You’ve still not answered the question lol[/QUOTE sorry Tom
keep the info coming !Pozzolans indeed are speeding things, but not in the way you are imagining it. They are used mainly with air lime due to the time it takes to set and cure. This type of lime is very vulnerable in the first hours and days after. Great care should be taken to get it right and pozzolans alone will not guarantee success no matter what. What pozzolans do is giving you the start you need. Mixed with water they don’t react, but mixed with lime - big time. How reactive pozzolana is depends on the grain size- the smaller the biger surface for reaction. They need to be used with great care because they change the lime structure and reduce permeability and flexibility. Every bagged render on the market contains silica and alumina. I have started a test yearly this year to see if I am right to think today’s render does not come close to the traditional lime plaster. The first test wasn’t conducted 28 days and the second 6 months after. Favourite so far is the mix with vulcanic ash and second is with argical
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[ here is more for u the myth in the mix same link as above ] lime plaster Wikipedia .org ] htpp://ihbc.org.uk/context archive/53/limemortar dir/limemortar s.htm] htpp://www.roundtowerlime.com/ technical/internal-plastering
Thanks Norman,will have a look later[ here is more for u the myth in the mix same link as above ] lime plaster Wikipedia .org ] htpp://ihbc.org.uk/context archive/53/limemortar dir/limemortar s.htm] htpp://www.roundtowerlime.com/ technical/internal-plastering
Very interesting this lime it’s new fad in the game you heard it first ! Im definitely jumping on this lime bandwagon down with the gypsum everyone is always moaning about there products jump on board lads. LolThanks Norman,will have a look later
Very interesting this lime it’s new fad in the game you heard it first ! Im definitely jumping on this lime bandwagon down with the gypsum everyone is always moaning about there products jump on board lads. Lol
Don’t think it’s a regional thing my theory is based on trends 10 years ago renders were no were near as popular these old buildings need more repairs and lime is the way forward.by the way I’m not experienced in lime but I’m learning!In 20 years ive never been ased to apply a lime mix on any job internal or external maybe its a regional thing?
Don’t think it’s a regional thing my theory is based on trends 10 years ago renders were no were near as popular these old buildings need more repairs and lime is the way forward.by the way I’m not experienced in lime but I’m learning!
It’s selling thing zombie, you have to sell it to the customer. Price is putting people of . With all the info and case studies I have come across I realise traditional Lime plastering done right is way superior than any modern plaster /render now days . Was thinking way back parex is the richest in lime, hence my favourite, and they will give you let’s say 10 years. The bag is full with additives to help quick and secure set , but that has its cost of course, where lime needs 5+ years to get its full strength and after that can get only better . I have mentioned before the period and strength limes can achieve. Cement based mixture can do that in half time and after 5 years, if lucky, they start deteriorating- way way shorter life than lime, but in reality suits everyone- cheaper and keep us all running. The case studies are pointing at the hot lime and cement used for the old buildings as the biggest mistake ever and they have learned from it. So , question now is how do you convince the op that if his house has been built with hot lime decades ago ,doesn’t mean it’s the best thing for him to do now?In 20 years ive never been ased to apply a lime mix on any job internal or external maybe its a regional thing?
It’s to make it go off quicker some use brick dust@vfr12 what are pozzolans? I’ve looked it up but there were a lot of big words and it’s late and a layman’s explanation would be nice please?
looks like your ok for work for a while. are you putting it back together with lime plasterAll of the above will lead to complete failure, not in distant future. As I have mentioned it before it starts with cracks and finishes as sectioned plaster
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Doing the ceiling with wood wool boards and hemp lime , finished with R50 . Walls with Bauwer light.looks like your ok for work for a while. are you putting it back together with lime plaster
Doing the ceiling with wood wool boards and hemp lime , finished with R50 . Walls with Bauwer light.
Doing the ceiling with wood wool boards and hemp lime , finished with R50 . Walls with Bauwer light.
The right place is the one where you’ll get an answerHi. Am considering using the exact same materials as you in a renovation project in Lancaster. Would be really interested to hear your thoughts/experiences of use and comparisons. Specifically, how hard is Bauwer light in terms of taking knocks and bangs over a standard gypsum plaster. What was your experience in terms of depth of layers, how many layers and time to dry?
Apologies if this isn't the right place to ask...!
Forgot to ask are you a customer or trade? You need to find someone who knows what is doing or this will cost you a fortune. If trade- practice on a wall and make sure you understand the product before you continue or disaster will strike you down. And to avoid all this all you have to do is keep posting take the banter, don’t mention politics and bulk your posts until you have access to the private section, then you’ll see my review and guidelines on Bauwer light. Now , since we got that of the way..... did you vote stay or leave ?Hi. Am considering using the exact same materials as you in a renovation project in Lancaster. Would be really interested to hear your thoughts/experiences of use and comparisons. Specifically, how hard is Bauwer light in terms of taking knocks and bangs over a standard gypsum plaster. What was your experience in terms of depth of layers, how many layers and time to dry?
