Damp spreading

mark121 said:
ok i have been going through lots of threads ....and the answers are not all the same ...they all conflict ? so who is right and who is wrong...some chap asked a question and the answers are all different then starts a debate off with no real answer ??? you need to do this ...why would you do that ....well if you do that then the room above...dont use cream its s**t.....no such thing as rising damp.....a lot of damp companys around here all have the same wording on there web page.....


Dry zone are on the case e mail them this morning were very helpful..just waiting for response
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The approach do damp handling is different in modern and older, traditionaly built propoerties. You might be interested in our recent publication on this topic:

https://greenbuilding.co.uk/insulating-masonry-walls-of-old-stone-cottages-and-listed-buildings/
 
Damp spreading


Could the certificate have a star like this
 
mark121 said:
just having a look now ...will have a proper look tonight ..i guess its difficult as everybody is a expert and also wants to sell there products on a very competitve market.
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It would appear you're the only expert on here
 
mark121 said:
just having a look now ...will have a proper look tonight ..i guess its difficult as everybody is a expert and also wants to sell there products on a very competitve market.
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Hi Mark, sure, you are absolutly right.

But selling our material we meet customers who deal with impermeable materials installed in their tradtiaonlly built homes with the outcome being trapped moisture.

The physics process is not that complex, let me try to explain based on this example - if you run and use impermeable plastic coat - it would be soaking wet on inside as vapour generated by your body would not be able to escape. if you would use permeable jumper, you are likely to stay dry. that's the way how tradittionally built propoerties work, which are typically built before 1919 with solid stone or brick walls without cavities.

Modern buildings with cavities operate a different scenario, DPC, memebranes, vapour extraction....so no need for brethability really.

But those two construction method can not and should not be combined.

There are many brethable materiasls on the market as well, not just Bauwer.
 
Bauwer said:
Hi Mark, sure, you are absolutly right.

But selling our material we meet customers who deal with impermeable materials installed in their tradtiaonlly built homes with the outcome being trapped moisture.

The physics process is not that complex, let me try to explain based on this example - if you run and use impermeable plastic coat - it would be soaking wet on inside as vapour generated by your body would not be able to escape. if you would use permeable jumper, you are likely to stay dry. that's the way how tradittionally built propoerties work, which are typically built before 1919 with solid stone or brick walls without cavities.

Modern buildings with cavities operate a different scenario, DPC, memebranes, vapour extraction....so no need for brethability really.

But those two construction method can not and should not be combined.

There are many brethable materiasls on the market as well, not just Bauwer.
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There you go a simple answer to a question....
 
Thank you for your enquiry and patience.


Lots of interesting pictures. It would be interesting to see the outside as you mention that the grass comes right up to the wall, but you don’t mention the ground level. It could be a tanking situation.


The first picture has a caption saying that the damp was coming through only two weeks after replastering. It looks like the wall has already been painted, so the damp could be residual moisture from the plaster that is behind the paint. We can’t be certain, but it looks like a gypsum has been used (this is based largely on the colour). If gypsum has been used then this is very susceptible to moisture damage. The previous plaster may have been lime based given that the apparent age of the cottage.


The first thing that needs to be checked is the ground level and Drybase Flex or a slurry used for the below ground section of wall. Dryzone or Dryrod then needs to be installed in the mortar above the ground level. As the mortar lines are irregular the spacing should be reduced to 100 mm. Replastering with either the Damp Resistant Plaster (preferred if substrate is strong enough) or Hi-Lime and then allow the wall to dry for as long as possible before redecorating.


The key question is where is the moisture coming from? Is it rising damp or is it penetrating damp?
 
Mark you have wasted more than enough of our time,I got the jist of you about two pages in!is there any wonder you are getting s**t from other forum members.do your self a favour stick your hand in your pocket ye tight arse and pay somone to sort out your property,it could do with it!the whole lot in and out!!!
 
bopper said:
Mark you have wasted more than enough of our time,I got the jist of you about two pages in!is there any wonder you are getting s**t from other forum members.do your self a favour stick your hand in your pocket ye tight arse and pay somone to sort out your property,it could do with it!the whole lot in and out!!!
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He has already wasted time and money and is back at square one lol
 
mark121 said:
Hello everyone,

Hoping you can spread some light on my problems ? just had a wall re plastered the damp has come back through and spread like wild fire.even onto walls that were never damp.three days after the damp appeared its starting to shrink.....i was told by someone that the plaster may all have to come off back to brickwork !!

its a grade 2 listed cottage ive owned for 20 years and its a mystery.The wall where the problem started always seems to blow the plaster out in certain areas after some time ,what would be the best course of action so i dont keep getting hassle from the same area of damp.And in another room my friend told me to put one coat damp seal on a 4 x 2 damp patch and the damp is spreading should i take the plaster off ? do i need vents fitting ...I would really appreciate any help or advice you can give me ....also should the plaster have been a lime plaster to let the walls breath ?

The writing below is from a google search not my writing....

The solution is to remove render and let the walls dry out. If brickwork is damaged and needs repair or replacement, it should be done with lime mortar. If it is proposed to re-render, you must always uselime render, which can breathe freely, and allows trapped moisture to escape.
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use the gypsum half below on wall and nothing is the best option and moisture problems is also solved and according to damp surveys Hampshire damp cause of many diseases in children like a
cough, eyes problems ...
Damp spreading
 
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