What's kinda job is it for ?Anyone know where I can get thermal finishing plaster like aerotherm and the likes?
Need about 5 bags but the only ones I've seen require an "approved installer" lol
Can you skim over it with gypsum finish ?
Can you skim over it with gypsum finish ?
Anyone know where I can get thermal finishing plaster like aerotherm and the likes?
Need about 5 bags but the only ones I've seen require an "approved installer" lol
Geezer wants an insulating plaster on some solid walls in his house....there's no room to board it as it's on a staircase.What's kinda job is it for ?
27mm therma line plus ?
@aerotherm @Plasterers1StopShopGeezer wants an insulating plaster on some solid walls in his house....there's no room to board it as it's on a staircase.
At that price I think he'll just turn the heating up instead...
to get the uvaules to make a difference you need thickness. do board or spread think be sameGeezer wants an insulating plaster on some solid walls in his house....there's no room to board it as it's on a staircase.
At that price I think he'll just turn the heating up instead...
Aerotherm? You'd be better off saving the money and sticking cornflake packets to the wall, they have the same insulation value.
Compare it to some other materials and you'll see what a load of boll0cks it is.
The thickness of each material needed to give a wall a U value of 0.3 W/m2.K is:
Silica Aerogel ~ 57mm
PIR foam ~ 73mm
EPS foam ~ 118mm
Rock or mineral wool ~ 136mm
AeroTherm = 157mm
Dry timber ~ 292mm
A 1mm layer would make the following % contribution towards the target U value:
Silica Aerogel ~ 1.75%
PIR foam ~ 1.37%
EPS foam ~ 0.85%
Rock or mineral wool ~ 0.73%
AeroTherm = 0.64%
Dry timber ~ 0.34%
So if the customer wants to spend a small fortune to make less than 1% difference to the wall's insulation then crack on. If not, use the phrase 'snake oil' and tell him it's either insulated board inside, EWI, or turn the heating up.
ssshhhhhAnother (unpopular) thing to note with this and refurb work in general, is that if you remove more than 25% of the plaster from the inside of any external wall you should notify building control. They will then expect it to come up to current requirements of part L for refurbishment. So it'd need to have a U value of 0.3 or better.
What would you use to stop a snake squeaking?
Wd40
Just as i was thinking about the training !Aerotherm? You'd be better off saving the money and sticking cornflake packets to the wall, they have the same insulation value.
Compare it to some other materials and you'll see what a load of boll0cks it is.
The thickness of each material needed to give a wall a U value of 0.3 W/m2.K is:
Silica Aerogel ~ 57mm
PIR foam ~ 73mm
EPS foam ~ 118mm
Rock or mineral wool ~ 136mm
AeroTherm = 157mm
Dry timber ~ 292mm
A 1mm layer would make the following % contribution towards the target U value:
Silica Aerogel ~ 1.75%
PIR foam ~ 1.37%
EPS foam ~ 0.85%
Rock or mineral wool ~ 0.73%
AeroTherm = 0.64%
Dry timber ~ 0.34%
So if the customer wants to spend a small fortune to make less than 1% difference to the wall's insulation then crack on. If not, use the phrase 'snake oil' and tell him it's either insulated board inside, EWI, or turn the heating up.
Just as i was thinking about the training !
I knew this and it changes again as we close in on the 2020 emission targetAnother (unpopular) thing to note with this and refurb work in general, is that if you remove more than 25% of the plaster from the inside of any external wall you should notify building control. They will then expect it to come up to current requirements of part L for refurbishment. So it'd need to have a U value of 0.3 or better.
Anyone know where I can get thermal finishing plaster like aerotherm and the likes?
Need about 5 bags but the only ones I've seen require an "approved installer" lol
Anyone know where I can get thermal finishing plaster like aerotherm and the likes?
Need about 5 bags but the only ones I've seen require an "approved installer" lol
Can you skim over it with gypsum finish ?
Aerotherm? You'd be better off saving the money and sticking cornflake packets to the wall, they have the same insulation value.
Compare it to some other materials and you'll see what a load of boll0cks it is.
The thickness of each material needed to give a wall a U value of 0.3 W/m2.K is:
Silica Aerogel ~ 57mm
PIR foam ~ 73mm
EPS foam ~ 118mm
Rock or mineral wool ~ 136mm
AeroTherm = 157mm
Dry timber ~ 292mm
A 1mm layer would make the following % contribution towards the target U value:
Silica Aerogel ~ 1.75%
PIR foam ~ 1.37%
EPS foam ~ 0.85%
Rock or mineral wool ~ 0.73%
AeroTherm = 0.64%
Dry timber ~ 0.34%
So if the customer wants to spend a small fortune to make less than 1% difference to the wall's insulation then crack on. If not, use the phrase 'snake oil' and tell him it's either insulated board inside, EWI, or turn the heating up.
Another (unpopular) thing to note with this and refurb work in general, is that if you remove more than 25% of the plaster from the inside of any external wall you should notify building control. They will then expect it to come up to current requirements of part L for refurbishment. So it'd need to have a U value of 0.3 or better.
I knew this and it changes again as we close in on the 2020 emission target
OK so thermal plaster is useless.
What about the space blanket stuff then boards mechanically fixed to the wall over it?
Yes, you can. Bauwer Light + Bauwer Finish, primer and skimming with gysum plaster.
If you would use airless putty plasters such as Besisser BAGARG primer is not required.
So if I stud out a wall in front of an old stone wall (as mentioned in another thread) it would be better to use rockwool rather than a celotex type board?Thanks for the detailed comments, very useful information indeed.
I added few comments which are applicable mainly for older buildings with solid stone or brick walls.
"The thickness of each material needed to give a wall a U value of 0.3 W/m2.K "
That's a correct requirement if as built U value is 0.7 or better, could you please see extract from the building regs as well as the link to the regs (page 18):
Link Removed
Typical solid wall as built U value would be about 2, so improvement to 0.7 would mean about 3 times improvement and corresponding reduction in heating bills and reduction of damp. Nothing wrong for older building to achieve U value of 0.7+ in my view.
Over years building method evolved with reduction of as built U value. The interesting fact is that requirement for the cavity wall insulation is U value of only 0.55
It can not be that requirement for the less advanced solid wall is tougher vs more advanced wall with a cavity, does not make sense, does it?
We came across several cases when insulated plasterboard or EPS was used in permeable cottage (to achieve U value 0.3) which resulted in serious damp issues and EPS, insulated plasterboard was removed; so the key is really vapour permeability of the insulation materials in older buildings.
From the list of insulation options above, only "Rock or mineral wool" provides high level of vapour permeability and fit for used in the permeable older buildings, cottages.
I also discussed this issue with few architects at the recent Build Show at NEC Birmingham last week, and their position re cottages U value requirement was either exempt from 0.3 all together or 0.7 being reasonable and sufficient U value to meet building regs (payback section).
I agree with you comments re 1mm of insulation; generally speaking only 1mm of vacuum would deliver a decent contribution toward U value.
Thanks Alex,We could put any target we want...but the challenge is always to meet it...
At the moment about 7 million of homes in the UK have solid walls and are those walls are NOT insulated.
Assuming 4 person per house, about 30% of the UK's population lives with U value of their walls of about 2.
That would mean large heating bills and damp in some instances as well.
My view is that the interpretation of current requirement as well as lack of funding and budget permeable insulation solutions are potentially responsible for 6 to 7 million of older houses not being insulated.
Basically house owners would chose between 1) spending money for heating vs 2) installing insulation. If option 1) works out cheaper with the simple pay back for the option 2) being 20+ years than the choice is obvious.