Selfbuilder in Dorest Tech Question on Plasterboard

G

Graham Huggett

New Member
As a self builder I am about to put up ceiling plasterboard in my newly built retirement bungalow.
FYI The build is traditional bricks/therms throughout, with a large traditional truss and cut roof.
Its taken me 3 years to get this far.

Ceiling rafters are typically 7" x 2", and I am using 2 "x 3" noggins every 2ft with drywall screws every 9". Long term it will be skimmed (by a plasterer) along with my dot & dab boards on the walls.

1/ Knauf web site seems to suggest taper board, other web site suggest square board.
My designer also says square board. What would forum recommend?

2/ I intent to butt the joints leaving no gap. However manufacturers say upto 3mm. What would forum recommend?

3/Assuming square board do I "Joint filler" the joints and screw holes and use a scrim or a paper over the top which in my opinion will raise the joint a little on square board. What would forum recommend?

Don't want cracks appearing but its a bungalow, upstairs is loft space, therefore the rafters should not be subject to much movement.
 
Get it screwed every four inch dw about straight or taper either will work for plastering no gaps needed let him do the rest especially the dot and dab, tbf you'd ideally take a back seat on this one and let the plasterer crack on with it quick and easy leaving you a paintable finish
 
Graham Huggett said:
As a self builder I am about to put up ceiling plasterboard in my newly built retirement bungalow.
FYI The build is traditional bricks/therms throughout, with a large traditional truss and cut roof.
Its taken me 3 years to get this far.

Ceiling rafters are typically 7" x 2", and I am using 2 "x 3" noggins every 2ft with drywall screws every 9". Long term it will be skimmed (by a plasterer) along with my dot & dab boards on the walls.

1/ Knauf web site seems to suggest taper board, other web site suggest square board.
My designer also says square board. What would forum recommend?

2/ I intent to butt the joints leaving no gap. However manufacturers say upto 3mm. What would forum recommend?

3/Assuming square board do I "Joint filler" the joints and screw holes and use a scrim or a paper over the top which in my opinion will raise the joint a little on square board. What would forum recommend?

Don't want cracks appearing but its a bungalow, upstairs is loft space, therefore the rafters should not be subject to much movement.
Click to expand...
12.5mm square edge plasterboard is fine.

we tend to go for rows of 6 screws in each board..

butt the boards together...

dont bother with any taping or filling. this will all be done by plasterer...


we are portsmouth based if you would like any advise as you go and a quote for dabbing walls and plastering...

ejl plastering &rendering ltd
 
Graham Huggett said:
As a self builder I am about to put up ceiling plasterboard in my newly built retirement bungalow.
FYI The build is traditional bricks/therms throughout, with a large traditional truss and cut roof.
Its taken me 3 years to get this far.

Ceiling rafters are typically 7" x 2", and I am using 2 "x 3" noggins every 2ft with drywall screws every 9". Long term it will be skimmed (by a plasterer) along with my dot & dab boards on the walls.

1/ Knauf web site seems to suggest taper board, other web site suggest square board.
My designer also says square board. What would forum recommend?

2/ I intent to butt the joints leaving no gap. However manufacturers say upto 3mm. What would forum recommend?

3/Assuming square board do I "Joint filler" the joints and screw holes and use a scrim or a paper over the top which in my opinion will raise the joint a little on square board. What would forum recommend?

Don't want cracks appearing but its a bungalow, upstairs is loft space, therefore the rafters should not be subject to much movement.
Click to expand...
Definitely square edge half inch board for ceilings, tapered edge is wall board
 
Dansouthcoast84 said:
12.5mm square edge plasterboard is fine.

we tend to go for rows of 6 screws in each board..

butt the boards together...

dont bother with any taping or filling. this will all be done by plasterer...


we are portsmouth based if you would like any advise as you go and a quote for dabbing walls and plastering...

ejl plastering &rendering ltd
Click to expand...
6 screws to a row doesn't meet spec Dan
 
Graham Huggett said:
As a self builder I am about to put up ceiling plasterboard in my newly built retirement bungalow.
FYI The build is traditional bricks/therms throughout, with a large traditional truss and cut roof.
Its taken me 3 years to get this far.

Ceiling rafters are typically 7" x 2", and I am using 2 "x 3" noggins every 2ft with drywall screws every 9". Long term it will be skimmed (by a plasterer) along with my dot & dab boards on the walls.

1/ Knauf web site seems to suggest taper board, other web site suggest square board.
My designer also says square board. What would forum recommend?

