British Gypsum Launches Thistle Uni-Finish

Status
Not open for further replies.
KevRM said:
Yes Sirrapite A & B on S&C, Board Finish on S&C, multi on S&C & Hardwall, Carlite finish on Browning & Bonding, i've been in the game longer than you've been alive so i geuss that makes me qualified to give my opinion wouldn't you say ??
Click to expand...

So your happy with hardwall and multi then? And it just as good as carlite was?
 
I think this needs to be more of concious choice , of which system meets the requirements of the job in hand. Bearing in mind that in reality you can only skim over SC after 5 days of curing and drying. If I have a small single storey extension with say circa 30m2 F+S to blocks in it. I am mindful of the fact that the builder will want continuity on his project and will be none to happy if I piss of for 4 days while the float coat is drying. In this instance I am going to choose the Gypsum light weight system over SC as the job will be over in a day.That said, I chose SC on a huge barn convrsion with over 500m2 in it. I sprayed the lot with CPI , and then turned round to set it.At the end of the day, these sytems are there for us to choose as we feel fit for the project they are used on.

The trick to setting on a bit of suction is to lay in extremely tidely, then when 3 trowels width in make a quick flattening pass to the first bit. Essentially you are doing your first trowel alongside laying in. If you dont get the finish real good on your first trowel, then your going to struggle full stop.
 
CurrierPlastering said:
So your happy with hardwall and multi then? And it just as good as carlite was?
Click to expand...

to be honest i didnt like Carlite finish browning or bonding, i'd take hardwall and multi over them anyday, infact id rather use hardwall than S&C i'ts lighter therefore does you less damage
 
mark ross said:
I think this needs to be more of concious choice , of which system meets the requirements of the job in hand. Bearing in mind that in reality you can only skim over SC after 5 days of curing and drying. If I have a small single storey extension with say circa 30m2 F+S to blocks in it. I am mindful of the fact that the builder will want continuity on his project and will be none to happy if I piss of for 4 days while the float coat is drying. In this instance I am going to choose the Gypsum light weight system over SC as the job will be over in a day.That said, I chose SC on a huge barn convrsion with over 500m2 in it. I sprayed the lot with CPI , and then turned round to set it.At the end of the day, these sytems are there for us to choose as we feel fit for the project they are used on.

The trick to setting on a bit of suction is to lay in extremely tidely, then when 3 trowels width in make a quick flattening pass to the first bit. Essentially you are doing your first trowel alongside laying in. If you dont get the finish real good on your first trowel, then your going to struggle full stop.
Click to expand...

good post, but as i have said with hardwall float & set the same day you should have NO problems with the setting drying you shouldn't have to flatten in every 3 to 4 trowel widths
 
mark ross said:
I think this needs to be more of concious choice , of which system meets the requirements of the job in hand. Bearing in mind that in reality you can only skim over SC after 5 days of curing and drying. If I have a small single storey extension with say circa 30m2 F+S to blocks in it. I am mindful of the fact that the builder will want continuity on his project and will be none to happy if I piss of for 4 days while the float coat is drying. In this instance I am going to choose the Gypsum light weight system over SC as the job will be over in a day.That said, I chose SC on a huge barn convrsion with over 500m2 in it. I sprayed the lot with CPI , and then turned round to set it.At the end of the day, these sytems are there for us to choose as we feel fit for the project they are used on.

The trick to setting on a bit of suction is to lay in extremely tidely, then when 3 trowels width in make a quick flattening pass to the first bit. Essentially you are doing your first trowel alongside laying in. If you dont get the finish real good on your first trowel, then your going to struggle full stop.
Click to expand...

Correct. All I want is a BG to have a system where we can float for a few days then drop back and set.
 
Skimmed two walls last week that had been floated a week earlier pvaed both of them but could only put one on a time then turn back and finish, floated a wall the next day then skimmed an hour later and it was beatiful so the simple answer is currier if you do it the right way it works.
 
Your right, weather, season ,substrate all have hand in how much suction you have to deal with. My point to Steve was how I would deal with the worst case of suctions. Id even say if your floating on dense concrete, setting same day could be a pain as youll be forever ironing out the F***ing pimples.
 