Apologies if this isn't the right place to ask...!
The right place is the one where you’ll get an answer
Bauwer light is one of the best, if not the best , materials I have come across. It’s very soft, but then you have Bauwer finish with mesh over it and r50 , in my case, which makes it way way better than any gypsum plaster. Actually there is no room for comparison. The ceiling has resisted overnight leek with huge 1.2m dripping spot next day and all that is left now is smal discolouration here and there, but thats not a problem as the paint will sort it out.
If your house hapens to get submerged for 6 months, can give the same guarantee for the ceiling, but the wall with Bauwer light will need probably only refreshing paint, that’s all.
For the internal walls, separating rooms etc, you need at least25mm Bauwer light and by the time is finished you’ll add another 5-10mm which I think is plenty. External walls,internal with external contact, 40mm Bauwer light. It’s a long winded process, but time wise is quicker than traditional Lime plastering. Not the cheapest on the market, but defo the best!
The whole system is 4 coats- spatter, Bauwer light, Bauwer finish and finishing coat, which can be different. Drying time 3-5 days, but achieving full strength-1-2 months.
Forgot to ask are you a customer or trade? You need to find someone who knows what is doing or this will cost you a fortune. If trade- practice on a wall and make sure you understand the product before you continue or disaster will strike you down. And to avoid all this all you have to do is keep posting take the banter, don’t mention politics and bulk your posts until you have access to the private section, then you’ll see my review and guidelines on Bauwer light. Now , since we got that of the way..... did you vote stay or leave ?
Forgot to ask are you a customer or trade? You need to find someone who knows what is doing or this will cost you a fortune. If trade- practice on a wall and make sure you understand the product before you continue or disaster will strike you down. And to avoid all this all you have to do is keep posting take the banter, don’t mention politics and bulk your posts until you have access to the private section, then you’ll see my review and guidelines on Bauwer light. Now , since we got that of the way..... did you vote stay or leave ?
Stick around for the abuseAlso, did anyone consider that naming it the 'private section' sounds all a bit euphemistic? I'm just glad you specified it as 'the' rather than 'my'.
Bauwer system is spatter-light-finish-GB1 as finishing coat. Someone like me who can chuck any s**t on the wall will get creative and make tweaks and make sure is up to the standard. R50 is bagged eco lime . I am in the process to offer and clay finish with it . R50 doesn't need painting if you are after white finish . For the clay finish you can chose the colour and aggregate before hand so no painting at all.Really helpful post - thank you. It turns out I came to the right place...
In my case, I need a 30mm build so figured a 25mm Bauwer light plus Bauwer finish would be ideal. Why do you recommend another finishing coat or are you separating the membrane coat and final finish coat, both of which are in Bauwer Finish?
Potential dumb question - What is R50?
Lastly - how long before you paint?
not a clue what eupheeeeeeeee means for fcks sake im a plasterer not English teacherStick around for the abuse
I am googling it for you now Normannot a clue what eupheeeeeeeee means for fcks sake im a plasterer not English teacher
The right place is the one where you’ll get an answer
Bauwer light is one of the best, if not the best , materials I have come across. It’s very soft, but then you have Bauwer finish with mesh over it and r50 , in my case, which makes it way way better than any gypsum plaster. Actually there is no room for comparison. The ceiling has resisted overnight leek with huge 1.2m dripping spot next day and all that is left now is smal discolouration here and there, but thats not a problem as the paint will sort it out.
If your house hapens to get submerged for 6 months, can give the same guarantee for the ceiling, but the wall with Bauwer light will need probably only refreshing paint, that’s all.
For the internal walls, separating rooms etc, you need at least25mm Bauwer light and by the time is finished you’ll add another 5-10mm which I think is plenty. External walls,internal with external contact, 40mm Bauwer light. It’s a long winded process, but time wise is quicker than traditional Lime plastering. Not the cheapest on the market, but defo the best!
The whole system is 4 coats- spatter, Bauwer light, Bauwer finish and finishing coat, which can be different. Drying time 3-5 days, but achieving full strength-1-2 months.
It all sounds good. Bare in mind it’s not cheap . There are some alternatives with lime .Inside walls still conduct heat.Weirdly enough I'll be doing almost the exact same thing as Xeres at some point in the new year. Well, in a mid rather than end terrace and with the back of the house needing a new render too. Not too far from Lancaster either, small world...
My initial guess was to go 100mm thick with external render at the back, then 25mm internally. Then just 100mm internally at the front, is that ridiculous?
For the internal without external contact I didn't realise that Bauwer light would be needed, what's the need for an insulated plaster on internal walls? It's already going to be a decent sized job, potentially the whole house 110m2 of floor space maybe 300m2 of wall space (at a guesstimate), I was hoping for something a bit cheaper for the internal walls without external contact!
Apologies for sniping into this thread!