Krend on painted render questions

smudgez1000

smudgez1000

Member
View attachment 11597 View attachment 11598 Hi All ... I've gone through all the posts and not found what I'm looking for ... I'm also prepared for the 'don't do it if you don't know what you're doing' train of thought, which I get .... but here goes -

I want to get ready for sale and I need to re-render my 1850's house. its got cracked - but (mostly!) sound painted render, thats been repaired over the years and looks s**t. The walls also have a little deflection so are never going to be flat. Taking the render off isn't an option as the bricks pretty crumbly, so ... I'll go over it.

Krend rep has sent me a spec of using UF Fiber Bind at 10mm and FT on top at 10mm .... they don't seem keen to offer any more info though! So .... there's always more than one way to skin a cat ... for those who use this gear ... can you tell me what you'd use and would you put a mesh in the base coat? Would you SBR the walls first?

Basically I just need to make it look prettier than it is as I want to get it on the market by July and move on, I'll be hand applying with another local spread mate of mine and hopefully someone constantly mixing (megamix drill) ... problem is neither of us have any experience with Krend. I've got a few small areas I can practise on to get the hang of it ... but would someone mind giving me a walk through of the process?

Im particularly keen to find out timing for the base coat and top coat, i.e. I presume you top coat the next day ... but what if you top coat 3 days later? I thought about going on the gold trowel course .... but the cost of that will go a long way to the materials cost .... Like I say, this building is never going to look mint because of the deflection in the walls, and I recon with a little advise I'll be ok ...

So looking forward to someone giving me a hand here :);)

Cheers all

Clive .... Tunbridge Wells
 
my son had a rendered wall on his house that was cracked he decorated the wall with a flexible paint, it stated on the tin do not fill the crack just let the paint fill the crack. now a couple of years later there is only one crack that you can see the one that he filled.
if this is of use to you i can find out the name and type of paint tomorrow.
 
malc said:
my son had a rendered wall on his house that was cracked he decorated the wall with a flexible paint, it stated on the tin do not fill the crack just let the paint fill the crack. now a couple of years later there is only one crack that you can see the one that he filled.
if this is of use to you i can find out the name and type of paint tomorrow.
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It would be of great use if you don't mind finding out for me ... the idea of not rendering the whole house is getting more appealing - it won't look how I had planned to sell, but good enough is ok with me;)
 
smudgez1000 said:
either way, I've got repairs to do where i've put new doors in .... just wanted it to look really nice for sale
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Re rendering and painting your house will get you the same money more than likely so you'd be losing money by using krend.
Same as spending more on a better kitchen, you spend 5k or 7k your not gonna make that 2k back realistically are you it will be the same!
 
Jgreenplastering said:
Re rendering and painting your house will get you the same money more than likely so you'd be losing money by using krend.
Same as spending more on a better kitchen, you spend 5k or 7k your not gonna make that 2k back realistically are you it will be the same!
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Yeah probably ........ you know when you just want it all looking great ... I'm going to have to pull off beads and try to blend in which isn't going to work anyway ..... thats why I thought f**k it ...... time to krend it all ..... hmmmmmm ..... I need to sell this gaff so I can move on with my life so gimme more options ..... render over whats there or fix and paint as a saleable thing ?
....
 
Personally I'd paint it. When it's surveyed it will look fresh and if anything is picked up it will prob cost you less to reduce your selling price than to krend.
I'd do that an be done with it.
Your worrying to much.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Seriously... It looks like a bag of s**t.. It's been patched over badly in the past... Don't think any amount of paint will hide this s**t?! Or is there a f**k off thick paint on the market that'll do the job and look good for 6 months?!
 
If you can't afford to knock and redo ..just sell..
Nothing is free in this world

All this is Sarah Beany's fault
 
Nah.... Im Going to have to go over the top of it....it'd be bloody hard to make it look worse and painting it just won't hide the multitude of patches, proud sections and cracks. So uf fiber bind and top coat? Got a small wall at the back of the house to practise on... Anyone fancy giving me a quick run through with rough timings?!
I'd appreciate it!
 
smudgez1000 said:
Nah.... Im Going to have to go over the top of it....it'd be bloody hard to make it look worse and painting it just won't hide the multitude of patches, proud sections and cracks. So uf fiber bind and top coat? Got a small wall at the back of the house to practise on... Anyone fancy giving me a quick run through with rough timings?!
I'd appreciate it!
Click to expand...
Take some pictures with your phone select upload a file and then we can all see what you are on about
 
uf base is not for going onto paint.Krend dont do a base for paint,the best one they do is hpx and i would still full mesh and pin it. If you want a base coat for over paint you need parex parinter then use a thin coat system.
 
Jrend said:
uf base is not for going onto paint.Krend dont do a base for paint,the best one they do is hpx and i would still full mesh and pin it. If you want a base coat for over paint you need parex parinter then use a thin coat system.
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To be clear.

