I've had a belle 1600w good machine.
I've now got a mm30 1800w and it's got more grunt. I mix render 4 bags at a time with a 200mm paddle no bother.
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In this small job situation we use natcem 35.
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Skim as soon as it's cooled down.
No idea how much it costs but it's rock hard in half hour and gets hot to the touch.
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If the jobs big enought to spray in dri coat it's gonna cost an arm and a leg in materials. Would it not be cheaper to spray in CPI General purpose which I think contains waterproofer.
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I work for a competitor company and they offered more money. It's a simple maths exercise I would have worked for the highest bidder.
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This might be long winded but here goes.
A place is named, let's say MC Donald's......
The first person to post a pick of there van at MC Donald's wins that round.
The winner picks the next place.....could be next to a police car or by a Welsh road sign, on a round about. What ever.....
I...
I don't think you need it with rendaid.
It would be slow but you could grind all the paint off.
Webber will advise better.
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Cheers marra. I didnt have the patience lol.
I've cut the backs and snapped them round.
A few bags of bonding will sort it
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Been using them today. How flexible are they meant to be?
They don't want to bend and snap a lot.
We're boarding a barrel ceiling that curves through 90 degrees over 1200mm.
Get a few damp firms in to quote and spec the work. There's loads in your area. Just remember to ask how much a inspection is as some charge.
There's a lot of people on here that don't believe in rising damp. How ever I do and it's a big industry.
PCA registered company's are supposed to be...
Rich brown I think. An old estate car if I remember right. The cost of tax etc was less than a couple of skips a year.
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I worked along side a guy the other week, who used a 14" plazifex for the whole set!
He thought he got the wall flatter with it.
I thought it was shite all over the place.
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Your the plasterer you should be advising on the best way to do it.
If he wants lime lite I'm guessing there's been a damp issue.
No way would I out browning anywhere near it!
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I had some from travis near Skipton. The lad in the yard said the local lads cut it with river sand. Never heard of that before.
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Big area that!!!
I would get a few spreads in to nail it in 1. Just so you can say you did it!!!
Done well when painted if you joined it no one would tell.
Tape joint an option?
Sub it to a machine lad. Curry got a vid of a 200m2 set on utube!
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It's a 9" solid brick barn. 10mm ish joints I'm going to grind out.
As for the porosity, I've no idea I would say medium suction if I were to be rendering it.
I've no spec to follow and when I asked for 1 was told to just get on with it. The client seems to think the conservation bloke at...
I have about 30m2 of pointing to do next week in lime.
Can I just mix NHL 3.5 at 3:1 with regular yellow building sand and point as I would with a cement mix? Never used it before.
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Sand is always different. 2 merchants 4 miles apart from me have totally different plastering sand. 1 is better than the other. 1 red 1 yellow. The colour means nothing. I've had crap red and yellow.
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I'm sure sika 1 system is alright to use for drinking water tanks. Should be fine for fish pond. I would guess all renders will eventually turn green.
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A 3 way race.......pft lads and there machine, Ryan and his machines and flynnyman by hand.
Scottie 10 bags would still whip them all
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Either way would do. I guess if your not sure your not a plasterer???
A sbr slurry left over night will kill the suction giving you more time level the walls.
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Hahaha I fail to believe someone of 14 years on the trowel can't price a job.
In seriousness it would depend on whether your going through the openings or not, on linear metreage on revels etc
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I'm in the same boat as you. It's something like the gas metre reading mulitplied by the electric metre reading, this giving a metre squared!
Hope this helps x x
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