2/ I intent to butt the joints leaving no gap. However manufacturers say upto 3mm. What would forum recommend?

3/Assuming square board do I "Joint filler" the joints and screw holes and use a scrim or a paper over the top which in my opinion will raise the joint a little on square board. What would forum recommend?

Don't want cracks appearing but its a bungalow, upstairs is loft space, therefore the rafters should not be subject to much movement.
Click to expand...

By the time you've bought the tools, you'll have spent nearly what a plasterer would want. You'll need a megamixer because you'll kill your drill with the adhesive. You might get the boarding right, you might not. You'll probably need a hand with the ceiling, which you'll probably have to pay for and it's guaranteed to be right, isn't it?
 
essexandy said:
7 across from paper edge to paper edge and 8 across a cut/unbound end.
Click to expand...

That’s what I do. Works out about the depth of my screw gun between screws. If one goes through the paper , I pop another one in beside it. When I price, I allow a strip of screws per board.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I do 6 and no one reported they fell down or sagged but time will tell
 
Lodan said:
I do 6 and no one reported they fell down or sagged but time will tell
Click to expand...
If you do a new build and get pulled for it you'll be having to put screws in between all the screws as the spacings, as well as the amount would be wrong. It has happened.
On a site recently the tackers had to replace every screw as they were the wrong length. Spotted by a council inspector of all people.
 
essexandy said:
If you do a new build and get pulled for it you'll be having to put screws in between all the screws as the spacings, as well as the amount would be wrong. It has happened.
On a site recently the tackers had to replace every screw as they were the wrong length. Spotted by a council inspector of all people.
Click to expand...
I did a church Hall ceiling , 30 foot high, the tackers had countersunk all the screws in the board
 
essexandy said:
If you do a new build and get pulled for it you'll be having to put screws in between all the screws as the spacings, as well as the amount would be wrong. It has happened.
On a site recently the tackers had to replace every screw as they were the wrong length. Spotted by a council inspector of all people.
Click to expand...
Meant to be six inches apart that’s eight across a 8 by 4 board, 38 mm screws should be ample for a single skin it give 26 mm in the joist
 
essexandy said:
If you do a new build and get pulled for it you'll be having to put screws in between all the screws as the spacings, as well as the amount would be wrong. It has happened.
On a site recently the tackers had to replace every screw as they were the wrong length. Spotted by a council inspector of all people.
Click to expand...
I don't really do new builds so not a worry fortunately, they certainly like to make people jump through hoops
 
Mouldyoldspudgun said:
Not been on that sort of site for decades
Click to expand...

I'm old enough to remember nailing ceilings up. The top of my head is still flat from that. Absolute bstard of a job.

Out of interest, gentlemen, how many of you use an ordinary screwgun and how many use the belty thing?
 
Stevieo said:
I'm old enough to remember nailing ceilings up. The top of my head is still flat from that. Absolute bstard of a job.

Out of interest, gentlemen, how many of you use an ordinary screwgun and how many use the belty thing?
Click to expand...
We use the ordinary screwgun as we don't do a lot of dry work ,the collated gun is much faster
 
essexandy said:
The main use of Duplex is on ceilings.
Ceilings are tape and jointed just the same as walls so it makes sense to have tapered edge.
Click to expand...
Got you on that but they make half inch square edge, maybe if it’s plastered it’s half inch and 15 mil for tape and joining, being as I don’t work on site maybe I should just shut the f**k up haha
 
Stevieo said:
I'm old enough to remember nailing ceilings up. The top of my head is still flat from that. Absolute bstard of a job.

Out of interest, gentlemen, how many of you use an ordinary screwgun and how many use the belty thing?
Click to expand...
I use an electric makita drywall gun not magazine fed damn quick bit of kit just have to keep an eye on the lead and the dead men
 
Mouldyoldspudgun said:
Got you on that but they make half inch square edge, maybe if it’s plastered it’s half inch and 15 mil for tape and joining, being as I don’t work on site maybe I should just shut the f**k up haha
Click to expand...
I think that 15mm Duplex is such an unusual spec that they only make the tapered edge as it can be used for both.
We don't do site work nowadays, just one offs as a rule.
 
Stevieo said:
I'm old enough to remember nailing ceilings up. The top of my head is still flat from that. Absolute bstard of a job.

Out of interest, gentlemen, how many of you use an ordinary screwgun and how many use the belty thing?
Click to expand...
We use the Hilti collated gun as recommended by Tony on here.
 
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