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Jub and Sto do a nano silicone. But self cleaning? It works when water (rain) runs down collecting the dirt but what about under eaves, soffit boards, sills and the East side what keeps dry? It will probably physically clean easier with soapy water and brush.

I find a lot of the lads with spray guns are small outfits that cannot cope with big areas finished by hand. Dave who Mr White quoted has it bang on but he has invested a lot in equipment and uses a quality silicone. I do wonder though with the render needing to be absolutely flat and perfect...

Yes doing fine thanks.

I did 20mm once and that was hard enough. I used a 6:1:1 mix and the sand was 4 parts sharp 2 parts soft as it needed to be fatty. Used Febmix too. It sounds bizarre but as said above you might need to hand apply each stone. i have seen cottages in Norfolk with what looks like 60mm pebbles...

As John J said above take a note of where the sun is at a particular time. Not always possible on a cloudy day but I always established what was west as thats the wettest side so that usually got done first. If the phone rings you can calculate what time of day not to go back.

Outside? Use stainless.

It will probably fail as there is no dpc, no dpm or adequate copings. The latest fashion of flat tops with no copings is a complete waste of time. At least fit adequate copings with a built in drip and the coping stuck down with sbr slurry, a tanking of some sort or dpm and stop short at least...

You will need at least 40mm insulation to be of any benefit and as to window sills and eaves etc there are retrofit trims available to accommodate. An ewi installer will have examples of work or photos he can show you. There are some youtube vids if you search, Sto do a few. As to going over...

Depends on the condition of your bricks but yes it will probably be ok if the base coat is allowed to fully set and cure.

Are you getting a manufacturers warranty? Ring them and get the technical rep out. Dave France up here in North of England. They will condemn that work.

As above, Rendit do mendrend.

You mean a 19mm drip bead? Freehand it. You can get 10 & 15mm drip beads and finish flush with the bead edge but still got a drip just no bellcast.

These often fail and it is not down to the renderer. Everything about these walls are wrong in the way they are built. Usually no tanking from behind, inadequate coping stones including a lack off a dpm under them and built in drips , no dpc and nearly always never a minimum of 150mm above...

I used to spray at speed 10 So half speed (5) and half your water. Bear in mind your machine wont add water under speed 5.

Same as Wack. Deal with them direct at Leicester, next day delivery.

I had the Ritmo set up for spraying but carrying all that equipment around and setting up was a ball ache. Early mornings to get it out of storage and then put it back. But the finish was good and speed 0.5 was fast enough on th L. For the weight of the hose you could get a 19mm hose or a...

Stuart Kilner in Essex. PFT Southern. Great piece of kit but you need a high quality silicone not cheap gritty stuff and know how much to water it down.

Pin whilst it is wet, the vibration when set will be no good.

What I found out here in Sheffield is that the latest available appontment dates gets realised after Midnight and once they are taken up Sheffield is not offered. I didn’t know and booked in the evening. Huddersfield 20 miles away was the nearest, two days later my sis in law looked online at...

The pharmacist who gave me the shot said it can take 3 weeks for immunity to work.

Can do both. If the dashing is sound and clean then go over but you may have to take the reveals off to keep some window frame exposed. Also consider do you have enough widow sill.

I had the Astra Zenica jab on Saturday and within minutes my heart rate shot up and stayed like that for the evening. Next day I felt like I was getting over the flue and both upper arms felt like I had been bare knuckle punched hard. Not felt that ill since I had flu in my mid 20’s. Today...

Wow! How are you now? Have you changed your lifestyle at all?

Weber and K-rend is ok but Jub is excellent imo. I find with silicone the cheaper it is but grittier it is. There are two ways to rub up silicone and the rub up with a painters 75mm scaper (or similar) in your left hand to scrape your fat onto gives the best results. Just rubbing up without...

As above but if it is thick then either wet down well and don’t trowel it on but chuck it on with the back of your trowel or I would use a small coal shovel. chuck on what you can and leave to set. If it is still thick chuck more on, being thrown on will make it adhere,bit its when you trowel...

Nothing in the plain flat render is going to work over time. You needed a damp proof course and either tanking being or a membrane, some sort of dpc under the copings and adequate copings with a drip. Paint will constantly fail and salts will ruin monocouche. Its old fashion and dated but a...

