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What's the background? Brick, stone? If using NHL- Normally I like to do a Harling or stipple coat first just to even up the suction and give a good key to the wall. Allow 2/3 days then apply scratch. Leave until it's hard enough you can't leave a thumb indent but still soft enough you can...

How are you going to apply? By hand or Machine/Hopper gun?

If you use fibres you can use these in both the scratch and float coat. Helps with resistance to cracking and shrinkage. If you want to use hair or have to use use hair then only do so in your scratch but not the float as hair may stick through.

Tbh no I don't do void tests. Rule of thumb is 1:3 but with NHL you can go 1:2.5 as you won't get as creamy a mix as you do if using putty.

You should use Lime and maintain the breathability of the building. Injections DPMs are a waste of money. As you said yourself they should have spotted the cause of the damp and cured it. Not just charge you to drill holes and inject. All Damproofing is a waste of time unless you resolve the...

Ideally you want sharp at 4/5mm down. Preferably an angular sand rather than rounded but if you use fibres in it that would get over the use of rounded and help with shrinkage.

Use NHL 3.5 for all coats. You don't need to make the mix any weaker as you come through the coats. The same mix is fine for all coats. You can get premixed wet or dry. Hair already added just cut bags open and knock up. Still works out cheaper plus you don't have to guage anything other than...

Mix for NHL tends to be 1:3/1:2.5 Lime to Sand. You want a washed sharp sand. Pit dug, dredged tend to contain salt which you don't want. If your using a bell mixer then remember to allow it to mix for at least 20 mins. Most common problem is over wetting the mix and not letting it mix thoroughly.

You have NHL 3.5, Natural Hydraulic Lime. Or you have Hydrated lime?

I wouldn't scrape the high spots, just bond them and skim. A lot of the artex ceilings contain asbestos so better to bond or board if you can.

What's the maximum grain size that can go through these?

Lime skim can be made yourself if you really want to. Use either a putty/slaked lime or hydraulic. NOT hydrated lime. Use kiln dried sand as your aggregate. MIx usually 1:2 Lime to Sand or 1.5:1 which will create almost same texture as multi. Is cheaper to buy it though and just knock it up...

Yeah it is off eBay. Don't get what you mean by money gram though?

The problem I have at the moment is that the machine is in Scotland and it was going to be sent down. I will try and find out the VIN number though. The guy is offering 14 day return though so not too sure whether it is too good to be true or whether should just bite the bullet and take in to...

Are you able to get the spares for them still? As in if the guy has it set up for screeding I could get the gun suited for rendering? So less than 2k is good for a machine with only 500 hours?

Hi, not too sure on what the brand is but have seen a V2 rendering machine up for sale. Are these pumps any good? Does anyone know the spec of them, what kind of things you can pump and rough meterage? Or at least point me to the manufacturer so I can find out? Any help would be great. Thanks

I get its a scrape finish but it seems to be the standard. Why doesn't anyone finish it flat as the norm? Whats so good about having a scrape finish, if it was S&C then it would 95% of the time be flat. Scrape or textured would look crap.

So why does everyone use the scratchers and leave it open texture? Is there a reason or just quicker for Labour?

Can Mono be left to a smooth finish as you would S&C or does it always have to be the **** texture that catches all the dirt within weeks?

Hey you can use either of the 2. The hair itself doesn't break down from moisture it gets eaten by the alkaline. Once the Lime has cured this is perfectly fine and has been used traditionally for 100's of years. If you are concerned about the hair then you can use fibres. It is not the...

Have been looking to see if any one else has asked similar question but no luck. I am looking at getting a machine for rendering but wanting to hire one prior to taking the plunge. I will be using for 3 coat render work as using lime. My question is though, due to the stonework not being flat...

Use Lime Skim. Not Gypsum. you can get breathable emulsion which covers as well if not better than modern emulsions.Using Lime will maintain your house for years to come as well as being better for your health. If you have the whole house to do the cost of using Lime instead of gypsum is very...

I have spoke to PFT. Just waiting for a chance to get over there and trial one.

Hi, the concrete floor is you main issue with the DPC membrane underneath. As the moisture comes up under the floor this hits the membrane whihch then directs it towards your walls. Ideally for the long term fix would be to take up your floor and relay using a Limecrete floor. This is both...

You could try Fibre Lime Plaster Suppliers This is fibred and designed for over skimming. Still breathable and could sponge finish. 3 Coat is the best option but this might be the compromise your after.

I Mean Natural Lime rendering. Hydraulic/Non Hydraulic depending on circumstances. Sometimes hair or fibre. Normally about 4mm down.

Forgot to say, I only do lime rendering. Hence the no bag renders. ALso use quite sharp sand so unsure if this affects whether can be pumped. Likewise whether your able to use machine if mix has hair or fibres in.

Hi all, Was looking in to whether its worth getting or even possible to get a pump for render. Something suitable to use site mixed render rather than bagged. Have all the appropriate mixers for a good brew as hand apply it all, but wondered whether could just get machine can load the pre mix...

The guy will be asking you back in a few years time to hack off the SandC and replace it with LIme as the damp will just get worse if he encases it in the hard stuff.

Depends if wearing shorts and how the wind blows!!

Based in Wiltshire mate

Yes you can just wet down and over skim with lime finishing plaster. You could use a product called DG27 which is designed to act as a primer for over skimming. Is completely breathable and will give you a key to skim onto. If not wanting to use this then you would want to scuff up the...

Hi all, work for small building company mainly working in restoration work with regards to lime mortar rather than modern materials. Always use local plasterer for modern, can't compete or even match the work but purely stick to lime rendering and plastering. Looking to find out info and help...

Dont use limelite it is not much better than using sand and cement. Use a non hydraulic based render or a hydraulic. Both are available are pre batched mixes so pretty easy to get hold of. If you use a 3/2 top coat mix that should match the texture as close to the multi finish.

Hi if you are using it just for the finish then you may as well use multi finish and sponge it to open the texture. If you need to lime wash to match the colour of the walls if these are in lime you will need to use lime on the plasterboard. Another alternative to DG27 is using St Austier R50...

Hi a good company to speak to for advice and material costs are Ty Mawr lime or Mike Wye Associates. Both are helpful companies and have vast knowledge on all lime products. Just make sure that any paint that is used is breathable otherwise these will defeat the use of lime.

Lime all the way! Great looking job!