Rendagrip

Members online

Total: 597 (members: 2, guests: 595)

Share this page

S

solway

Active Member
Hi all
Can rendagrip be applied to cement board. Back of tub says it can be applied to block,brick etc. No mention of cem board.....
Sand cement going on over it.

Cheers
 
We dry dashed on to render boards a few years ago for a builder using hpx base and full mesh and it's still good.
 
It's an adhesive you want over a carrier board not a render.
You can dash using the adhesive as a receiver coat, or a leightweight mineral render such as Parex ehi as the receiver.
 
OK I'll try and explain. Rendering external of a house for a builder. Timber wallplate is sitting on top of the blockwork flush externally. He wants the wallplate covered with cement board,joints filled and meshed then scratch blockwork flush with cement board and then apply 4-6mm basecoat with mesh over the cement board and 3-4 inches down onto the scratch. Sand cement finish throughout then. Hope my explanation is understandable. How would ye usually conquer external timber wallplates.
 
solway said:
OK I'll try and explain. Rendering external of a house for a builder. Timber wallplate is sitting on top of the blockwork flush externally. He wants the wallplate covered with cement board,joints filled and meshed then scratch blockwork flush with cement board and then apply 4-6mm basecoat with mesh over the cement board and 3-4 inches down onto the scratch. Sand cement finish throughout then. Hope my explanation is understandable. How would ye usually conquer external timber wallplates.
Click to expand...
Get a 6 or 8 inch roll of stainless steel EML. Then nail the EML to the wallplate. Make sure the EML is wide enough to cover the join between the wallplate and block work to prevent cracking. Nail it well with galve clout nails. Stretch the EML as you nail it so it sits nice and flat and get a few nails in the joints between blocks to hold it good. Then scratch up with a nice 5 to 1 mix with a good quality waterproofer in it. Job done

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
 
solway said:
OK I'll try and explain. Rendering external of a house for a builder. Timber wallplate is sitting on top of the blockwork flush externally....
Click to expand...

@Shadow has simplest solution, over a short span like that it should be rock solid.

Not relevant to your problem, but why is the wall plate on the outer leaf?
 
solway said:
OK I'll try and explain. Rendering external of a house for a builder. Timber wallplate is sitting on top of the blockwork flush externally. He wants the wallplate covered with cement board,joints filled and meshed then scratch blockwork flush with cement board and then apply 4-6mm basecoat with mesh over the cement board and 3-4 inches down onto the scratch. Sand cement finish throughout then. Hope my explanation is understandable. How would ye usually conquer external timber wallplates.
Click to expand...
Shadow said:
Get a 6 or 8 inch roll of stainless steel EML. Then nail the EML to the wallplate. Make sure the EML is wide enough to cover the join between the wallplate and block work to prevent cracking. Nail it well with galve clout nails. Stretch the EML as you nail it so it sits nice and flat and get a few nails in the joints between blocks to hold it good. Then scratch up with a nice 5 to 1 mix with a good quality waterproofer in it. Job done

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
I disagree completely. That method will most definetly crack. There will be movement between the timber wallplate and the blockwork. Eml is only a render carrier. Timber wallplate inside and outside. Inside not a problem as there's an insulated plasterboard all around the perimeter
 
solway said:
I disagree completely. That method will most definetly crack. There will be movement between the timber wallplate and the blockwork. Eml is only a render carrier. Timber wallplate inside and outside. Inside not a problem as there's an insulated plasterboard all around the perimeter
Click to expand...

You will still risk a crack with cement board and it will need to be well meshed in a base coat and preferably again in the top coat.

If you go down the eml route, put roofers breathable roofing felt on the plate going over the horizontal bedding joint by at least 25mm. Then nail on your eml passing over the bottom edge of the felt by at least another 25mm.

Eml is only a carrier as said so incorporate some mesh in the render over the eml.
 
solway said:
I disagree completely. That method will most definetly crack. There will be movement between the timber wallplate and the blockwork. Eml is only a render carrier. Timber wallplate inside and outside. Inside not a problem as there's an insulated plasterboard all around the perimeter
Click to expand...
Just out of curiosity if you were render and skimming the inside of say a bungalow how would you render over the wallplate. I've always Emled over it and every plasterer I've worked with for the last 30 years has done it that way with no issues. With the plate strapped and the wait of the roof movement is so small to be non existent.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
 
  • Agree
Reactions: Djr
Ya we do the same but always felt over the wallplate and come down onto the blockwork 3/4 inches and nail the bejazus out of it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top