Damp spreading

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vfr12 said:
You are confusing the op I think! What he needs is tanking the walls up to the ceiling. This system is very good and proven with the time, but only after dpc injection.
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ohh here we go again ....sand and lime mix err no hold on a minute Tank wall to ceiling ....no dpc injection ..which someone already said aint worth a toss ? So who is the king of plasteres who actually knows ? someone who works with damp everyday ?
 
mark121 said:
ohh here we go again ....sand and lime mix err no hold on a minute Tank wall to ceiling ....no dpc injection ..which someone already said aint worth a toss ? So who is the king of plasteres who actually knows ? someone who works with damp everyday ?
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The house worked perfectly fine once so you need to put it back to the way it was its that simple.
 
Tanking is, as its name suggest a method of sealing a wall to prevent water ingress (think 'water tank)
often mis-specified as a cure for damp problems it is basically a waterproof cementious slurry (wet mix) that is applied to a surface to prevent water penetrating the internal surface of a building..
The idea is almost like coating the bottom of a pond to keep the water in but in reverse... it keeps water out..
example... an extreme one..
lets just say the ground (not floor, ground is external) level of your house is above the dpc level by about 3 feet, and the soil is against the outside of your building. The wall is of 9" solid construction.
Now, the water draining into the soil is also soaking into your wall (its porous, see suction) and its coming through on the inside making your internal plasterwork bubble and bringing with it hygroscopic salts (that white fluff you see manifesting itself on the inside of damp buildings)
there are 4 ways of solving this..
1) lower the ground level below dpc. Problem solved.
2) install a membrane between the soil and the wall that allows water to drain away from the building. Expensive but technically possible, the membrane has an air gap allowing the wall to breathe.
3) move the soil away and paint a bitumen waterproof solution on the external and put the soil back. Doesnt let it breathe externally, whatevers in the wall is coming inside.
4) tank it.
you'd coat the internal wall with a tanking solution up to and beyond the height of the ground level, this would stop water ingress wherever the tanking is applied..
you also kill all the suction so a basic render on top is gonna be hard work.
What you dont do is stop the water thats already in the wall soaking upwards (capillary action, similar to what happens with a failed dpc) and manifesting itself above the tanked area.
So, basically, tanking is NOT really a solution to a problem though in some cases its the only thing that will work e.g. differing FLOOR levels throughout a building, the lower level needing to be tanked up to the upper level where there is a dpc installed to stop moisture going any higher..

JUST READ THIS ON THE FORUM AND I DECIDED TO GO AND BUY A GALLON OF PETROL AND SOME SWAN VESTA ....JUST CHECKING THE INSURANCE POLICY AS WE SPEAK
 
Damp spreading


I can see the damp ...yes you need a survey .....and a cream injection
 
f**k me this thread is exhausting! the truth is no one knows! damp's really f**k**g weird with lots of causes and solutions. im no expert in the slightest but seems to me as long as the outside is sorted out you could just limelite the inside, let it all breathe, make sure the plaster doesn't touch the floor.

put cream in your coffee
 
Lastlaff said:
Until you make your decision, you should remove the grass that meets your building - dig one foot out and two foot down and fill this with pea shingle - that would be my first step to allow the bottom area to dry out. Don't wait for the council.
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Yes was going to get this done ..but there is concrete and old foundations mixed in with the grass .....before my time again ..its not my land to get a mini digger in and start digging ....it will take a digger there is lots of it (concrete and bricks) The blame lays with someone and it aint with me for sure !!
 
If you can scrape any of it away from your building with a pick & shovel I would - worth it to see what's beneath.
 
mark121 said:
so whats the verdict jess...go traditional lime route ...tank the


lime mix
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But you may want to consider insulation, also take into account changes to the fabric of the building ie pvc Windows, heating, ventilation, chimneys, flooring so there is a bit more to consider :)
 
Apart from bed wetting I believe there has also been issues in the past at Tom jones concerts :estudioso: although these have probably dried up by now .:)
 
Arti said:
It's good gear. I use kingfishers renovating plaster all the time. It's all the same gear cos it comes from one manufacturer in the UK. Except BG's Dricoat which is dog s**t and I wouldnt class it as a renovating plaster.
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Dry zones is very good too mate
 
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