Can't you buy the freehold?
how can you purchase something that no one has full claim of?
Can't you buy the freehold?
I assume he sells the freeholdfreehold
You can buy the freehold and be landlord of both including your own leasehow can you purchase something that no one has full claim of?
You can buy the freehold and be landlord of both including your own lease
It's quite common in London, skulduggery is one reason, t do and also to prevent others taking liberties, ie new roof required, freeholder supplies three quotes, basically the leaseholder pays lions share and a bitwhy would anyone want to do that ?
It's quite common in London, skulduggery is one reason, t do and also to prevent others taking liberties, ie new roof required, freeholder supplies three quotes, basically the leaseholder pays lions share and a bit
bet that came as a bloody shocki see you would have to purchase the land off every flat owner in the block,of your property. to gain control.
we worked on some council blocks in east london, the council had sold some of the flats off. the council then ordered a new roof and ewi to the external as the flats where built in no fines. the people who had purchased their flats had to pay the contractor £10,000 each for their share of the works.
bet that came as a bloody shock
you will need an area 2m square minium to place the staircase to the upper floor.
Purloin ,yes it is
so ,you are just putting veluxes in and keeping it as it is.any dwarf walls been built, any steel going in as ridge beam? Beefing up the joists? Insulation,? Tri ISO super ten would work with insulated plasterboard 38mm,
I believe the freeholder can refuse you permission for any loft conversion/building works.
Best to check with them.
The insulation is a very subjective thing for the councils, each and everyone has different requirements ,some want 100mm solid with an air gap and insulated plasterboard with 50mm thickness on top of joists,probably they way to go for you I think, you can beef up joists by laying an additional one alongside the older ones or by removing each older one, one by one and replacing, you will lose the ceilings below obviously,I would do a ridge beam my self not sure if its a requirement in this circumstance.
You have a ridge plate, beam is an rsj sitting on pad stones either end,a structural engineer will give you a spec for what's required, re the joists, if you are dropping the ceilings, I would replace all the joists with tantalised 8/2 c24 timber, remove one by one will keep its structural integrity , simple job for a decent carpenter, has the roof got breathable membrane ,it will if its recently been done..I will be pulling all the ceilings down anyway as they full of artex and coving so they are already condemned
Is that not already a ridge beam going through already?
The insulation side of things I will just go with what is recommended... Looks like there will be plenty of room available (I Hope)
Our job in Peckham has passed tri ISO 10 with 38mm insulated board on top, problem for Danny is he would have to staple it on to joists then fitted 25mm battens then 38 mm on top, might be easier to in fill with 100mm quinntherm and leave 50 mm air gap and then fit 50mm insulated p,board, he could use a split ridge beam to save on a crane and have it carried up stairs, might need a hand with it..fire escapes differ depending on the amount of floors.How many floors up? If you need steel you will need a crane, if you have the height downstairs you could make the loft even bigger if you are dropping the ceilings also remember if you are on the top floor it's a lot of **** to get down. Overboard will give you the fire rating you will need for the loft and save you a hell of a lot of work. If your council lets you use tri ISO 10 this will give you even more space. Be careful who you get your drawings off this can be the most important stage for you and also for the building inspector. Take pics of every stage this way you won't need to wait for checks before carrying on, think about fire escapes this is very important.
Not anymore you need acess to your fromt door with out going through any occupied rooms and sometimes a sprinkler system put in fire doors and ceilings below fireboardedOne if the main things is you need the head height for a set of stairs and also a fire exit out of the roof a fireman/plasterer needs to be able to reach you from a set of ladders.
Say the fire is downstairs and your in the loft? I know regs are different in different areas but an escape route is always needed out of the loft usually through a window of a certain size. The height off the floor comes into it, the way it opens comes into it and the measurement from the gutter comes into it and finally it needs to be able to get access with a set of ladders or there needs to be a place you can climb out to and safely wait to be rescued. Some of the things you mentioned are required but a lot if other things.Not anymore you need acess to your fromt door with out going through any occupied rooms and sometimes a sprinkler system put in fire doors and ceilings below fireboarded