retaining garden wall

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beddy

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Ive been asked to price a garden wall in mono. its approximately 6m long and .75m high.

its currently tiled and had small coping stones on the top. it hasnt been tanked the other side. I have no problems actually doing the mono but im unsure of the prep work.

a couple of the tiles have come off (knocked on external corner) and it has left the cementious adhesive which is solid. can I go over this? will a tanking slurry suffice? once tanked will I need to apply a scratch coat, be it ocr or rendaid or will I be able to go straight on with the mono?

ive told her that she needs some wider coping stones as there is only 10-20mm depth at the minute. think shes going to take them off. let me bead it and then fix new ones when im finished.

finally ive got the choice of parex or weber. which would be the prefered product? weber is only a quid a bag cheaper so im happy to use either.
 
I'd Take all the tiles and copings off first to get a good look at the state of the wall.Could be blown faces of bricks or anything. Also copings would be better off on before you mono or when they are bedded on(Probably with s and c) you'll have a gap and crappy grey showing.
 
Pricing similar job myself Steve thing is its a garden wall how much do they want to spend ime going in at £40 m2 supply and fit on the mono tanking extra.
 
ive told her about the tanking andy and explained why its necessary. so as far as im concerned it costs what it costs to be done properly.
 
garden walls to problematic for me. we only use webber mono as we know the setting times.
 
How much earth is on the otherside of the wall Steve?. might be worth drilling some weep holes at the bottom to let and water drain off
 
its the whole lawn which has gotta be 50/60m2. id say the back of the garden is head height when by the wall. itd still need tanking with weep holes wouldn't it? they just reduce the pressure?
 
aye. you would need both marra. bitumen paint works as well, but i would use a tanking slurry.................:RpS_thumbup:
 
weve just done a similar project on a ha-ha wall. [if lads don't know what a ha-ha wall is they shouldn't be rendering]
if your using either weber or parex, get there reps to spec using there products then your covered all round.

cost you mention the quid a difference dearer per either parex or weber will account for parex getting 10% better coverage so there effectively the same cost.

as said, sort your copings out first, then you've got an edge to work to.
Tank it using the manufactorers version of sbr,and fully mesh it. put weep holes in this will reduce the build up of pressure behind, if you can create a french drain behind the wall with limestone chippings.
once rendered coat the lot with a breathable sealer such as paraguard. The main issues with retaining walls are obviously damp tracking through but also salts from the mortar/masonary behind but if you tank it right it will be effective.

now away with you beddy. :RpS_blink:
 
owls said:
weve just done a similar project on a ha-ha wall. [if lads don't know what a ha-ha wall is they shouldn't be rendering]
if your using either weber or parex, get there reps to spec using there products then your covered all round.

cost you mention the quid a difference dearer per either parex or weber will account for parex getting 10% better coverage so there effectively the same cost.

as said, sort your copings out first, then you've got an edge to work to.
Tank it using the manufactorers version of sbr,and fully mesh it. put weep holes in this will reduce the build up of pressure behind, if you can create a french drain behind the wall with limestone chippings.
once rendered coat the lot with a breathable sealer such as paraguard. The main issues with retaining walls are obviously damp tracking through but also salts from the mortar/masonary behind but if you tank it right it will be effective.

now away with you beddy. :RpS_blink:
Click to expand...

I've just spent the last hour phoning round, cancelling all our booked in rendering jobs :RpS_blushing:
 
owls said:
weve just done a similar project on a ha-ha wall. [if lads don't know what a ha-ha wall is they shouldn't be rendering]
if your using either weber or parex, get there reps to spec using there products then your covered all round.

cost you mention the quid a difference dearer per either parex or weber will account for parex getting 10% better coverage so there effectively the same cost.

as said, sort your copings out first, then you've got an edge to work to.
Tank it using the manufactorers version of sbr,and fully mesh it. put weep holes in this will reduce the build up of pressure behind, if you can create a french drain behind the wall with limestone chippings.
once rendered coat the lot with a breathable sealer such as paraguard. The main issues with retaining walls are obviously damp tracking through but also salts from the mortar/masonary behind but if you tank it right it will be effective.

now away with you beddy. :RpS_blink:
Click to expand...


thanks, ill go back to the plastering section now. This place has crap lighting and smells funny :RpS_thumbsup:
 
After all my years doing this it took my son to tell me what a 'ha ha wall' is. He reckons it must be the type of wall one of our regular clients had someone else do because they couldn't wait a week for us to do it. He said this must be right because it's the exact sound I made when asked to put the mess right, which I didn't.
 
are you seriously saying youre renderers and never heard or come across a haha wall ?
go google It, theres pages on them. haha walls are a designed feature retaining wall that have banked up earth behind.
 
owls said:
are you seriously saying youre renderers and never heard or come across a haha wall ?
go google It, theres pages on them. haha walls are a designed feature retaining wall that have banked up earth behind.
Click to expand...
i google ha ha walls before i posted on here,, been plastering and rendering for over 30 years ,, never heard them called that before
 
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