Damp spreading

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ok i have been going through lots of threads ....and the answers are not all the same ...they all conflict ? so who is right and who is wrong...some chap asked a question and the answers are all different then starts a debate off with no real answer ??? you need to do this ...why would you do that ....well if you do that then the room above...dont use cream its s**t.....no such thing as rising damp.....a lot of damp companys around here all have the same wording on there web page.....
Marshy said:
Dry zones is very good too mate
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Dry zone are on the case e mail them this morning were very helpful..just waiting for response
 
mark121 said:
ok i have been going through lots of threads ....and the answers are not all the same ...they all conflict ? so who is right and who is wrong...some chap asked a question and the answers are all different then starts a debate off with no real answer ??? you need to do this ...why would you do that ....well if you do that then the room above...dont use cream its s**t.....no such thing as rising damp.....a lot of damp companys around here all have the same wording on there web page.....


Dry zone are on the case e mail them this morning were very helpful..just waiting for response
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Do you think they were very helpful because they have damp products to sell.

Anyway you have bored us all to death now
 
mark121 said:
ok i have been going through lots of threads ....and the answers are not all the same ...they all conflict ? so who is right and who is wrong...some chap asked a question and the answers are all different then starts a debate off with no real answer ??? you need to do this ...why would you do that ....well if you do that then the room above...dont use cream its s**t.....no such thing as rising damp.....a lot of damp companys around here all have the same wording on there web page.....


Dry zone are on the case e mail them this morning were very helpful..just waiting for response
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There response will involve buying their products :) the amount of times I've given simple advise for them to ignore it and get some idiot in to inject their house then f**k off leaving a plasterer to sort. You've had my advise I am out please post up the response from dryzone it will be interesting to read.
 
Dry zone are on the case e mail them this morning were very helpful..just waiting for response[/QUOTE]


I haven't bothered reading through the thread but I can assure you, Dryzone ( I think you mean Safeguard actually), will be very helpful.

I'm a bit of a fortune teller as well you know. I bet it'll be rising damp
 
Lastlaff said:
Until you make your decision, you should remove the grass that meets your building - dig one foot out and two foot down and fill this with pea shingle - that would be my first step to allow the bottom area to dry out. Don't wait for the council.
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this is what ive done before plastering inside.
gonna rip the rest up when i find the time.
 

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Tell you what, give me £1k and I'll garauntee to sort the problem out. No need for safeguard etc and I'll feel a bit like an eco warrior by not letting the Internet get worn out by 1 ridiculous thread
 
algeeman said:
this is what ive done before plastering inside.
gonna rip the rest up when i find the time.
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Rising damp is all about voodoo so your little moat won't stop it ;-)
Can't believe no-one has red flagged mark121 yet.........suckers
 
Arti said:
Rising damp is all about voodoo so your little moat won't stop it ;-)
Can't believe no-one has red flagged mark121 yet.........suckers
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the vents were covered it needed digging out.......

i like my little trench.
 

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so in english just bloody well say what to do ...FFS forget the outside its being done.....are you all afraid of something .......your all tradesman but with all conflicting views ?? everybody knows rising damp is a con or is it ? I contacted safeguard like a few mentioned and know a couple are saying the injection and creams are complete bullshit.....so if they are bullshit it stupid terms how do you repair walls. traditional methods no modern crap ? I will post the e mail from safeguard today or when i get it.I just dont get how so many people in the same trade have conflicting views....
 
There is no problem with the house mate! It's all in your head, calm down and carry on with your life. Seems like you are not listening - you can't sort it before you found it and that starts with outside!!!!!
 
mark121 said:
so in english just bloody well say what to do ...FFS forget the outside its being done.....are you all afraid of something .......your all tradesman but with all conflicting views ?? everybody knows rising damp is a con or is it ? I contacted safeguard like a few mentioned and know a couple are saying the injection and creams are complete bullshit.....so if they are bullshit it stupid terms how do you repair walls. traditional methods no modern crap ? I will post the e mail from safeguard today or when i get it.I just dont get how so many people in the same trade have conflicting views....
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You've had the solution but your saying ignore the problem lol
 
First answer i got back .......................

