To pva or not to pva

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bodgeandscarper

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Just a quick one, just wondering what products everyone is using to help control suction !

Yes its amazing when its doing what you want it to do but half the time it will always do what you don't want it to do! and unless you have got half way into the wall/ceiling I don't think is no way of finding out.

Reason for asking I have some large/awkward walls to do in an old Victorian house that have been untouched/painted for years.

Do I just stick with pva?

I have used thistle bond-it etc and the wickes stuff before but its expensive and is it just pva with a colouring and sand !

has anyone used Extra time retarder, does this actually work ?

I have also used uni finish but trying to get some that's in date is a nitemare, so I have used it but it was not in date so I don't think this is a fair. It did save time on prepping the ceilings ;)

love to hear from you
 
wba or thistle bondit are good but can be costly....

Extratime slows the setting time of finish down but does nothing to control suction
 
Cost not being a issue it would be wba or thistl bondit then :)

Sorry I should have put the extra time bit on another thread, I was just wondering does it actually do what it says on the tin.
 
Pva is still a great product so f its medium sucton apply one decent coat and skim next day or if its very high use some stabilising solution let dry then pva and when tacky or dry skim. I use mocrogobetis watered down also on high suction and works well with a quicker drying time so you can skim sooner.
 
I like pva as well... I went through a phase of not using it for a few years but now I tend to only use it or unifinish...

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Just a quick one, just wondering what products everyone is using to help control suction !

Yes its amazing when its doing what you want it to do but half the time it will always do what you don't want it to do! and unless you have got half way into the wall/ceiling I don't think is no way of finding out.

Reason for asking I have some large/awkward walls to do in an old Victorian house that have been untouched/painted for years.

Do I just stick with pva?

I have used thistle bond-it etc and the wickes stuff before but its expensive and is it just pva with a colouring and sand !

has anyone used Extra time retarder, does this actually work ?

I have also used uni finish but trying to get some that's in date is a nitemare, so I have used it but it was not in date so I don't think this is a fair. It did save time on prepping the ceilings ;)

love to hear from you

Microgobetis is a little bit better than pva and sand!!!
 
4-1 sbr if high suction.. then grit on top = total control.. extra time does slow the set well but have only used it on board so couldn't tell you...
 
Try gyprime you dilute it 3-1 I think it's dear and hard to get hold of but well worth it.i used it years ago and it went miles and miles in massive house once diluted.
 
i would guess a lime plaster in this property, 2 coats of pva and skim. i only use the thistle bond it type when nothing else works, as the skim needs to be applied very thick to cover the grit
 
Just use PVA .that is all i have ever used inside and out (stand by for the na sayers) .Never felt the need to use anything else.
 
@bodgeandscarper ...

Experience mate. Us spreads only have to look at a wall/ceiling and we know how to prep it. Its that simple. Weather it needs griting, pvaing, knocking off, 1 coat of pva, 2 coats 3 coats. griting then bonding then skim. We don't even think about it we just do it. Its like driving your van you just do it.
 
Bostik stabilizer and primer,does the same as gyprime on old sand lime walls.
I have seen crazing on these walls even after 3 coats of pva.bq have it at plaster bayhttp://bostik.co.uk/diy/product/cementone/Plasterers-Stabilising-Primer/216/technicalData
 
Bostik stabilizer and primer,does the same as gyprime on old sand lime walls.
I have seen crazing on these walls even after 3 coats of pva.bq have it at plaster bayhttp://bostik.co.uk/diy/product/cementone/Plasterers-Stabilising-Primer/216/technicalData
Nothing worst than skimming over bone dry sand and cement... with all the water in the world lashed at it it can still be a royal pain in the arse

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Says thistlebond/betokntakt/micro is just pva and glue then asks about glorified cream of tartar in a sachet lol

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Thanks for the replys, yes it's experience to a certain point but there is no one that can tell wether it will hang, pull in etc until you start to apply it. Just wondering what everyone was using, I have used all.sorts over the years, is thistle bond it just sand pva and colouring?!! And the second with blue grit?!!
When using pva are you leaving 24 hours or just going in that day and paving the walls and then skimming it, as this is all added costs on adding a day prepping for applying these products and adding a day dictate if you get the job or not
 
I've never came across a substrate yet that PVA has failed on, when it does I will look in to buying these overpriced primers.
 
I only ever use sbr bonding but for plastering as I always have it to prime for my tile adhesive it's never failed me but I've not exactly got a huge catalogue of plastering work to my name
 
feb blue grit.....takes no s**t.....costs a bit more than pva but you only give it one coat....job done....as for using sbr I'm thinking of using it on my sand and cement scratch coat before I top coat and pebble dash on the big areas
 
Can't go wrong with pva. When applied and mixed correctly no end of times I've seen people just bang some pva in a bucket and fill with water. All ways measure out
 
Pva and make sure it is tacky when applying the plaster.Any other way is wrong. Any decent plasterer knows this.
 
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