CurrierPlastering said:
Correct. All I want is a BG to have a system where we can float for a few days then drop back and set.
Click to expand...
I also want BG to make a plaster that will turn up at a job and put itself on, bell me when its finished so i can go and pick my money up, i was hoping they would make a plaster that would go and price jobs for me but maybe thats askin too much.
 
mark ross said:
Your right, weather, season ,substrate all have hand in how much suction you have to deal with. My point to Steve was how I would deal with the worst case of suctions. Id even say if your floating on dense concrete, setting same day could be a pain as youll be forever ironing out the F***ing pimples.
Click to expand...

True but this is where your own knowledge of the materials comes into it, you learn when to trowel and how much pressure to use
 
Steve, why waste your time worrying about what isnt, when in reality you can spray cpi to your hearts content, then drop back a few days later and skim it.
 
Ok just to clear this up, on a high suction background like celcons even with a prime hardwall and multi is ****. I know how to get a good finish im not a ******* re***d, all im saying is its a **** system and i was hoping that uni-finish would be like this magical finish called carlite that my old man always says was far far better the multi in that situation.

Mark CPI is a option, but pricey!

Now Mp75 finished properly is where it is at! However the uk seems to have this oview that its is not smooth enough! So it dont get speced
 
Steve, I had the view that CPI was pricey, but in reality its the cheapest out there. 3.40 a bag ( you can buy in ton bags to make it even cheaper, or a silo if your jobs big enough). But the savings in labour far outway the extras in materials. So your on a winner.
 
This thread just shows that learning how to master suction control is kinda important. I don't like hardwall either cos it's like chewing gum, but it's easy enough to skim with multi in my opinion.

Browning + Carlite was king, but I would say that, as it's what I was brought up on :RpS_thumbup:
 
mark ross said:
Steve, I had the view that CPI was pricey, but in reality its the cheapest out there. 3.40 a bag ( you can buy in ton bags to make it even cheaper, or a silo if your jobs big enough). But the savings in labour far outway the extras in materials. So your on a winner.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info mark.Im have a site of 14 4-5 bed houses at the moment that are all celcons. Even with Knauf High Suction Primer, Hardwall and mutli is a *******! Ive now got them on board to use MP75 and MP Finish as i know we finish them well however if the finish of MP75 is not quite good enough( for the "strokers") maybe CPI is a option. Has anyone used MP Finish on CPI?

Back to my original point it would be much easier if BG had a real world cost effective solution for this situation.
 
CurrierPlastering said:
Thanks for the info mark.Im have a site of 14 4-5 bed houses at the moment that are all celcons. Even with Knauf High Suction Primer, Hardwall and mutli is a *******! Ive now got them on board to use MP75 and MP Finish as i know we finish them well however if the finish of MP75 is not quite good enough( for the "strokers") maybe CPI is a option. Has anyone used MP Finish on CPI?

Back to my original point it would be much easier if BG had a real world cost effective solution for this situation.
Click to expand...

Could you not talk them into s&c sure thats cheaper or did you forget about the older stuff that wont go through your machine ;)
 
CurrierPlastering said:
Ok just to clear this up, on a high suction background like celcons even with a prime hardwall and multi is ****. I know how to get a good finish im not a ******* re***d, all im saying is its a **** system and i was hoping that uni-finish would be like this magical finish called carlite that my old man always says was far far better the multi in that situation.

Mark CPI is a option, but pricey!

Now Mp75 finished properly is where it is at! However the uk seems to have this oview that its is not smooth enough! So it dont get speced
Click to expand...

currier can't plaster lol
 
Despite all the arguments Bout which materials too use and who can use them properly,it doesn't really matter what you use if you can't get a good enough finish.how can anyone say that a finish isn't considered good enough for people here.if it ain't smooth enough,then it ain't good enough.if you can't get a good enough finish with the products on the market then either invent a product or give up because you aren't good enough.maybe people should be happy with just painting hardwall in their houses.tosser.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Share this page

Back
Top