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Counter battening is a very good job if you can do , bonding though can most. Sent from my HUAWEI G6-L11 using Tapatalk

This time of year a small bit of lime in the scratch coat can speed things up a bit also, but like mentioned above ,March only a few weeks away. Sent from my HUAWEI G6-L11 using Tapatalk

As long as sand is covered and frost free and no ice on scratch /block work away. Cement and skim going off is a chemical reaction one of the characteristics of all chemical reactions is they create heat. Below freezing is a different matter as the water in the mix freeze before the chemical...

Didnt use them in my own place either and haven't budged, they've really taken of here though. builders love'em , again takes twice the time so twice the price. Have ten bags of bonding in the shed at home that builders think have straightened their ceilings, have a bonfire twice a week to avoid...

Dragging those 100mm iwi boards around the job is no joke K, then put maybe 500 fixings in a hse. I just do the reveals and charge like S&C all walls. Sent from my HUAWEI G6-L11 using Tapatalk

I haven't dabed one in years, all the builders round here fix themselves, I just quote bond and skim same on ceilings. Sent from my HUAWEI G6-L11 using Tapatalk

The fire regs do not allow dabing alone. You've got to fix, infact over here you need to use metal or carbon fibre (passive hse) as plastic will melt and again collapse, also you are relying on the adhesive holding board and insulation together to keep your wall intact. Plastering cannot to...

Sorry K, my post wasn't directed towards you man, more towards OP and other posts. Sent from my HUAWEI G6-L11 using Tapatalk

The amount of moisture in the atmosphere should not really make any difference to setting time, skimming will set in the bottom of a bucket of water same time as on wall. Drying and setting not the same thing. Sent from my HUAWEI G6-L11 using Tapatalk

You could, but would consider dabing out with some kind of moisture a better job. As already mentioned above. Sent from my HUAWEI G6-L11 using Tapatalk

He's right , cold bridging , with insulated board you need to mushroom , the passive house fixings are very good though pricey. Sent from my HUAWEI G6-L11 using Tapatalk

Why, would ya do that? Sent from my HUAWEI G6-L11 using Tapatalk

Was all set to do a flood damage insurance job but client got flooded again last week, got a nice bit external waiting for spark on a new build. Yourself? Sent from my HUAWEI G6-L11 using Tapatalk

Am from Mayo but living between Midleton and Youghal. You? Sent from my HUAWEI G6-L11 using Tapatalk

We do chimneys, dormers, anex gables and scud. Usually draw a grand, see how the client is for bobs. Sent from my HUAWEI G6-L11 using Tapatalk

If you didn't scud it man you'd be off site next morning, garunteed. Sent from my HUAWEI G6-L11 using Tapatalk

Two sheets of marine ply. Sent from my HUAWEI G6-L11 using Tapatalk

Great sand in Mayo though, down here in Cork sand is shite without paying 600 quid for a load, scudd is an absolute must down here, about 3:1. Sent from my HUAWEI G6-L11 using Tapatalk

Am typing this from Co Cork, and if I scudded a house at five to one would not expect it to be still there five years on, I would be amazed if they were doing so, have been on a trowell since fifteen and will be 48 next year. Sent from my HUAWEI G6-L11 using Tapatalk

Scud/slurry 5:1. You sure? Sent from my HUAWEI G6-L11 using Tapatalk

Yeah that would be about same as I use, I meant about a Cork per shovel of cement. On the container the ratio is given per unit of water , this I find does not work. Have used without in past but throwing on big gables solo soon changed my mind, Sent from my HUAWEI G6-L11 using Tapatalk

Why would it dry quicker? Waterproof is added pro rata with cement, the stronger the gear the more waterproof it will handle, I apply it directly to the mix roughly a Cork full for every shovel mix of finnish more in scratch. Depends on brands also. Sent from my HUAWEI G6-L11 using Tapatalk

4sand/1cement/1lime Internal corners= where two walls meet normally at 90° Sent from my HUAWEI G6-L11 using Tapatalk

I see on other thread you are sticking beads also. How I would go about it would be , scud first, 2/1 no aditives on wet wall, scratch 3/1 + WP day or so latter again on wet wall, and then just sit my beads upon the scratch coat, on piers make sure plumb in both planes. Following day finnish...

Have had a trowell in my hand for best part of thirty years. and have never needed to do this, over here I break them in on S&C and use two skimming trowells, when I lived in London my mate was a floor screeder, he'd have one lovely in ten days. I know guys who have used the flapper disk to good...

