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he pisses in the dab! ohhh! secret out

good spreads know not to render in temps lower than 3-5. iv had builders o the phone before saying where are you?> its a lovely day etc.... im like, but temps a gunna drop to the 2-3s at night, aint worth the risk.... iv even had mates calling me up saying the same builder has called them...

might use a board for lots of hardwall etc, never skim, not needed, just another thing to get dirty and clean imo.

i just use the big gorilla ones, about a tenner and easy to move about and clean!

you wont get those bricks looking anywhere near presentable im afraid. tell costumer its a no go.

sounds pikey as fook that lol, so half your wall will be hollow and the top half solid, nice..... it might work if the tanking holds up buy the render stages also help to hold back further damp.

man thats a strong scratch mix.

but would it not have been the same result WITHOUT the bonding!? lol thats the question...

i 3 coat :RpS_thumbsup: trick with 1 coating board is not to put it on too thick, as it just ripples and goes unlevel.

one coat sponge coming up then.... :RpS_thumbup:

no, only rule my top coat, not scratch, unless the wall is allllll over place and needs building out.

im guessing its a 45 degree angle!? cottage id leave it straight. why make it harder by rolling into one and having bigger hit.

lol, na have refiner H handle, for spread and render, works well at only 250 quid! i wouldnt be paying out any more for one that does same job.

you know its flat/level coz you put it on with skill, lol jokes. but you do get to know its level by feel and look tbh if you doing it for while. or just run around with a straight edge and check if your anal bout it. 4-1 with 1-2 caps of waterproof/freeflow and bit of plaz for work ability...

yeah i know, dont know why they dont make one,iv cut a pvc corner bead before and made good curve, and used the thin coat flexi just for the shape before too. but that plstic trim fror windows is good idea, not tryed that one before.

this. those ruber spade things are quite god though, iv used a sauspan before to form a uniform curve lol but just free hand best.

you can only get away with sponge work if the background is flat, 1 coat sponge that is, if its too uneven its just hard work and only shaves off around 20 mins over all time than 2 coat, if you actually work it out( me and mate done side by side 1 and 2 coat) i like a nice big hit in morning...

to me its just another wall, just a curvy one lol i do love doing things like this though as it keeps you on your toes a bit, but once youv done it once, its all the bloody same ay..... just slightly different lol

iv got an old but clean astra van mk3 lol the engine blew last year 1.7 diesel at 123,000 miles , was cheaper for me to swop over engines than buy another van at the time, got a 1.4 astra car engine in it now lol only took me a day to swop over and been running great since... got MOT due march...

how much!! :RpS_blink: you can theoretically use a stick to knock up muck you know, they are free

lol, maybe, a pic would be needed to see tbh. first of all, stop troweling up before the plaster is brown....

small hollows or bumps?? coz they mean diff things...

im still not sure why yiu cant just use a flexi bead or pvc coner one cut and bent round!? should get decent fix in the pug joints as it looks like brick arch.

2 quid with a coffee in gregs NOMNOM

each to their own, i dont and have never really used it, not needed imo. iv used it a fair bit on prep for backgrounds, but not in the mix.

​in that case talk away, what you wanna know.

seems an odd job to be wanting lime, not like its a barn or nothing.... did they ask special for it? personally id just free hand it , you get plenty of time to work it and if it looks good by eye then its good. if you ply it up and spend time faffing and going to something it might look ok up...

do you need to be a member to talk dollor round here then!? wtf

they were lol all done, used dri wall adhisive in end and 4 screws in each, lets hope they stay up lol . got some pics too but who want to see those!? lol cheers guys

yeah thats most likely it, i try getting the boys out the habbit coz its peevs me off but we are all taught diff so meh :RpS_thumbup:

you can see if the wings are out though and chop it off,, but some jobs i see the whole lot like it lol

i mean every fooking corner bead lol half the time leaving great big holes between 90 degree corners where the bead mesh original was lol and half time too messing a perfectly clean factory cut edge to butt up too with a chewed up shite one coz they have cut it funny on the angle lol but yeah...

same, i havnt advertised in years and im busier than ever.... does anyone else here cut the beads like arrows when fitting to corners?? cos im seeing more and more younger folk doing it and wondering why the fook lol

found a pic of the culprit in question.... hope link works

ahh lime render! my bad, just form it, wouldnt bother with plywood etc just use some skill

cheers mate, thats what i was going to do with marking out the joist, you just explained it a lot better than i did lol but sounds a good idea to then replace the rose and mark and drill on the bench rather than just trying it straight off the bat like i was going to lol cheers pal

i did think that but how am i going to know where to drill, 1 hole i can line up easy by turning the rose to hit a joist, but 2 or 3!? im sure it will all become apparent tomorrow lol when im there doing it, norm easier once your at it than thinking about it. lol

flexi bead, easy

only when tacky, or its like tanking no. im with you anyways, never in mix, i use free flow for years with no problems or come backs.. 1 or 2 shots in EACH mix.... 4.1 scratch.

oh i know exactaly what the problem is, my worry though is now if iv started something or once i stop and decorate the spots will go away.... i use it as my junk room right now and tumble yes, no window open either. they look to be screwed on now i can see all these dots eveywhere lol

just glue for me. normaly sbr but pva will do.

cheers mate, large as in biggest iv put up, around 60cm diameter iirr. more worried of the weight of it, as im doing it alone. be alreet im sure. cheers for the pattern tip! im not sure what people mean by finding the fixing holes?? i was just gunna find the joists then mark a line acrosss...

yeah, think its something like 1 part to 40-50 iirr. 2 caps is enough, sometimes just the 1, depends on conditions.

im gunna go with what feels right, watery pva both not to seal but just slow suction. and yeah i will thanks :P

long as you dilute pva to the correct measures it can be used as many things, a sealer, stabilizer and adhesion. ie, put neat pva on dry/dusty suface and you ll get a dusty skin left over once dry, no good as a key..just acts like a layer between the 2.... watery pva the same background and it...

nice one, pretty much as i was going to do, cheers for tips lads, sure it be alreet, ill get some pics and report back, doing it friday. ps, dont know what your suppose to be charging per rose but iv hit her for 100 quid to fit 2 with materials lol should only take few hours

im just starting to do up my new house which is 1970s ish with big windows and waffer thin cavity, no central heating either right now and there is mold spots everywhere and under some of the upstairs windows too from condensation and puddles on sills. doing a room at a time and fitted trickle...

cheers, im hoping to find the center of ceiling, get diameter of rose and draw the circle on ceiling then start hunting for joists, should be at least 2 within the circle id have drawn, mark the line across the circle so once the rose is dabbed up i can see where the joist is, drill then screw...

lol, iv been skimming 16 years and never used such expensive glue lol its just glue with aggregate right , n some green die.....

so im good to go with just wetting the stuff in and using board adhesive yeah, what about the screws....do i pre-drill the rose first