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Should have delivered them and settled up cost or cornice. That way if they get damaged or job never comes off you haven't lost out, or in this case thrown them away. Cost of a phone call prior to disposal to check if still needed otherwise there binned. At least you wouldn't have to make them...

When you get into all the technical crap to do with screeds they say that the liquid ones are more efficient for underfloor heating. With less air pockets in than a traditional screed and able to go down thinner the heat transfers into the room quicker. The laitance as you said is cleaned off...

Penny hydraulics I think that's the name. They do small hiab type cranes that can lift the weights and distances your looking at. Thinking they only weight about 250kgs so still get decent payload.

Hi all, looking for competent plasterer who works in Portsmouth area. Work is on my brothers house but out of area for us. Job is re skimming to kitchen ceiling and making good to blocked up doorways and general patching. Someone will be at the house this weekend so would be great if anyone...

Hi if you send me an email with your info, like where abouts you are and when you'd want the work doing. Might be able to come out and give you a price. Thanks. [email protected]

Leave them in vinegar overnight. Plaster should just fall off. Bit smelly but they look good as new.

Hi, yes the best thing to replace the render with would be lime. It will help the walls to breath and once dried out all your damp problems should disappear as you have said there are no other signs of it, ie leaking gutters. You are better off with replacing it all with Lime to be honest. In a...

Why would you lime wash it to re skim it? If your gunna use a gypsum plaster why even look at the lime side of things? Either do lime plaster again or do gypsum. The problem is the silk paint by sounds of it rather than the lime plaster. It's just doing want it's ment to, breathing and allowing...

It could be a thing called Fibre Lime. Is more designed for filling chases but you can use it on bigger areas but it does cost a bit. Is effectively like a one coat as you can skim with it but go up to 20mm maybe 30mm if memory serves me. Sounds like the wall wasn't dampened down enough so...

The new block work had probably cracked as there is no eml in the bed joints. It's not a building reg so rarely people do it. But I always put it in as it's manufacturer recommended. And tbh that's why dry lining was invented, to hide all the cracks so that they don't come through the walls...

Don't want anything to do with unions. Some sites won't let union guys on cos unions cause more hassle than there worth.

I'm looking into machines for pumping site mixed Lime atm too. The amount of water added does seem To be an issue. Do you only hand apply currently? Are you looking at the diesel machines due to the quantity your doing or could you use an electric machine?

It won't be the rend aid that's the problem. That crap building sand! You can get plastering sand for a reason, a better blend which will massively reduce risk of cracks.

They should be consistant at 900grams per cube. The length is irrelevant due to the shear number off fibres per cube being greater now that they are shorter.

Yeah great for skim, hence it's name. But when you talk to them and read all the blurb on there website they say you can use it for almost anything. It works well but that slot clogs up in seconds and needs washing every day. Well it does on lime anyway.

I find on floating the speedskim gets warped very quickly. Might be better with a spat for longer wearability.

Got your email. I'll contact them in morning. Thanks.

Was it the Ian @ jonesplastering one? Jake, did put my forum name in it too.

Welcome along!

Your better off taking all the render off at least that way the wall is able to breath and with the wind, naturally dry out. As and when you have the money to re-render you can. The hollow render is allowing the water in and then trapping it against the wall forcing it back inside. Once it is...

Hopefully sent to the right email address.

The first thing is curing the damp problem. You don't want to just cover it up and the damp still be there. They'll be calling you back saying it's falling off even though you have already told them it needs removing. As was said you don't want SBR as it will stop the wall breathing but there...

What grain size does the Ritmo L cope with? Does your guy set up any differently to spraying S and C. Looking into machine for Lime but issues with separation of material. Do you know where he gets his Lime from?

Use vinegar on plaster. Just get cheap stuff and put it in plasterers bath and leave speed skim over night. Should be clean and slide out an treat.

Ok thanks, PVA it is then.