Good Afternoon Mark,

In that case, regarding your internal walls, you need to be using a hydraulic based lime plaster to be plastering over the top of it. Due to the damp conditions using a lime putty based mortar would prove inefficient as it would not carbonate particularly well. They hydraulic lime will give us a control of set.
Given the moisture that is being brought through the wall at present, and therefore the likelihood of salt migration, using a lime mortar of NHL 3.5 blended with a well graded sharp sand is going to be the best option. This will ensure we get a nice amount of voids within the mortar mix, allowing for moisture as a vapour to easily ingress and egress throughout. By finishing it textured, you will allow for a greater surface area for more evaporation to occur. Further more, these increased voids will allow salts to come to the surface and not crystallise within either the masonry behind or the plaster itself, which would cause them both damage.
 
mark121 said:
First answer i got back .......................

Good Afternoon Mark,

In that case, regarding your internal walls, you need to be using a hydraulic based lime plaster to be plastering over the top of it. Due to the damp conditions using a lime putty based mortar would prove inefficient as it would not carbonate particularly well. They hydraulic lime will give us a control of set.
Given the moisture that is being brought through the wall at present, and therefore the likelihood of salt migration, using a lime mortar of NHL 3.5 blended with a well graded sharp sand is going to be the best option. This will ensure we get a nice amount of voids within the mortar mix, allowing for moisture as a vapour to easily ingress and egress throughout. By finishing it textured, you will allow for a greater surface area for more evaporation to occur. Further more, these increased voids will allow salts to come to the surface and not crystallise within either the masonry behind or the plaster itself, which would cause them both damage.
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hahahaha
..dont you know spreads spend their first 10 years being trained by NASA.
 
mark121 said:
First answer i got back .......................

Good Afternoon Mark,

In that case, regarding your internal walls, you need to be using a hydraulic based lime plaster to be plastering over the top of it. Due to the damp conditions using a lime putty based mortar would prove inefficient as it would not carbonate particularly well. They hydraulic lime will give us a control of set.
Given the moisture that is being brought through the wall at present, and therefore the likelihood of salt migration, using a lime mortar of NHL 3.5 blended with a well graded sharp sand is going to be the best option. This will ensure we get a nice amount of voids within the mortar mix, allowing for moisture as a vapour to easily ingress and egress throughout. By finishing it textured, you will allow for a greater surface area for more evaporation to occur. Further more, these increased voids will allow salts to come to the surface and not crystallise within either the masonry behind or the plaster itself, which would cause them both damage.
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What was the second answer?
 
mark121 said:
First answer i got back .......................

Good Afternoon Mark,

In that case, regarding your internal walls, you need to be using a hydraulic based lime plaster to be plastering over the top of it. Due to the damp conditions using a lime putty based mortar would prove inefficient as it would not carbonate particularly well. They hydraulic lime will give us a control of set.
Given the moisture that is being brought through the wall at present, and therefore the likelihood of salt migration, using a lime mortar of NHL 3.5 blended with a well graded sharp sand is going to be the best option. This will ensure we get a nice amount of voids within the mortar mix, allowing for moisture as a vapour to easily ingress and egress throughout. By finishing it textured, you will allow for a greater surface area for more evaporation to occur. Further more, these increased voids will allow salts to come to the surface and not crystallise within either the masonry behind or the plaster itself, which would cause them both damage.
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Take it this is from Mike whye or another conservation company?
 
I'm with mark one this one, I've just read through this thread and am now more confused than what I was before I started.
 
I don't know why it's so simple, take off the wrong plasters, sort the outside so the water runs away then use a lime sand mortar, job done. Maybe consider EWI or IWI.
 
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