s&c mix/method - does this sound about right chaps?

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zombie

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Hi Chaps,

As mentioned on a previous thread got a realy small conservatory dwarf wall im hoping to render.

Ive advised best to leave till mid April.

Ive spent the last few nights looking at relative threads and just trying to ensure im approaching correctly.

If anyone could pass any comments on how im intending to approach it would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you

zombie:RpS_thumbsup:


(The substate is block work)

Set Galvanised or Stainless Beads inc Belcast bead at height of top of DPC

1) Dampen down block work?
or
1a) Apply an SBR slurry?

2) Apply scratch coat 4-1 & WATERPRROFER?
(rule & scratch) leave to cure for apx 1week?

3) Return and apply topcoat 6-1 & PLASTERCISER?
(rule, Poly float then sponge)

Hopefully im on the right track???????
 
Yeah on the right track mate.

Just dampen the blockwork, no need for SBR.

rule the scratch coat, so the top coat is of an even thickness.
 
Thanks Carlos appreciated.

So youd make your top coat in effect a

6 - (plastering sand)
1 - (portland cement)
1 - (hydrated lime in a bag)

and just use waterproofer in the 4-1 scratch coat.

Thank you zombie:RpS_thumbsup:
 
Hi Malc,

To be 100% sure im not intirely sure was a bit of an afterthought after looking at some other bits etc. I will be going over again sometime over next few wks so will have chance to look more closley etc.

Would the block work affect your approach alot? Im assuming if there the smooth type would you suggest a sbr slurry etc?

Thanks Artisan 998,

Do you add them to both coats? do you also use a specific size?

Thanks chaps zombie:RpS_thumbup:
 
If you put fibres in the top coat be careful or it'll look like someones scrotum sack on an ironing board :rolleyes)
 
Thankyou johniosaif,

Take it that would be for your scratch to sort the suction ie low suction (concrete 4-1). Apposed to high suction (celcon 6-1).

If so, would i assume your top coat would progress weaket ie if concrete (5-1). With the celcon top coat being (7-1)

With waterproofer in scratch still? and lime or plasticiser in top?

Cheers mate
 
Make it simple mate get yourself some ocr which is rated 1-3 in strengths with 1being strongest, if your working on high suction use rend aid first.
 
Thanks priceplastering.

I had thought about that done a little bit of ewi on the weatherby system. Did wonder actualy if you could rub up there render which has scrim adhesive wrote on them and do a coat and mesh it? as per ewi and then return and top it and sponge it up?

Ive only seen it finished of with there textured coloured topcoat etc.

zombie
 
zombie said:
Hi Malc,

To be 100% sure im not intirely sure was a bit of an afterthought after looking at some other bits etc. I will be going over again sometime over next few wks so will have chance to look more closley etc.

Would the block work affect your approach alot? Im assuming if there the smooth type would you suggest a sbr slurry etc?

Thanks Artisan 998,

Do you add them to both coats? do you also use a specific size?

Thanks chaps zombie:RpS_thumbup:
Click to expand...

i only put them in the scratch but you can put them in both......get the 3mm ones :RpS_thumbup:... wickes do them or ebay think they cost about £4 a pack and a pack does 10 mixes..........might be worth asking bubbles how he knows what a scrotum on an ironing board looks like.........:RpS_unsure:
 
Thanks Artisan998.

Thats reasonable, daft not to use them then realy for that price then on such a small sized job.

Thanks for that mate appreciated:RpS_thumbsup:
 
Artisan998 said:
i only put them in the scratch but you can put them in both......get the 3mm ones :RpS_thumbup:... wickes do them or ebay think they cost about £4 a pack and a pack does 10 mixes..........might be worth asking bubbles how he knows what a scrotum on an ironing board looks like.........:RpS_unsure:
Click to expand...

Cos I've put them in the top coat before and that's what it looks like. Also the lab used to like making little model cocks with a pair of hairy balls resting underneath............quite authentic looking really :RpS_laugh:
 
why wait till mid april??? as long as the nite temp is over 0 degress it will be fine.i render through the winter months every year.based in the southwest mind.don`t bother ruling scratch either.just lay on tight,2-3 mil.
 
Hi Bobby,

So your saying that you dont rule your external S&C render scratch coat ? how do you know its level?

