plastering conservatory internal roof

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mattyp

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Evening guys. Got a job on next week which involves plastering a guardian roof on a conservatory. Plasterboard has been fitted. How would i get a good finish on the facets?
Would you use a stop bead to get a nice clean line on the facets (angles)?
I have added an image to show an example of what i mean. plastering conservatory internal roof
 
i would fill the rakes with bonding, run a mould along the rake to make sure that it is even then skim.
 
the chances of those rakes being true and straight are about 100 to 1. that is why i would bond them out and skim the whole ceiling in one.
 
I've done a couple of these and I'd fill the joints and roll the hole ceiling it looks a lot better then beading it up
 
ok lads. Just thinking that doing the whole ceiling in one could be a bit of a struggle on my own because of the size.
 
Done a few of these myself, far easier to roll them, especially if you have not boarded them out yourself, how big is the thing, should be able to get it in one if its a normal sized conservatory, usually only about 4x5 or 5x5, just make sure you can reach the highest point easily
 
ok lads thanks. never done a rolling set before i am a bit apprehensive of doing a large area for the first time.
if i was going to bond the joints out would you scrim tape them first?
 
did one about 2 months ago rolled the top and 4 hips (if that makes sense ) it was on one of these polycarbonate roof conversions where they tri iso the roof and counter batten id stick a picture on if I new how
 
ok lads thanks. never done a rolling set before i am a bit apprehensive of doing a large area for the first time.
if i was going to bond the joints out would you scrim tape them first?

Aye scrim before bonding , rolling set get 2 buckets ready with water , knock a bag up and get half on and flat , when comfortable with it get the other one knocked up and this one will set after ur first one ...... Means no joint as it will work in together . Are you a plasterer ?
 
put on the amount your comfy with and concentrate on getting that bang right choose a place to fade out...then next set fade back in foook a 5hr rolling set chasing your arse all day
 
yeah I can plaster to a good standard just not that quick compared to a lot of spreads I know.
if I chose an area to fade out on first set wouldn't I need to fill the join first set would of gone when starting second area to skim?
 
you do need to employ a quality plasterer. this ceiling is a feature and done correct will be the high light of the building.
 
@mattyp with all due respect if your not comfy with blending then this probabley wouldn't be the right job to do it on as there will be a lot of natural side light if a conservatory etc...

that said equaly if your not comfy doing a rolling set I think your better off either passing onto someone with more experience or getting a hand in....
 
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not if its done well
Even when done well I would prefer the Chrisp lines on certain jobs,rolling the corners does suit certain jobs but not this one I feel,it's just personal preference really.

i don't know how everyone else gets nice straight lines on shallow angle internals but I will chalk line the angle first as the boards or roof trusses can be slightly out,I will work to this on one elevation of the vault,I will then chalk line again slightly on to the elevation(s) I've just skimmed then work into this,doing it this way will allow you to build up any low areas and will leave you with a lovely straight line.

doing it on a conservatory like above though would mean you would have to skim every other panel to allow you to mark it,I would still prob do it this way and just price for the day and make a job of it.:RpS_thumbup:
 
kgreigh when you chalk line. Do u run a chalk line where the two boards meet?
I suppose you would offer a spirit level up to get the line dead straight?
tend to find that the joint between the two boards isn't straight.
 
kgreigh when you chalk line. Do u run a chalk line where the two boards meet?
I suppose you would offer a spirit level up to get the line dead straight?
tend to find that the joint between the two boards isn't straight.
yes,so the first line will be a couple of mm past where the boards meet,if the line is on the right hand side of the board join you will skim the left hand panel to the line,then you chalk line slightly onto the left hand panel and skim the right one to it.
as said above it may be easyer on the small sections to use a straight edge or spirit level instead of a chalk line.:RpS_thumbup:
 
yes,so the first line will be a couple of mm past where the boards meet,if the line is on the right hand side of the board join you will skim the left hand panel to the line,then you chalk line slightly onto the left hand panel and skim the right one to it.
as said above it may be easyer on the small sections to use a straight edge or spirit level instead of a chalk line.:RpS_thumbup:

Sorry mate your wasting your time chalking lines on a job like this ( said friendly) , u need to rule the angles out using a straight edge , from top to bottom
 
Sorry mate your wasting your time chalking lines on a job like this ( said friendly) , u need to rule the angles out using a straight edge , from top to bottom
I have had great results doing them this way in the past but I'm always open to new ways and techniques,what do you mean rule the angles out?do you mean use a straight edge/speedskim/spat etc while the plaster is wet?
 
id skim it in one roll it and get the money and it would look shite hot, incidentally if it was too big to skim in one on my own there would be two of us
 
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