Lime/hemp plaster

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Upstairs they used 15mm wood wool boards on the ceilings with no mesh. However downstairs they used 25mm.
Will the ceilings downstairs need 2 coats with mesh in the first bearing in mind there is underfloor heating upstairs and obviously traffic?

Also do the timber lintels above the windows need to be treated with anything prior to plastering?

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Don't know much about meshing them Danny, but be very careful you don't put too much weight on them ceiling boards :RpS_thumbup:
 
Have you been able to get over some of the better walls with one pass bubbles or do you find it easier to get a nice finish with a scratch.

I am finding it tough to price without this knowledge to be honest.

This is one of the better walls.

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DannyMac said:
Upstairs they used 15mm wood wool boards on the ceilings with no mesh. However downstairs they used 25mm.
Will the ceilings downstairs need 2 coats with mesh in the first bearing in mind there is underfloor heating upstairs and obviously traffic?

Also do the timber lintels above the windows need to be treated with anything prior to plastering?

Link Removed
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How are you fixing them boards to the ceiling?
 
DannyMac said:
Upstairs they used 15mm wood wool boards on the ceilings with no mesh. However downstairs they used 25mm.
Will the ceilings downstairs need 2 coats with mesh in the first bearing in mind there is underfloor heating upstairs and obviously traffic?

Also do the timber lintels above the windows need to be treated with anything prior to plastering?

Link Removed
Click to expand...

What sort of mesh do you use danny ?? is it like render mesh or EML type mesh
 
DannyMac said:
Have you been able to get over some of the better walls with one pass bubbles or do you find it easier to get a nice finish with a scratch.

I am finding it tough to price without this knowledge to be honest.

This is one of the better walls.
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No, I wouldn't ever try to do them in one coat. You need to be in full control of the suction and would have little chance with one coat mate :RpS_thumbup:
 
DannyMac said:
Upstairs they used 15mm wood wool boards on the ceilings with no mesh. However downstairs they used 25mm.
Will the ceilings downstairs need 2 coats with mesh in the first bearing in mind there is underfloor heating upstairs and obviously traffic?

Also do the timber lintels above the windows need to be treated with anything prior to plastering?
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You'd be best off asking the suppliers about working close to an underfloor heating system Danny.
Timber lintols should be covered with either a reed mat, loads of nails with heads on them or laths laid out in a checkered pattern so that the plaster mix can get under it to grab hold :RpS_thumbup:
 
DannyMac said:
They recommend this stuff Link Removed but I reckon tv10 would be just as good and cheaper.
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aye, defo looks just like render mesh, found some on ebay dont know how the price compares like.(broken link removed)
 
I'm not sure! I ain't that experienced at it Danny :RpS_crying:
All I can tell you is about the ones that I know will work.

We need a lime section on here, it is definitely a growing sector :RpS_thumbup:
 
DannyMac said:
That's about £10 cheaper than what I was quoted for tv10, and just as good I'd bet.
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Its from germany danny so it will have that vorsprung dork technic. so its probably mustard stuff marra.....:RpS_thumbup:
 
That is is the one from Knauf good gear I use it all the time on repairs were lath work is involved.
 
Well we start back there tomorrow.

Gonna 6mm fine hemp the ceilings with mesh combed in and top with another 6mm fine.

Is there any reason not to lap the mesh down the walls? Seeing as the ceiling and walls will be done seperately and therefore there'll be no binding of the hemp.

Also how wet does the substate need to be before the scratch. I was reading (book recommended by bubbles, cheers mate) that porous walls need saturating the day before.

In this part of the house the substrate is soft brick and will suck like hell I'd imagine.

Is there any reason why a very weak PVA should not be used?

The walls will be scratched with ~15mm medium hemp and topped with 6mm fine.
 
have you had a look at the K lime natural hydraulic lime mortar - offered by K rend - we can offer a technical spec for rendering onto hempcrete.
 
looks mustard mate wish i could do lime work its just something ive never been asked to do so never got to learn it:RpS_blushing:
 
Sorry to resurrect an old thread boys.
but would like to know if you used a scrim/ jute on the joints of the woolwood boards . Done lime work before but never worked onto these boards and they seem far from rigid to me . They`re 15mm boards onto 6 x2 at 400 centres , sort of think i ought to use jute but theres an awful lot of joints and dont want to f**k about if theres no need.
 
mayti said:
of hemp is the same principals has lime mortar no cement as this wii not let your wall breath,

how can a wall breathe, it has not got lungs. so it cannot breathe air? the only thing a wall can breathe is water which enters a wall then evaporates
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Nice work m8!! nice corners...the job i did with ty mawr's fine hemp lime produced a more light green finish in the end, yours seems to have gone off a nice white/cream colour??...Did u protect round the masonry and all adjacent timber??
 
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