I thought with external S&C render idealy your looking at around 6mm or so a coat and thought you had to leave first coat to cure before applying your weaker top coat?.

Or are you on about modern one coat renders?

Thanks for your info mate

zombie
 
Hi Bobby,

So your saying that you dont rule your external S&C render scratch coat ? how do you know its level?

I thought with external S&C render idealy your looking at around 6mm or so a coat and thought you had to leave first coat to cure before applying your weaker top coat?.

Or are you on about modern one coat renders?

Thanks for your info mate

zombie
 
zombie said:
Hi Bobby,

So your saying that you dont rule your external S&C render scratch coat ? how do you know its level?

I thought with external S&C render idealy your looking at around 6mm or so a coat and thought you had to leave first coat to cure before applying your weaker top coat?.

Or are you on about modern one coat renders?

Thanks for your info mate

zombie
Click to expand...

you know its flat/level coz you put it on with skill, lol jokes. but you do get to know its level by feel and look tbh if you doing it for while. or just run around with a straight edge and check if your anal bout it. 4-1 with 1-2 caps of waterproof/freeflow and bit of plaz for work ability ease, sometimes a small amount of lime too to help a bit of movement or breath ability . 5-1 top with 1-2 cap of waterproof/freeflow, NO plaz(can make it fur up), nice shovel full of lime on a 10-2 mix. its harder work to apply top coat with no plaz but it completely removes chance of furring while rubbing up imo, unless its near a bead and thinner/dry.
sometimes go round with brush and water and brush water on around beads to help with that.
 
thanks lizard821000,

Appreciate your info mate.

Dont think id dare not rule with my lazy eye lol...do you mainly just rule your scratch and just feel your way through your top coat then mate?

cheers zombie
 
thanks lizard821000 thats reassuring think il play it safe and rule both then lol.

Gooner58 hahah thats class

zombie
 
I always rule the scratch, for your wall if its concrete,put on a coat at four to one with waterproofer then second coat straight away at same mix,devil float when it's been flattened and levelled .if is cello do it six to one with waterproofer, sovereign is good, have to admit I know little of OCR or any of the modern stuff so the guys will advise on this, wish I knew a bit more to be honest but never used it in twenty five years
 
Fair play this is the most over the top thread for a little bit of rendering Ive seen on here, you're all absolutely desperate to get you're bit in lol
 
Thanks johniosaif appreciated mate.

Im the opposite my first and very little rendering experiance has been in OCR. Guess it all boils down to when opportunitys/jobs cross your patch etc.

Managed to bumble along without having to render and always swerved but i guess as with many things you get to the stage where youd like to expand your skill set and would quite like a bit more variation than always stuck on internels etc.

zombie
 
lol spunky...

essexandy.... il tell you what fela i recon ive spent a good wk reading back through all the rendering threads. And i think im more confused now than when i started!!! lol

Just when i think ive got the correct approach sorted someone throws in another idea/suggestion and i start scratching my head again lol.

Anyway thanks chaps been realy, realy appreciated

zombie:RpS_thumbsup:
 
never known anyone in all my years of plastering to rule scratch coat tbh.but if thats what works for u so be it.we would scratch around 300m2 in a day on site and its as flat as it needs to be for top.each to there own.i would imagine if your new to the game,trying to rule it would just make the wall worse than it was at the start!!
 
bobby said:
never known anyone in all my years of plastering to rule scratch coat tbh.but if thats what works for u so be it.we would scratch around 300m2 in a day on site and its as flat as it needs to be for top.each to there own.i would imagine if your new to the game,trying to rule it would just make the wall worse than it was at the start!!
Click to expand...
We do refurbs in London ,I generally scud coat, scratch next day,I always rule it to see what the wall is like firstly,fill in any hollows if need be, leave it beaded and set for a week then second it,I just like it nice and flat and level as possible, I have seen many new jobs, OCR,mono etc destroyed by it not been ruled flat, the sun grasses the spreads up, some massive developments around London destroyed by amateurs, not saying you of course ,probably cheap as chips two week coursers.i am new to the game since 1987 used to do 250k of work a year since the late nineties but only a quarter of that now. I tried to get into property but the recession put me back on the trowel. Lots of spreads rule the first coat .
 
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