He can remove the bumps etc. with nice new bolster, PVA and reskim, the doorframes are not a big deal as chippie can always scribe architraves. Subbies should have made good though probably very easy sorted before walls dry out. Sent from my HUAWEI G6-L11 using Tapatalk

Very good tradesmen are normally poor delegaters, in order to make really big money you need to be able to do this, which is why few really good plasterers become millionaires, I know quite a few middling ones who have done real well though. Sent from my HUAWEI G6-L11 using Tapatalk

Have done that a few times also , we call these chanfered bands, look nice as well especially on a dashed house, a few I know throw up patent reveal and just put a band round and over it , tends to leave a smooth edge where they join though. Sent from my HUAWEI G6-L11 using Tapatalk

The stop bead method is usually only seen on a retrofit, though I would much rather live with a few nail holes as unless wall absolutely 100% either the stop has to be beded and straightened or angle bead needs adjusting to suit , very easy to pull the lath out on nail and then set the angle to...

4inch bands we call them, but usually flush with outside of window cill, presuming window is centred in cill, 2x1outside two coat bead on return or hold rules old style, would want paying well to go freehand. Oh....bands first pannel last is the norm. Sent from my HUAWEI G6-L11 using Tapatalk

Yeah far as I know six grand ceiling. Sent from my HUAWEI G6-L11 using Tapatalk

The insurance companies I have sent quotations to directly will only cover like for like compensation. Sent from my HUAWEI G6-L11 using Tapatalk

Two coats of S&C comes up lovely internal, in flood prone builds keep sockets up three feet and a good quality external paint, try fibre glass apron with cement board + 2coat S&C on ground floor partitions, only issue I see is that insurers will pay to replace but not to upgrade, in present...

Bet there are a lot of homeowners with 18inches of floodwater in ground floor wish they didn't have dot and dab, two coat C&S internal about to come back in a big way I reckon, could be a good thread in it actually." Sent from my HUAWEI G6-L11 using Tapatalk

Have almost skimed entire ground floor of my mates 4bed semi over last four years. He has three sub ten youngsters and a busy home life. My in laws , two professionals no kids bought at same time also T&J no problems, If you go with finished taping don't have kids. Sent from my HUAWEI G6-L11...

Yeah that's a fine SbS, I also learned this on block release circa 1986ish, made good money twenty years later on a big heritage site in Hereford using a similar technique. Sent from my HUAWEI G6-L11 using Tapatalk

Like KK says plenty of critical lighting early in the gauge will prevent the misses that eventually fill with fat giving the marks you mention. Alternating trowells at 90deg is a method many use to good effect, I would put on with cross trowell, flatten up and down, lay down with cross and first...

Can't remember , as I said twenty years ago. Think originally used finish taping maybe. Sent from my HUAWEI G6-L11 using Tapatalk

Yeah, but I leave my mixer mixing all day long , filling after each mix, not too much waterproofer, perfect when get back. My main mixer holds six barrows ,I usually fill twice a day when solo. Sent from my HUAWEI G6-L11 using Tapatalk

The mop thing has been around since early nineties, They used to cross big ceilings with them, felt it saved a trowell. Sent from my HUAWEI G6-L11 using Tapatalk

Used much stateside , called a mop, quite different to a sponge, you'll have big arms after it, don't rate to be honest Sent from my HUAWEI G6-L11 using Tapatalk

Have never floated a scratch coat myself though nowadays find a good ruling with a nice piece of 2x1.5 makes things easier for the next day. Sent from my HUAWEI G6-L11 using Tapatalk

I see it as one of the main draw backs of these types of scratched back textures, normally with SnC you'd lath, float and 2nd float to get panel flat, its the floating circular action that flatens and fills. With the modern renders we float to get consistent texture with flatness secondary...

Thank What's wrong with a little electric mixer for sand and cement, probably cost less than a good drill and half the work,,,,,,,,,,,,or am I missing something. Sent from my HUAWEI G6-L11 using Tapatalk

Surely you mean 'it's' as opposed to 'its'. Sent from my HUAWEI G6-L11 using Tapatalk

You need to be clear on the difference between setting and drying, high suction backgrounds can result in blisters as can overworking the wall before it is ready, good timing the cure. Sent from my HUAWEI G6-L11 using Tapatalk

Check that all the paper is secure on the slab, if not correct before you start, this kind of slab damage is common on bends and a bitch to fix mid set particularly on a round/curve etc. Sent from my HUAWEI G6-L11 using Tapatalk

Often while trowelling up a big ceiling, I find my self humming the tune to 'sometime' and wonder if Andy wasn't such a wonderful dancer would the lads be recognized as the rock gods the undoubtedly are. Sent from my HUAWEI G6-L11 using Tapatalk

I don't devil float myself, other thsn S&C ,I never leave bonding longer than overnight and rarely close in other than heavy lines. A float though through the action of floating will always make a panel/wall flatter than a trowell, this is the reason the sponge float works so well on heavy...

In Ireland at the moment a proper-not a skimer dober- plasterer with transport tools etc, 200euro before tax . Sent from my HUAWEI G6-L11 using Tapatalk