painted block

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level1plasterer

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hi guys, hope your all well and enjoying the weather, ok so i have not been plastering for long!! but hope i can pick your brains for the following, i am working in a warehouse and have been asked by my employer to do the plastering in the common room where all the staff have lunch breaks to make it more pleasant, now the issue is...... i only have a level 1 but when i applied for the job i sold myself on the plastering, don't get me wrong i can do it and have done my parents house and feel competent enough to do it, its just when my boss took me to the room i was a bit like hmmmm how do i do this... take a look and please any advice is appreciated thanks, he asked me to dry line it and skim it which i can do but I'm wondering, am i better off just skimming it straight onto the painted block after pva? thanks in advance guys
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Is that ha you can try skimming it after paving but its all gonna fall of wall or ha u gonna die when you get it ripped out of you cos it looked better before you ruined it. Any ideas how much plaster im gonna need its right foot high and two rooms 13 x 12 x 8 and 13 x 10th x 8 foot cheers
 
level1plasterer said:
Is that ha you can try skimming it after paving but its all gonna fall of wall or ha u gonna die when you get it ripped out of you cos it looked better before you ruined it. Any ideas how much plaster im gonna need its right foot high and two rooms 13 x 12 x 8 and 13 x 10th x 8 foot cheers
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ha as in what the **** are u doing u wally
 
LMAO Nick, board it and skim. Take those plastic idiot corner protectors off first, or just leave em on.....who cares.
 
DannyMac said:
LMAO Nick, board it and skim. Take those plastic idiot corner protectors off first, or just leave em on.....who cares.
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ok so il take the corners off then use dry wall adhesive to get the boards up check with a spirit level to make sure the boards are straight and then just scrim tape pva and skim and finished is it really that easy
 
nickelarse said:
ha as in what the **** are u doing u wally
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thanks nick for reminding me why i was unemployed before i got this job and also for reminding me why i am soon to be unemployed if i mess this up, thats why I'm desperate to get this right cos i just wanna support my little one year old and have some stability
 
No need to pva the boards. Dont bother with level too much either.

You will need an Equity card before attempting anything..... and a flowery frock to work in.
 
DannyMac said:
No need to pva the boards. Dont bother with level too much either.

You will need an Equity card before attempting anything..... and a flowery frock to work in.
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equity card? i have a cscs card is the equity card interest free ;-) and the flowery frock can i wait till the winter sales ;-)
 
danny will the dry wall adhesive stick the boards to the painted block don't they need a key to hold them up? like a bonding agent? also is bonding agent -bonding plaster or is it pva or wba? cheers
 
level1plasterer said:
danny will the dry wall adhesive stick the boards to the painted block don't they need a key to hold them up? like a bonding agent? also is bonding agent -bonding plaster or is it pva or wba? cheers
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The drywall adhesive will stick to those walls like sh1t to a blanket without the need of PVA or WBA (wickes bonding agent).

Bonding compound = drywall adhesive

bonding coat = sticky backing plaster which would be the equivalent of sticking plasterboards to your walls. (much more skill involved dont bother)
 
Your boss .will soon be your exboss if you f##k up ,don,t run before you can walk ,your idea of setting over it says it all .Tell your Boss you will get a plasterer in and to cut the cost you will help him out ,you learn abit more, and your boss is happy
 
you wont get a good bond on the painted walls with drywall pal! go to a timber yard buy some 2x1 screw it to the wall at 400mm centres, srew plaster boards to the batons and skim it ! job done no problems!!
 
brimplas1 said:
you wont get a good bond on the painted walls with drywall pal! go to a timber yard buy some 2x1 screw it to the wall at 400mm centres, srew plaster boards to the batons and skim it ! job done no problems!!
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Absolute b*ll***s, drywall/bonding compound will be just fine.
 
This is going to be a huge task for a novice that doesnt know what hes doin, try and get help as mentioned earlier because you will fook it up if you aint done anything like this before. what paint is it on the blockwork? if its just matt emulsion board adhesive will stick to em. if its more of a silk/glossy paint use BG Bond It or Knauf Betokontact to provide a key. As Bubble65 said Other option is use Gypliner brackets wall liner system but this is still going to be tricky for a novice. As for timber battens this will probably be easiest option for you as you can take you time, fix timber battens to the wall at 400 or 600 centres and then fix plasterboards to battens then skim. And remember your job depends on this....... Goodluck:RpS_wink:
 
