Plastering over artex

Skimming over artex is the bread and butter work of the domestic spread, also site spreads for that matter; when I was a young site animal (about 60 years ago, I'm well in my 80s now) an artex ceiling overskim on a Saturday bumped your money. I did well over 600,000 artex over skims before I discovered the @zombie mix. I'd never heard of it or seen it. It was a game changer. Even on a heavy artex ( it's not the heaviness of the artex it's the dips and hollows that are the problem) so our process ; after much trial, error and alteration is thus: apply PVA then prep, if first bone dry then you have "high suction" apply second coat. If still wet then you have "low suction" run a dry roller over area to ensure equal distribution. 1st coat skim approximately 3 -4 handfuls bonding per bag , let set firm then 2nd coat. Nice and thin , will feel like your giving it a rub with a little gear if your catching it right.
45m2 over artex done here, finished for 12, on the next job for 12.30
Plastering over artex
Plastering over artex
 
lurpak said:
Not here to be liked luv lol. I’ve already said we agree to disagree.. i use pva for everything never had an issue.

Not slating grit. I’ll use it when no suction. Just think to use it constantly is bonkers. It’s expensive and takes ages to apply.
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Tinytom said:
Hit the nail on the head there. Why people use grit on high suction backgrounds I’ll never understand
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who uses grit on high suction backgrounds?

that's not it's purpose,it's purpose is to give a mechanical key on non porous low suck backgrounds.....a bit like painted artex.
 
lurpak said:
Not here to be liked luv lol. I’ve already said we agree to disagree.. i use pva for everything never had an issue.

Not slating grit. I’ll use it when no suction. Just think to use it constantly is bonkers. It’s expensive and takes ages to apply.
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Never said I use grit constantly either.....something else you've 'misread' ;)

I do use pva but only on high suction.

Grits are only expensive if you pay the price the builders merchants want for it.

Negotiate and you can get it cheap......real cheap if you use it a lot,and in reality it doesn't take 'ages' to apply.
Not as quick as it is to apply pva i grant you but not ages not when you're used to using it :maraca:
 
carl-the-plasterer said:
Never said I use grit constantly either.....something else you've 'misread' ;)

I do use pva but only on high suction.

Grits are only expensive if you pay the price the builders merchants want for it.

Negotiate and you can get it cheap......real cheap if you use it a lot,and in reality it doesn't take 'ages' to apply.
Not as quick as it is to apply pva i grant you but not ages not when you're used to using it :maraca:
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Is that how your forearms got so big banging on the grit lol.

Seriously tho if it works for u I don’t see a problem.

Agee to disagree. You’ll come to
 
lurpak said:
Is that how your forearms got so big banging on the grit lol.

Seriously tho if it works for u I don’t see a problem.

Agee to disagree. You’ll come to
Click to expand...
lurpak said:
Is that how your forearms got so big banging on the grit lol.

Seriously tho if it works for u I don’t see a problem.

Agee to disagree. You’ll come to
Click to expand...


lol partly yes.......but mostly it's down to excessive,aggressive ham shanking :bananahappy:
 
Some contact artex used on new builds and cheapo jobs back in 80s/90s had little body and very soft. The standard artex was a little harder I found but twice the price of contract artex. Stipple was a thin mix so softer than other patterns when dry whichever artex was used. Pva makes artex soft from the wet and can come away from backing or the surface of the artex can de laminate. I find sealing the day before gives a hard solid surface although many don't want to make 2 trips which means you can get problems.
 
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