As above your gear is too stiff and you have left it to long before ruling. I made it on the wet side and ruled as soon as possible. Far easier to move fluid render around.

Fil is mega busy and has took too much on. You are best ringing.

Baumit is good and fil gil on FB is your man. I personally rate Jub but it is expensive. I find the cheaper ones like Atlas Avail are very gritty and hard to get a good finish. where about‘s are you? Mapai is good and P1ss sells it.

All a bit before my time but I do remember seeing the formed hard angles when I was doing refurbishment on 1930’s Council house in the 70’s. I did use keenes once in 1977, on my local nicks cell ceiling, it was finished with a cross grain float which I still have.

All new to me this muti tool and router? Can anyone send me a link? Used for cutting out sockets?

Thank you Cockney, the guy that advised said 50/50 but then did correct himself and said maybe a bit less bonding. It was heavy swirl though. I did have a wall to skim but the new door frame meant a 6mm skim so I did a 25/75 bonding and multi on the first thick pass then multi second and that...

11” & 13” Ox Stainless for me and less wrist work, more use of speedskims and spats. On render slap it on and let the 1m rule flatten it.

I am 63 and sort of jacked in at 61 to care for my wife. When she passed away during lockdown, I bought a bike and got out, loved it but missed the lads and the work but I certainly didn’t miss being in business! I drifted back into it and ended up working with a great set of lads doing...

From what I saw on the L&D video, it sprays uneven and you need someone spatting it flat as it is going on. Also sprays where you don't want it to like ceiling angles. You can get a fair bit on but then a spat man and being plaster once you start you cant stop. Once its all on you will have to...

It is that last troweling what takes pressure so it may be of benefit to me, thanks.

I got out of plastering back in 89 and has rendered ever since but recently had a semi to re-skim. My trowels are a 11” & 13” Ox stainless. I had a lad give me a hand for a day and he troweled up with a flexi trowel stainless, he reckons it takes out the effort out of troweling up, is he right...

Owls ha got it right. Sand and cement? Your old pebble dash is sand and cement with pebbles chucked into it whilst wet and it lasts decades but is out of fashion. As for Weber or K Rend they are just manufactures and are most.y good although K Rend Monocouche has a bad reputation but the rest...

That crack needs stitching. Being new build it might come off if the blocks are 7.5 newton but going over paint? In can be done but get a manufacturer spec. Consider contacting Weber they do a product called Santane or they did 10 years ago, that is good for its flexibility.

Sounds like a dash receiver which is a coloured render then you dry dash it. Nothing wrong with that. I have done loads of dash receiver the majority being white dash receiver with white marble dry dash. Painting it makes it all one even colour and bland imo. Roughcast is done by machine and...

Is this a lime render? If it is its been rushed. A silicone paint will probably be a cure but then maybe only temporary and the Council may not allow a synthetic coating if they insisted on a lime render. investigate those copings for drips and damp proof membrane then if you do it again get a...

Have another look after a heavy rain and look for damp patches. i noticed the same problem earlier this week on a neighbouring property. The coping looked substantial but 4 dipped slightly causing the monocouche to crumble on the surface.

BuildLite in Rotherham will make them..

The top looks like its been ruled with a serrated edge? The bottom is self made to a artex kind of finish and unique to whoever did it. I would imagine a fatty mix and some kind of self made tool coved in a plastic bag.

One is a paint technology so will sheen the other is mineral so is matt and will darken in damp air, lighten in dry sunny time of year plus different texture. Even mono done side by side but one scratched back hard and dry the other same day but green will be two different colours.

Both A and B is wrong, ideally you need to maintain the full thickness out to the bell edge. ‘B’ will taper out to 0 thickness. Chop the existing bell off and fit a drip bead to suit the thickness of the render angle beads. If you want a bell bottom fit thicker thickness bell beads obtainable...

Is it Johnstones by any chance?

Quite right but I didn’t look at the photo close up, more on what I read. Yes on painted dash then parinter or Fassa K over. Subject to a pull test of course.

Well done and get your van stickers. Put it on your web site and stationary too.

Johnstones is fine, using it a lot alately. What is the repair? Whats wrong with it? Repair or repoint? Repoint is not needed and all the modern renders on refurb usually have reinforcing mesh embedded. K Rend monocouche has a bad reputation but their other renders are fine.