Boarding it seems to be with the majority on here but I was meaning, paint with bondit or WBA or blue grit(all bonding agents) then coat of bonding Plaster then once that has set 2coats of Multi. Your on your own from there though
 
dmplastering said:
Boarding it seems to be with the majority on here but I was meaning, paint with bondit or WBA or blue grit(all bonding agents) then coat of bonding Plaster then once that has set 2coats of Multi. Your on your own from there though
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easy for a plasterer but not for a level 1 courser
 
Wind up.....only a nobhead off here would call themselves "level1courser".......guess who:RpS_biggrin:
 
Stick boards to the Walls and skim it if the boards need to be on tight then use dry fix form adhesive and skim it
 
bubbles65 said:
I was referring to timber battens and boards on top, ready for skimming, but you can have a play with these if you like:


http://www.british-gypsum.com/pdf/WB09_GypLyner_UNIVERSAL_Walls_07.pdf
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timber battens seems like a good idea and then boards on but then I'm thinking I'm quite good at applying browning so i could just use the browning and skim over (but then I'm worried will the browning stick to the paint once its had a few coat of pva) if you think thats too much risk il just do the battens and boards and scrim, i know i can do this i just wanna be clear in my mind on monday what plan of action i am going to take. I am confident with browning and skim i have a straight edge so can monitor its straight and will check its nail deep throughout but do you know if i have to leave a key in the browning once its with a plastering fork or should i just leave it smooth for the skim?
 
DannyMac said:
The drywall adhesive will stick to those walls like sh1t to a blanket without the need of PVA or WBA (wickes bonding agent).

Bonding compound = drywall adhesive

bonding coat = sticky backing plaster which would be the equivalent of sticking plasterboards to your walls. (much more skill involved dont bother)
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thanks danny for explaining those things i did my level one last year in july and it was a 6month 2 night a week intense course at manchester college a city and guilds but i just thought i would rather pick the brains of others before i go in and attempt it. i could just do it with browning and skim it and then skim again if its not great at my own expense.
 
keithuk said:
Your boss .will soon be your exboss if you f##k up ,don,t run before you can walk ,your idea of setting over it says it all .Tell your Boss you will get a plasterer in and to cut the cost you will help him out ,you learn abit more, and your boss is happy
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i don't think he will fire me even if i mess it up cos he's really nice I'm gonna have a go at it i do think i can do it i just want to be clear about how and what i need to do it
 
brimplas1 said:
you wont get a good bond on the painted walls with drywall pal! go to a timber yard buy some 2x1 screw it to the wall at 400mm centres, srew plaster boards to the batons and skim it ! job done no problems!!
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so basically i just buy some 2x1, then every 400mm i put a piece on the wall using plugs and screw and then i just fix my plasterboard to it and wallah scrim tape and skim it jobs a good one?
 
PLASTAMASTA said:
This is going to be a huge task for a novice that doesnt know what hes doin, try and get help as mentioned earlier because you will fook it up if you aint done anything like this before. what paint is it on the blockwork? if its just matt emulsion board adhesive will stick to em. if its more of a silk/glossy paint use BG Bond It or Knauf Betokontact to provide a key. As Bubble65 said Other option is use Gypliner brackets wall liner system but this is still going to be tricky for a novice. As for timber battens this will probably be easiest option for you as you can take you time, fix timber battens to the wall at 400 or 600 centres and then fix plasterboards to battens then skim. And remember your job depends on this....... Goodluck:RpS_wink:
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paint is matt emulsion, i do like the idea of the 2x1 and then plasterboards on top seems easy but then i find browning easy to so i am seriously considering browning it keying it and then skimming it and then we will see how it ends up
 
PLASTAMASTA said:
This is going to be a huge task for a novice that doesnt know what hes doin, try and get help as mentioned earlier because you will fook it up if you aint done anything like this before. what paint is it on the blockwork? if its just matt emulsion board adhesive will stick to em. if its more of a silk/glossy paint use BG Bond It or Knauf Betokontact to provide a key. As Bubble65 said Other option is use Gypliner brackets wall liner system but this is still going to be tricky for a novice. As for timber battens this will probably be easiest option for you as you can take you time, fix timber battens to the wall at 400 or 600 centres and then fix plasterboards to battens then skim. And remember your job depends on this....... Goodluck:RpS_wink:
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thanks for your reply and time and thanks to all who have contributed upto now i do feel so much more clearer about a plan of action but anyone got any ideas how much multi finish i will need to do the job two room 13x12foot and 13x10foot and ceiling is 8 foot of ground
 
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