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Getting it to match will not only need the same wetness but the wear on the tyroleaning machine, so down to a bit of experimentation. Minster insulation round here stocks Cullamix or try Johnstones one coat render thats a good alternative. also consider it is painted that has took the...

The chippies have done it the way it used to be done 15+ years ago. It can work with the right mix and practice which it sounds like your plasterer hasnt got but even then you will have a brittle render on a flexible substrate so cracking might be an issue. The felt will probably be the modern...

There are some Council houses near me and when it rains heavy you can see the blocks showing through. No idea how thick but they was hand applied about 12 years ago. They was originally Webers white but now grey.

Do you know what thickness the render is? You may find a horizontal Stop bead That will be either 10 or 15mm.

There are several causes on one coat render. Different blocks, wet blocks, different suction in the substrate will give different setting times at the time of scratching back giving different texture giving different shades. Was it raining shortly after finishing? Could be salts coming out...

or an extension on top of a garage? Fit brick stitch bars into it zig zag and double mesh with a thin coat system.

Yes leave it 6 weeks but do not use that clear stuff it’s water repellent but it doesn’t know the difference between wet water and wet paint, it will repel both.

You have left it to cure so it will be fine. Are you going to paint it? Jub make a siliconed paint that has some stretch in it or better still apply an acrylic or silicone render finish 1.5mm. Plenty of stretch there.

It’s all down to timing. Spray the first coat and if it stiffens up enough then spray the second. I scratch the first pass if it going to be left to set.

X32 is sticky on its own but you could use Eco rends liquid primer instead of rendaid. I have used their primer to stabilise a wall of different brick, block and concrete for even suction then x32.

Thats shrinkage cracks. Either too much suction or the heat. Tap it and if it isn’t hollowthen let it fully cure for at least 14 days preferably a month then carry on. I have seen worse. Strange why he would use mesh on brick. If it was smooth faced or painted then yes but a bit out of date...

under the metal meshing was it brick or block with suction or did he treat it with anything? Are the cracks small and more horizontal than vertical?

If it appears to be solid then crack on. The cold will be ok, safer than too hot and the damp air will help curing. even painting will be ok, just needs a few hours to dry so pick a couple of dry days..

Bit unusual that ts, scaffolders price for erection and dismantle over a set or agreed time then in my case 5% of the price per week on hire. This covers the hire of Capital assets and a profit otherwise in time of boom the scaffolding company would have to hire in steel as their assets is tied up.

Find an Atlas Avail merchant, they have probably had a training day and may know of someone.

Thats a dosser.

The Doser? Yes.

The doser is good and it will give you peace of mind. My Ritmo and water pump needed expensive repairs after using Wickes and not flushing out. But I did continue using accelerator mainly an Irish one what didn’t ha the Chloride free additive in. I took the pipe off the mixing chamber, wacked...

Stone effect.

I was taught how to do this in college but with raised pointing. a scratch coat was applied then the joints was marked out with chalk, then a thin band of render applied over the chalk lines and cut using a stick the width of the pointing and let set. Then mix up a sand, cement and lime mix and...

Used it about 10 years ago, nice gear. It was on sm700. Gibbo has used loads.

The heat has killed it but it could have been avoided in a way. cover the wall up the night before to keep it in the cool, hot blocks just make the water in the mix evaporate. Avoid working in the sun but if you have to like you did then uncover as you go and re cover immediately. Not ideal...

Rendagrip.

Masking up time, beading time, applying base coat time then mono which depending on who‘s could be a day, long day or an overnighter. Small areas or something worth going at? How much labour only are you? You and a bag of tools with someone supplying the equipment or a transit full of equipment...

If its 3.5 newton blocks you might be ok but if 7 Newton then there is no need. I would prime with 3 water 1 sbr then when dry either 1:1 sbr and water but better still neat sbr and cement into a brushable slurry. For for ease then consider Everbuild Rendagrip. I prefer rendagrip, apply once...

Jub is my favourite, just the right amount of aggregate and silicone mix. Their winter grade is good.

I use Jub if the customer will pay, its my favourite.

You need hands on experienc, no short course can teach you that. How long did it take you to master skimming? No day is the same, for example skimming on a cold damp day in a new build is different if that same wall was in a heated house. Rendering is the same. Ruling off the modern renders...

Well I never..... I would have wrote cementous as well but it comes up as spelt wrong. Cementitious actually is a word!

Rendagrip it.

I have done lots of bays over the years and no problems. Put breathable roofing felt on tight then expanded metal lathing or riblath as tight as you can. Perimeter beads as well. If you want bed some 8-10 mesh into your scratch coat or fibres for a belt and braces job. I doubt on boarding this...

I have done it in the past with good success. Put waterproofer in your coats but not in your final top coat so you have some suction and hopefully even suction. Scratch wavy and not too deep to avoid sag lines Top off with 10mm peak.m or more.

I have used it once in mono but it wasn’t that good as an accelerator. Wickes worked well but I bought Larsens in bulk. Cheaper than Wickes without the chloride free additive.

Putting obvious freezing weather aside its what if it turns parky overnight we should be considering. Well I have used Wickes and Feb Wintamix with good success. I have had two that did get caught and froze solid but are still there today. When I say solid is was white over with frost but under...

depends how dirty, and also any organic growth so sometimes consider algicide and pressure wash but polluted mortar more likely than pebble.

No not always but its me, I would be thinking of the inground dirt so something sticky for reassurance.

If you are satisfied that your existing rendering is on sound and is clean then there are options. Talking in Weber product talk then a coat of their rend-aid2 then their OCR will give you a flat render. You could give it a coat of Parex (manufacturer) Microgobetis then their GPR. There are...

The sides will be solid but the front will be little more than piers so subject to a weakness when the door shuts. If it is a porch then why not consider rendering the front with an o.c.r render (plain cement render) done with the right base and mesh and then skim over the sides with a thin...

Get the bagged render but to answer your question it is x ml per X neat cement .

The op doesn’t state new build or refurbishment? New build with 7.5n blocks and one coat render then stress patches on opening corners will suffice or even good hard crack free bricks but usually it is common practice on refurb work to fully mesh.

I will see how to customer wants to go ahead with this, she will be reading these replies if she can. Thanks for the info everyone.

Thanks for this information. Its a job Paul Clamp (remember him?) has passed my way. The job is in Harrogate so 60 mile plus away from me and I am working out of a Mini Countryman boot atm hence labour only. I am passing Harrogate on my way to a job in Scotland so maybe tape on the way there...

What is Wezly?

This particular customer mentioned joint taping but this is new to me. Thanks for the pm Tom81 but I cannot download the attachment so I will google if.

I have been asked to price this aquapanel-ed ceiling. I have done thin coat on hardibacker before but always small area’s not involving joints and usually the bigger panels. I seem to remember run with Scissors giving a spec for aquapanel, something to do siliconing the joints? This job is...

Unless he has seen that open hopper that does fire it on, Refina make a version of it. But you need one of those towable compressors the road diggers use to use it with. The compressor will cost more than a machine.

I have used it, it is good gear.

Probably will be darker on the bottom. I have rubbed K Rend dash receiver ok.

I have got it spatted back smooth and I think it will rub up ok being limey.

I have used flakes in a heat wave and done for 4 but I did one in June sprayed on for 5 and it was a soft set hard next morning but manageable as Fassa is a soft set. Can be a long day with accelerator I prefer overnighter.