and across the width of the bottom of all the boards on that wall with addition dabs to support each board.The 2 or 3 plugs are for support of the board while drywall drys and also in case of fire.i have never used the plugs though that's just being honest I don't think they are necessary.
Just lately I have seen that most manufacturers say dab as normal standard boards which if is ok probably I thinking because the vapour check is in built on the better boards now that there is no worries about moisture because it will dissapate and not damage or come through the board.
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Alreet plasterer Pete av just sent you a tweet.................alreet
 
Arti said:
Just a thought but i wouldnt have thought you could dab foil backed boards as they wouldnt stick the same way you wouldnt dab duplex. I assumed only foam/poly backed boards would stick. I always solid seal when im dabbing.
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I thought we was talking thermaline plus or super...if it's foil forget what I said then lads I read this thread from start again,lol
 
No foil for me, just insulated backed boards with paper


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theplasterman said:
Thanks for the retweet
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how you got time for all the tweets and forum, whilst you churn out some decent jobs? I`m happy when me bum hits the sofa after a normal day, let alone when pricing, invoicing and chasing people. Have you got a secret clone?
 
im.well comfused.

whos using what and what method.

are we creating a cavity with dabs. or screw direct.to walls.

dabbing metal or.screwing battens.

ive always dabbed the boards. maybe 3-9 pinns for support and skim

i need closure!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Dansouthcoast84 said:
im.well comfused.

whos using what and what method.

are we creating a cavity with dabs. or screw direct.to walls.

dabbing metal or.screwing battens.

ive always dabbed the boards. maybe 3-9 pinns for support and skim

i need closure!!!!!!!!!!!
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any of that works if you specify, things change when you dictated what spec to follow, as long as you had no comebacks with your method you`ll be fine I`d say
 
Every job is different. Assess every job on its pro's and cons. As said before the one general rule of insulating is making sure that when you raise the heat and moisture content of the air then ventilation is necessary. Even if this is just opening a window for a couple of hours.
 
Rossi46 said:
Every job is different. Assess every job on its pro's and cons. As said before the one general rule of insulating is making sure that when you raise the heat and moisture content of the air then ventilation is necessary. Even if this is just opening a window for a couple of hours.
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Most sensible post on this thread.

And here Endeth the lesson


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zolco said:
how you got time for all the tweets and forum, whilst you churn out some decent jobs? I`m happy when me bum hits the sofa after a normal day, let alone when pricing, invoicing and chasing people. Have you got a secret clone?
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That was a genuine question not a p1sstake @theplasterman
 
The Apprentice said:
Doing a job and the surveyor told the customer not to use board adhesive on a9" solid wall as it attracts condensation. I can understand is issue if we weren't using insulated boards but surely with insulated boards you ain't going to get mould due to cold spots. Any advice or info I can pass to the customer to allay her fears please chaps would be appreciated.
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There's this new stuff I did last year with guy I know. Its moisture resistant insulation. You screw metal battens to the wall. The battens have spikes on them so you can push the insulation into. You then cover it with breathable waterproof membrane then screw the plasterboard to it. Think isover make the stuff if o can remember
 
paddy5 said:
Didnt use them in my own place either and haven't budged, they've really taken of here though. builders love'em , again takes twice the time so twice the price. Have ten bags of bonding in the shed at home that builders think have straightened their ceilings, have a bonfire twice a week to avoid suspicion, they think am really tidy around site, LOL. Now waiting for the gobshite to come with cheque , garunteed he won't show till 3bells.

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Some fcuked phoned fire brigade on us one day we lit a fire. 300euro bill we got for it! Anytime fire brigade calls out to anyone here in Ireland, you have to pay for it. Even if your house burnt down!
 
BigK said:
Anyway, I've a job coming up, about a two foot solid stone wall, he wants a coat of s&c over the stone and finished with insulation boards.
I'd like an opinion off the experts here on the best system please!



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Look into that isover system. That's great for stone walls.
 
Anytime fire brigade calls out to anyone here in Ireland, you have to pay for it. Even if your house burnt down![/QUOTE]

Love an aul insurance job meself aswel
:bailando:
 
theplasterman said:
Sorry zolco tweet just takes a quick picture and few comments it's done...forum I do when Mrs is watching crap on t.v plus I got no kids so probably have more time on my hands than most people my age,lol
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If you listen to me you go for adoption, get a 16yrs old so you can have a cheap labourer, and you can still prickle your Mrs whenever you feel like ;)
 
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