Which option should I go for?

flynnyman said:
It's not about wether it works or not there is a reason your mixes are different in each coat. 3-1 is quite strong and as what's been mentioned if it's stronger than what it's going on you will have problems. It's a basic principal in rendering which goes back to the days of pyramids it's not a guessing game it really is quite simple.
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The mortar was rock solid so dnt think we wud have probs there brickie must of used 1/1 of that f**k*r..i don't think 3-1 is as bad as people say like I said its still there from previous jobs..lots of things can go wrong in rendering..Il try get a pic of this mono job but its quite far from garden where we r wrking and my fones not the best..tbf there's loads of trees growing rite nxt to it but the mono renderer shud of explained to customer u shud c it its shocking
 
keithuk said:
just a bit ,but now you say it s**t ,i will stop doing it ,your the man
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Lol I did actually write that post before the two posts before it but once I posted it I saw them so see why you think it was aimed at them two posts. Xx mono looks s**t after a couple of years if your lucky, it has the s*x appeal as soon as it's done but it is not for this country full stop. It's like a card trick when it's done but once the sun starts shinning then the winter comes it really is s**t and has no advantage over sand and cement. This is nit a dig at mono coz I do it but more often than not I talk the customer out of having it because they think it is a lifetime guarantee and they will never need to worry about it.
 
flynnyman said:
Lol I did actually write that post before the two posts before it but once I posted it I saw them so see why you think it was aimed at them two posts. Xx mono looks s**t after a couple of years if your lucky, it has the s*x appeal as soon as it's done but it is not for this country full stop. It's like a card trick when it's done but once the sun starts shinning then the winter comes it really is s**t and has no advantage over sand and cement. This is nit a dig at mono coz I do it but more often than not I talk the customer out of having it because they think it is a lifetime guarantee and they will never need to worry about it.
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Same as me ,i always say no render in the world last a life time ,and as for no need to paint thats s**t .we are on the same page on that ,but people do like the finish ,i do it all the time as you know ,just get pissed off with the mono is s**t all the time ,you may as well say all the machine guys on here are conmen !
 
keithuk said:
Same as me ,i always say no render in the world last a life time ,and as for no need to paint thats s**t .we are on the same page on that ,but people do like the finish ,i do it all the time as you know ,just get pissed off with the mono is s**t all the time ,you may as well say all the machine guys on here are conmen !
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Not really because mono is done by hand as well coz I don't own a machine, I think it looks s**t after a year, there is one by me that is less than two months old it's looks ok but when the sun shines on it it's shocking and that's down to the guys who applied it. I think it's mis sold on so many occasions and this is probably down to the fact it's going through a machine.
 
flynnyman said:
Not really because mono is done by hand as well coz I don't own a machine, I think it looks s**t after a year, there is one by me that is less than two months old it's looks ok but when the sun shines on it it's shocking and that's down to the guys who applied it. I think it's mis sold on so many occasions and this is probably down to the fact it's going through a machine.
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As you rightly say yes it can be done by hand ,but Weber Pral M is best by machine (the M means machine ) as for s**t work you get that with all work done by a bad tradesmen as you know mate
 
keithuk said:
As you rightly say yes it can be done by hand ,but Weber Pral M is best by machine (the M means machine ) as for s**t work you get that with all work done by a bad tradesmen as you know mate
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Oh I know it's the same as the weber pral AC (the ac means any c**t) lol every job I have been to and the customer is aware of mono, usually calling it k rend they have been filled with bullshit and usually off a website. I live in a leafy area and this s**t is no good for it also anywhere with a high volume of traffic the same.
 
flynnyman said:
Oh I know it's the same as the weber pral AC (the ac means any c**t) lol every job I have been to and the customer is aware of mono, usually calling it k rend they have been filled with bullshit and usually off a website. I live in a leafy area and this s**t is no good for it also anywhere with a high volume of traffic the same.
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I respect its not for you and your customers ,think we will leave it there !lol, peace
 
The reason i think more Mono jobs are looking bad is people come on forums and facebook sites get the loose info on how its done ,then get told its £50m2 !and bang it on !if you cannot render you cannot do mono ,they are the same to get flat
 
I'm not the brainiest spread on here but can anyone tell me if I remember righty,I am sure I read somewhere that different render mix ratio and dash from 1800 - 1940s was decided by the location in the country and sometimes by which way facing the wall was I.e if it was going to get hammered by the weather.
Thanks Vince
 
flynnyman said:
Am I the only one who tyroleans straight onto the top coat without rubbing up on the same day as applying the top coat?
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we do give the render a quick once over with the float then spray the same day, spraying in sand and cement.
 
theplasterman said:
I'm not the brainiest spread on here but can anyone tell me if I remember righty,I am sure I read somewhere that different render mix ratio and dash from 1800 - 1940s was decided by the location in the country and sometimes by which way facing the wall was I.e if it was going to get hammered by the weather.
Thanks Vince
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Every job is different
 
Grumpy as you can see it will be a lottery what mix you have and how it's applied. Go for a pre bagged render then at least you know the material is blended
Arti said:
Why would you put lime in the tyrolean? You want lime in the top coat to provide suction for the tyrolean

Sent from my D2303 using Tapatalk
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I usually do 4-1-0.5 top before Tyrolean. Just put a dash in the tyrolean for good luck.

Everyone does it different, most plasterers don't give a f**k about mixes etc, they just slap it on, get paid. That's why I suggest going for a pre bagged, hopefully then theres less chance of failure, providing basic steps are followed.
 
Problem with mono is there's no money in it...like skimming these days, people read the back of the bag, slap it on don't bother ruling, scrape it off, job done. If you can piss you can mono. Plastering is getting too easy.
 
FreeD said:
Problem with mono is there's no money in it...like skimming these days, people read the back of the bag, slap it on don't bother ruling, scrape it off, job done. If you can piss you can mono. Plastering is getting too easy.
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How much render do you spray?
 
stokeplasterer said:
I was always told the top coat should be weaker than the scratch coat
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What do you think happens when you put CPI bagged render scratch then top? You don't buy different bags for the top coat do you? British standards say that render on top shouldn't be stronger than the scratch, but nothing wrong with the same mix, personally I think it's better to have the same mix top and bottom, than it's as one coat.
 
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