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Its only as good as the paint though...

Everything we do is just pinned.

Could you define "water penetrating the render?" I'm assuming that you mean its getting in the house, which if that is the case has sod all to do with the render. The house should be water tight without the render applied and you certainly shouldn't be depending on a render to make it water...

Great. Both the K1 and Silicone is top gear.

Too thin, wet blocks, crap mortar that's not fully cured before rendering. Mixture of one or all.

Link Removed This is the Rendit gear I was on about. Decent stuff.

Yep. Less gritty look to it n all, I much prefer it. Don't know why FT exists now imo. Both the K1 and K1 Silicone are much better to use.

Weathershield is categorically not specced to go on monocouche renders. The reps advise against it. Already looked into it with a jobsworth site manager when I offered it on a job where he'd left drainpipes off. Sandtex offer a spec but it's 3-4 coats with a day in between. Sod that. The...

Micro, R10 or Rend aid. All good stuff.

Who's neck is on the line if it goes tits up?

I'd check with K Rend, last I heard their spec for Monocouche onto render board is no longer valid other than small areas such as Dorma cheeks. The only spec they have is for TC15 for general application. I can understand why, timber frames can be a swine if they move.

9mm I think, haven't seen anything thinner.

Whilst I'm on a roll.. Mr Blobby Land, had a hand in that n all. Rendering mushrooms n stuff. Not say too much about that. https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-1220390/Pictured-The-abandoned-ruins-Mr-Blobby-theme-park-ravers-trash-site.html Its in a bit of a state now... Very early spray...

Ha ha, you're going to have me taking pictures of the telly, our lass will think I'm nuts!

Need to wait for Eastenders to come on the telly! It was nearly 30 years ago! The walls are next to the kids playground on the square. I should say I helped do it I was still learning back them..

Webers brick render is garbage. Rather nail me nuts to the table than mix that gunk up. My claim to fame, there's brick render on Eastenders, I did it. I get to see it every night. Still looks good. Decramace, there's a name from the past.

What render?

I know guys who do it either way, just do what you find best.

Sorry, I forgot it was the 1960s...

Pro-tip, if you're banging cheap 30 quid bucket renders on a wall expect it to look gash the first time it rains. The newer silicone bucket renders from all the manufacturers I've used perform much better. Did a TC job a couple of years back that still looks sharp today.

I know loads that won't use a machine, they reckon it slows em down!

I'm down to about 30 limit.

In the early days, before pumps became a thing you could bang on in one hit as the gear tended to be denser. The light fluffy spray stuff of today won't stand it.

Other than 7nm block then yes some sort of primer of base coat is specced by all manufacturers.

No mate, I do rate K Rend these days though, they have had their problems in the past granted. I work for a large contractor and do my own stuff as well. I get involved with job specification quite a bit and oversee a few gangs. Handy, I get to play with everything, I don't think there's a...

Erm, every render manufacturer has base coats in their range lots are heavily specced too. That incident taught me to stick to specs and not take risks over stuff like temps and weather. Something that severe would put most of us out of business and could have killed someone. If you two pass...

Correctly stuck render does stick yes, it's not those you worry about... I got called to a school once. A 20m2 sheet of mono had fell off the wall. Literally just peeled off the base coat. The wall it was on was directly above the main entrance. Think about that half a tonne of render...

Maybe later!

Delamination is the big one. Also retaining its structural integrity.

I don't mind the odd handjob, I can splat loads over a wall in the time it takes to get the machine out the van!

What are you using? If you are trying to rule FT you are doing it wrong. Its heavy and you trowel it up, it's old school. It's been around long before Parex or even Weber were on the market. I've got guys if you give em a trowel, bucket and a mixer will bang 100 bags on in a day easy, not a...

Is it still 2013 where you live? >,< Time moves on, things change. To be fair, the more spec changers there are, trying to change peoples made up minds, the better for me!

TBH, you are doing your friend a dis-service not giving him what he wants. If you don't like FT offer him the K1, both the Silicone or standard handle lovely its top notch stuff. Do a good job to spec, get a rep out to have a quick look and get him a written 30 year guarantee n all. Try doing...

If there's no expansion joint in the background then there's no point in putting onein unless you absolutely need something to work to and in that case put it wherever you want.

I've heard it goes through great, not tried it. It goes through the G4 spot on. We run clamps on all the G4, makes it not break a sweat with owt and the rotor lasts longer.

Slightly finer, can't tell unless side by side. Where I get mine from the Silicone is same price as FT. K1 without silicone slightly cheaper.

Yep, apply to spec and the rep will nip round and write a warranty. We do everything to spec so no biggie. The customer will pay more usually for it. Offering a crack guarantee on top now, it all helps. Ay, done a good few thousand bags of it this past year not a problem. The Silicone handles...

Anyone who's used K1 in the last 12 months should tell you its very nice to apply. The new Silicone K1 is also very good. I'd almost put it up there with Parex to lay, almost. The punters like it cos its easy to get warranted 30 year specs if you ring the rep. Crackings not an issue for me...

Take a look at Rendit (@RenditLtd): https://twitter.com/RenditLtd?s=09 Found the video I was on about on Twitter. It's better for the end result if the render needs a little bit of effort to rub up.

Sticking is a big no no. It clumps on the teeth and causes the grooves. Dry and raspy you want. It'll look better and has more chance of matching your samples that you show your customer.

Renders too soft, when its the right hardness it's difficult to do that no matter what you do. The scratch should feel dry and raspy with fine dry grit coming away, and you'll definitely need mask and eye protection. For most I see scratching they would say it's almost too hard and their arm...

Is it the hp12? If so yes, pin if painted.

My only tip is build a test wall somewhere and any gear you ain't sure about buy (or scrounge bust bags!) a few bags and fire em through the machine. At least you turn up on site with half a clue!

Bingo, a nicely done K Rend job with the sparkles and slightly more open texture is appealing to customers when pointed out. I get about 0.8m2 a bag at finished 15mm Parex is a pain in the ass to get a warranty on smaller jobs, even then only 10 years. Nice and fluffy to apply obviously full of...

G4 mostly.

Whatever the punters ask for. The spec changer tends to be the last pick and the only way to win jobs is be the cheapest. No thanks. I carry around samples for them all and ain't afraid to show them when asked either.

What's reading got to do with anything?

Some think that things today are exactly the same as they were years ago too. To be fair I don't think any of the big uns make a bad product anymore.

K Rend FT or K1 straight onto medium density 7nm block is perfectly fine and there's a spec for it as I have it on my PC. There's been a bba approved spec for ft straight onto block for longer than most of the others have even existed. They all recommend optional priming which makes sense given...

You'd be surprised what I'd been involved in over the years, but no, recreating the 1960s council estate look, not really had much call for it. Bespoke Stone, Brick, and Amusement Park displays over Europe were my speciality back in the day.