Hp12 will stick to paint just as well as parinter, it's an adhesive that is certed to glue polystyrene to walls.

What K rend won't do anymore is warranty over paint, even when they did their warranty only went as far as bonding to the paint, if the paint blows nowt to do with them and easy to spot. They stopped doing that as it was pointless and avoided confusion. Parex don't warranty unless you get it completely signed off before, during and after the job and good luck with that if there's any sign of the paint being more than a few days old.

A few years back everything was hp12 over paint, no pins and everything out of the dozens I've done are still fine today.
 
Jrend said:
uf base is not for going onto paint.Krend dont do a base for paint,the best one they do is hpx and i would still full mesh and pin it. If you want a base coat for over paint you need parex parinter then use a thin coat system.
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Tried to upload pics.... Still tells me the file.size is too large (it's not)
Apparently its too large for the servers!
 
Jimbob9 said:
To be clear.

Hp12 will stick to paint just as well as parinter, it's an adhesive that is certed to glue polystyrene to walls.

What K rend won't do anymore is warranty over paint, even when they did their warranty only went as far as bonding to the paint, if the paint blows nowt to do with them and easy to spot. They stopped doing that as it was pointless and avoided confusion. Parex don't warranty unless you get it completely signed off before, during and after the job and good luck with that if there's any sign of the paint being more than a few days old.

A few years back everything was hp12 over paint, no pins and everything out of the dozens I've done are still fine today.
Click to expand...

That's encouraging.. Thanks :)
 
smudgez1000 said:
It would be of great use if you don't mind finding out for me ... the idea of not rendering the whole house is getting more appealing - it won't look how I had planned to sell, but good enough is ok with me;)
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the external paint for cracks is called bedec s*p*r*lex, it has 400% elasticity, do not fill the cracks, just brush the paint into the cracks then give the wall 2 coats. the finish does come up with a bit of a sheen. my sons house was cracked as he used rib lath, but after 2 years the only crack that shows is the one he filled.
you should be able to purchase this paint online . it is on sale at kent blaxill , and earnest does both in colchester. it is not cheap £40 to £50 a pot but it does the job.
 
Jimbob9 said:
To be clear.

Hp12 will stick to paint just as well as parinter, it's an adhesive that is certed to glue polystyrene to walls.

What K rend won't do anymore is warranty over paint, even when they did their warranty only went as far as bonding to the paint, if the paint blows nowt to do with them and easy to spot. They stopped doing that as it was pointless and avoided confusion. Parex don't warranty unless you get it completely signed off before, during and after the job and good luck with that if there's any sign of the paint being more than a few days old.

A few years back everything was hp12 over paint, no pins and everything out of the dozens I've done are still fine today.
Click to expand...

Nice to see someone talking sense instead of doom for once. HP12 is great gear, used it on dozens of houses over all sorts and never had a failure.
 
Jimbob9 said:
To be clear.

Hp12 will stick to paint just as well as parinter, it's an adhesive that is certed to glue polystyrene to walls.

What K rend won't do anymore is warranty over paint, even when they did their warranty only went as far as bonding to the paint, if the paint blows nowt to do with them and easy to spot. They stopped doing that as it was pointless and avoided confusion. Parex don't warranty unless you get it completely signed off before, during and after the job and good luck with that if there's any sign of the paint being more than a few days old.

A few years back everything was hp12 over paint, no pins and everything out of the dozens I've done are still fine today.
Click to expand...
Where in my post did I mention hp12?
 
smudgez1000 said:
So how long can I leave the base before top coating? And is it easy to mix in a bath? say 3 bags at a time?
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Depends on the top coat, next day for mineral bagged gear or at least a week, ideally 2, for the bucket thin coats.

I'd be tempted to suggest a thin coat in your situation ,lot less weight hanging on paint.

I'd be even more tempted to suggest hiring a scabbler and getting messy for a few hours getting the paint off.
 
I had a spec from k rend for going over paint work and it's stucanet lath system with if fiber base at 10mm then k1.

That's nice n cheap!!! [emoji43]

What about using thermalime? Iv used it internally over paintwork but you can also use it externally. Easy to use, lightweight. Rules off n floats up nicely and minimal prep. Doesn't look as good as k rend but ur selling it anyway!
 
Not heard of it Jim? I spend most of my time nobbing around inside with hardwall and multi.

What about this bauwer product from Alexander... Ill put my house up for his mega test, promotional thingamy bob
 
Jim85 said:
I had a spec from k rend for going over paint work and it's stucanet lath system with if fiber base at 10mm then k1.

That's nice n cheap!!! [emoji43]

What about using thermalime? Iv used it internally over paintwork but you can also use it externally. Easy to use, lightweight. Rules off n floats up nicely and minimal prep. Doesn't look as good as k rend but ur selling it anyway!
Click to expand...
What's It like over painted render? If it sticks and I can towel it on I'm there!!
I'm just gonna get confused with which way to go!
 
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