Skim Over Joint Filler

Stevieo

Royal Spin Doctor
#36
There you go you see my shite boards in one of the rooms.

Picture 3 shows what the boards are screwed onto walls and ceiling. That room hasnt been boarded out yet.

And the last pic shows just how far out everything is. I admit it was all down to me as I built this large shed and I am totally crap.
The work of a madman.

At least you're honest.
 

satan

Active Member
#38
The work of a madman.

At least you're honest.
Tis true but it is for me. If it was a paid job then simply my dear nobody could afford me. It is mega over the top. But its my build. I just think if you are gonna do something........then do it properly.
 

Stevieo

Royal Spin Doctor
#40
Tis true but it is for me. If it was a paid job then simply my dear nobody could afford me. It is mega over the top. But its my build. I just think if you are gonna do something........then do it properly.
That's one way to look at it...I'm sure it'll turn out fine, but there's a lot of hours in that job there that you probably didn't have to spend.
 

satan

Active Member
#41
That's one way to look at it...I'm sure it'll turn out fine, but there's a lot of hours in that job there that you probably didn't have to spend.
Keeps me off the streets.
 

satan

Active Member
#43
Joinery looks good though...
Tis raised off the ground so a timber floor 9"x2" which is lined with steel on bottom to keep vermin out. 9" of insulation in floors.

Walls are 8"x2" with 2" counter battens on inside and outside then cladded. Walls have 10" of insulation.

Ceiling is 9"x2" with storage above and 12" of insulation.

It is almost a passive build.

I made a mistake though as when I lasered it......it was 5mm out over 45ft...........perhaps I should knock it down and start again? :p
 

Stevieo

Royal Spin Doctor
#44
Tis raised off the ground so a timber floor 9"x2" which is lined with steel on bottom to keep vermin out. 9" of insulation in floors.

Walls are 8"x2" with 2" counter battens on inside and outside then cladded. Walls have 10" of insulation.

Ceiling is 9"x2" with storage above and 12" of insulation.

It is almost a passive build.

I made a mistake though as when I lasered it......it was 5mm out over 45ft...........perhaps I should knock it down and start again? :p
Armour plate against rodents....I like it.

5mm out...well I would indeed consider knocking it down....the plasterer might get it. If the decorator doesn't behind him, it'll be rough as f**k.
 

Gibbo

Well-Known Member
#45
If yo have bevelled edge plasterboard, then it has a drylining side which is recessed and a skimming side which isn't.

The two don't match up particularly well. I did a job a couple of years ago where the guy had filled flush board joints...it was a fuckign nightmare - he'd totally confused drylining and skimming, so now I have to plaster his BFO lumpy joints that he's filled with scrimtape so it couldn't even be sanded properly.
No such thing all boards are taped and jointed or skimmed on the same side
 
Love CBD

satan

Active Member
#46
If plasterer messes up..............he walks/limps away with empty pockets...............no excuse to mess up.
 

Stevieo

Royal Spin Doctor
#47
No such thing all boards are taped and jointed or skimmed on the same side
Hmmm... if you're right about that then things have changed.

I only ever really came across dryliners once.... a Geordie crew came to IOM to fix up 12 houses for us and I DISTINCTLY remember them leaving this.

You saying dryliners now work on the square edge?

1547304444840.png
 

Gibbo

Well-Known Member
#48
Hmmm... if you're right about that then things have changed.

I only ever really came across dryliners once.... a Geordie crew came to IOM to fix up 12 houses for us and I DISTINCTLY remember them leaving this.

You saying dryliners now work on the square edge?

View attachment 30788
No you get squared edged boards and tapered edged boards square for skim and tapered for both skim and taped and jointed boards are skimmed or taped and jointed on the bound edge side been like that for years
 

Stevieo

Royal Spin Doctor
#49
No you get squared edged boards and tapered edged boards square for skim and tapered for both skim and taped and jointed boards are skimmed or taped and jointed on the bound edge side been like that for years
Then I'm out of date with drylining and I tip my hat to you.

Still should never be necessary to scrim, fill, go halfway to drylining and skim over though.
 

Gibbo

Well-Known Member
#50
Then I'm out of date with drylining and I tip my hat to you.

Still should never be necessary to scrim, fill, go halfway to drylining and skim over though.
Think Satan aint in uk
 

stuart23

Private Member
#51
If yo have bevelled edge plasterboard, then it has a drylining side which is recessed and a skimming side which isn't.

The two don't match up particularly well. I did a job a couple of years ago where the guy had filled flush board joints...it was a fuckign nightmare - he'd totally confused drylining and skimming, so now I have to plaster his BFO lumpy joints that he's filled with scrimtape so it couldn't even be sanded properly.
That’s a myth about different sides for taping and skimming mate.
 

satan

Active Member
#53
Think Satan aint in uk
Why do you say that? I am not but I am from UK ..............British. A Brummy (there you go Lurpy).

I have worked on building lots of times doing different stuff, but filled and taped joints from info on Youtube before coming here for info.
 

Stevieo

Royal Spin Doctor
#54
That’s a myth about different sides for taping and skimming mate.
It never used to be....boards did say PLASTER THIS SIDE and the other was a bevelled edge.

I've only ever touched skimming now since many years ago.

As I said, I stand corrected on that point.
 
Love CBD

satan

Active Member
#56
One observation on this though................if the board recess was for filling and then painting only................why do they not put the recess all around the boards and only on the long edges?
 

Stevieo

Royal Spin Doctor
#59
One observation on this though................if the board recess was for filling and then painting only................why do they not put the recess all around the boards and only on the long edges?
That's actually a very good question. I bet @Vincey knows.
 

satan

Active Member
#60
No...it's RWF's fault and he's banished from here.
Dont know who is or?........I meant being as you are Plasterers why not put vids up on Youtube on how to do jobs properly and embed them here.............would attract more traffic here as well?
 

Gibbo

Well-Known Member
#66
One observation on this though................if the board recess was for filling and then painting only................why do they not put the recess all around the boards and only on the long edges?
Because the board is made in very long lenghts
 

Gibbo

Well-Known Member
#67
Tis true but it is for me. If it was a paid job then simply my dear nobody could afford me. It is mega over the top. But its my build. I just think if you are gonna do something........then do it properly.
Well you f**k*d that joint filling up
 

stuart23

Private Member
#69
Dont know who is or?........I meant being as you are Plasterers why not put vids up on Youtube on how to do jobs properly and embed them here.............would attract more traffic here as well?
You not met this lot? They get very touchy if someone attempts to do there job even when there so busy they couldn’t do it even if they wanted to do lol funny bunch plasterers
 
#70
One observation on this though................if the board recess was for filling and then painting only................why do they not put the recess all around the boards and only on the long edges?
Because you may have to cut the width to get it onto a joist or stud
 
Love CBD