Got some old polystyrene tiles to strip off ceiling and then needs a re skim. If there's any of the old adhesive still on the ceiling: Is it better to use Pva, 1 coat dry/1 coat tacky and skim. Or use one of the new grit based pre bond stuff? Or does it not matter? Thanks in advance.

Yeah I use there stuff quite a lot. Get ours in 25kg bags but that just cos it's easier to handle. Waste a lot of time digging it out the dumpy bags I find.

If the guy is adamant that you have to use Lime then use Lime. Obviously they will be an increase in the price for labour and materials but that is to be expected. Where you get the lime from just ask for a paint card of some breathable paints. At least you have tried to make your work...

I remember reading Lime Hemp at beginning of thread now you said it. Are you mixing yourself or getting pre bagged? Yeah the hemp does hand a while. You can use a dehumidifier gently in the middle of the room to help with the moisture levels if you need. Don't want it staying too damp otherwise...

Looking good. What you using on that one? NHL or Putty?

Where are you based? If it's the whole house Lime doesn't actually work out that much more expensive. The main thing is making sure that you eliminate any causes of the damp. If it appears to just be cracked render then hack off and use Lime. This will the allow the walls to breath. Putting Sand...

Yes just take end cap off and slide new one in. If the old is stuck then soak in water or pour warm water from kettle down the groove to help loosen it. Then little spray of wd40 and slide the new one in.

Blue ones are exactly the same as grey ones in what they do to the wall. Just a change in appearance. They have fewer ribs on them for easier cleaning, in theory. The plastic is also ment to be more resilient to knocks an bumps in the van.

The problem people are having is you still call yourself a plasterer yet your not. You self admitted you only skim and do the easy jobs. Those time served spreads and experienced plasterers who have done apprenticeships are still called plasterers. Joe blogs doesn't know the difference but will...

That's true but the bigger bills that's a fair chunk the card people are taking. If there willing to pay the 2.75% fee then that's profit on every job if they just do bank transfer and pay you same at no cost to you.

Distemper is a bitch. If you know it's there you can wash it off I think prior to skimming but got caught out once. Skimmed ceiling and within weeks was starting to lose bond. Had to overboard and skim. Only choice really. Better to be safe than sorry.

Do Conserve do bulk deals? Prices on there website seem pretty high to me.

No where near me sells it that I know of.

1200 for a chimney tower. How high was the flipping chimney?!

If your lucky some guys don't at all providing you don't take the piss. If not normally it's done on a percentage. Almost like a fine. As you have already paid to have it taken down. Tbh your better off getting it for as long as you can then you know you won't overrun.

As long as it comes out clean and shiny the other end he can eat it!

But that doesn't actually solve the problem. It's been Going on for a long time, not just a dodgy batch you can worm your way out of. Why don't you go down the plastic route like all the other manufacturers? You hold the biggest card in the market but are too bone idle to do something about it...

With NHL it could be a day or so before you can render it. But it will carry on setting in the background even if not fully cured. The NHL gives it a hydraulic set so will cure even under water.

Where do you get that stuff from?

Will Brick Acid clean old plaster and tile adhesive from kit. If not any ideas on what else can use? Cheers

If your in Wales have you been in contact with Ty Mawr Lime? Very helpful company that offer the 1/2 day courses but may be able to point you in the direction of what your after.

Hi, tbh most of the course that are out there, like the 1/2 days are ment for compete newbs. Mainly enthusiastic DIYers or if you want to gain some knowledge and tips about using Lime. Most Lime knowledge is still passed on through firms and there apprentices. If you've never used Lime id...

Could stick on with the new board foam you get. Only like 5mm beads on the back. Should stick no problem. You could use the plasterboard drive in nail fixings that just hammer into the wall. Can't remember the name of them tho.

Welcome along! Tbh any good plasterer would be able to do it. The biggest thing you need make sure you are aware of is that Lime takes longer to cure and needs some more looking after. If you are happy to you can work with your plasterer so that when they leave the job you can keep the lime damp...

Yeah 1:2 is fine. I wouldn't go much stronger than that but it all depends on the sand tbh.